Amsoil SS 0w-30 1.4L Tur 2014 Chevy Cruz 20k OCI

[SubieBlue]

2nd Time around on BITOG. Joined back in 2004 but have been idle for last 8-9 years. Rejoined this month and still realize how great BITOG is for finding good input and experience about car health and oil performance. Used Amsoil 0w-30 SS at 50,000 and rode it up to 20k on the OCI. Replaced the cartridge filter every 5k and topped off (approx. 1/4 qt) with touch of same Ams SS oil. All told, just about 1 qt added for the duration with the filter change. Used K&N on the first 5k filter but switched back to Fram filter on remaining filter changes at 10k and 15k intervals. The silicon is a touch high as indicated but I think that might have came from the 2oz of Lubeguard Bio/Tech additive I added at the 10k mark. The VOA indicates this has a bit of silicon in it... so that is likely cause. Welcome thoughts on this one. Seems to be pretty good UOA by Blackstone. I drained and now added Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30 and will repeat same process ... although doubt I will add the Lubeguard Biotech additive this time.

 

[dblshock]

not bad how'd the UO look?

 

[SubieBlue]

Looked good on the dipstick and white paper towel. Looked normal dark brown as it was draining out of oil pan. So it looked decent, but know that is a pretty subjective and poor description of overall condition. I was tempted to go one more filter change and go to 25k ... but thought some other time. Maybe will do that on my older Honda's. Or perhaps go to 25k after I get another report in on this next go-round with PUP on 20k... then see what it tells me from the data.

 

[pbm]

Are you planning on running the PUP 20K? That was brave of you to run that little turbo 20K but Amsoil SS seemed to take it. I remember seeing UOAs (when I owned a Cruze 1.4T) that showed the oil beat up at 6 to 7K

 

[parshisa]

And i’m sitting here and thinking if I should change oil in my civic at 5,5K. Viscosity is too high for this oil. I belive older formula fresh 0w30 is around 11.

 

[SubieBlue]

I am. Since I have an EZ- Oil sample drain plug installed, I think I will pull another sample at the 10k mark and see how it looks. If it is as good then I will let it ride to 20k. My daughter’s Cruze has been a very reliable car thus far. Majority of miles is city driving with occasional highway mileage. Likely will be my last go at 20k. That will get the car to 90k overall. Will likely switch to Pennzoil Platinum HM and just go to 10k OCI for balance of ownership.

 

[Gubkin]

Oil is dead, Lab wrote increase interval. Crazy...

 

[4WD]

Originally Posted By: SubieBlue

2nd Time around on BITOG. Joined back in 2004 but have been idle for last 8-9 years. Rejoined this month and still realize how great BITOG is for finding good input and experience about car health and oil performance. Used Amsoil 0w-30 SS at 50,000 and rode it up to 20k on the OCI. Replaced the cartridge filter every 5k and topped off (approx. 1/4 qt) with touch of same Ams SS oil. All told, just about 1 qt added for the duration with the filter change. Used K&N on the first 5k filter but switched back to Fram filter on remaining filter changes at 10k and 15k intervals. The silicon is a touch high as indicated but I think that might have came from the 2oz of Lubeguard Bio/Tech additive I added at the 10k mark. The VOA indicates this has a bit of silicon in it... so that is likely cause. Welcome thoughts on this one. Seems to be pretty good UOA by Blackstone. I drained and now added Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30 and will repeat same process ... although doubt I will add the Lubeguard Biotech additive this time.

Plan to go that long on Pennzoil Platinum in the 1.4T … you should ask Pennzoil what they think of that …

 

[SubieBlue]

What's 0.92 amongest friends?

 

[camrydriver111]

Impressive run!

 

[gregk24]

You are braver than I sir. Looks like it took it ok though. Our Jetta has a 1.8 turbo and it gets a fresh oil change every 5K, especially since it sees very short trips 95% of the time.

 

[buster]

Oil held up well. Nice results. Look forward to the PUP results.

 

[JLTD]

Looks good! Oil in spec, wear below average for that engine.

Originally Posted By: Gubkin

Oil is dead..

How so?

 

[Gubkin]

Originally Posted By: JLTD

How so?

TBN < TAN

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted By: Gubkin

TBN < TAN

What is the TAN?

 

[Gubkin]

total acid number ~2,5 in fresh oil When should change oil

 

[irv]

Originally Posted By: kschachn

Originally Posted By: Gubkin

TBN < TAN

What is the TAN?

TBN readings really serve no purpose if TAN readings aren't also made available. Originally Posted By: SonofJoe Regarding TBN 'retention'... There's a story that's frequently peddled around the industry, that expensive, over based metallic Salicylate detergents are better on TBN retention than commoner and cheaper over based Sulphonates & Phenates. This may or may not be true but even if it is, I would dispute the fact that 'TBN retention' is a good thing. The primary purpose of this class of additive is to neutralise acids that build up in the oil and keep that neutralised 'stuff' suspended in the oil. If you have two oils of equal starting TBN and after x miles, under identical conditions, one oil has a lower TBN than the other, then in my book, it has done a BETTER job at zapping acidic species than the other oil. Think about it! Compare a busy man with an idle, blobby couch-potato. The latter might point to how superior he is in terms of 'shoe leather retention' but it's not the most meaningful of boasts is it? Thread with info within from Sonofjoe. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/469981

 

[Artem]

Originally Posted By: irv

Originally Posted By: kschachn

Originally Posted By: Gubkin

TBN < TAN

What is the TAN?

TBN readings really serve no purpose if TAN readings aren't also made available. Originally Posted By: SonofJoe Regarding TBN 'retention'... There's a story that's frequently peddled around the industry, that expensive, over based metallic Salicylate detergents are better on TBN retention than commoner and cheaper over based Sulphonates & Phenates. This may or may not be true but even if it is, I would dispute the fact that 'TBN retention' is a good thing. The primary purpose of this class of additive is to neutralise acids that build up in the oil and keep that neutralised 'stuff' suspended in the oil. If you have two oils of equal starting TBN and after x miles, under identical conditions, one oil has a lower TBN than the other, then in my book, it has done a BETTER job at zapping acidic species than the other oil. Think about it! Compare a busy man with an idle, blobby couch-potato. The latter might point to how superior he is in terms of 'shoe leather retention' but it's not the most meaningful of boasts is it? Thread with info within from Sonofjoe. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/469981

Well said. Definitely hard to decide what I want in an oil. Sure TBN retention sounds good on paper but if it ain't eating up the acid in its effort to retain said TBN for 20,000 miles then the oil ends up being acidic as can be at the end but still TBN leftover. LOL. Seems the best oil is an oil that is designed for a set interval and it goes to work 100% the entire time and is toast when it's designed to be toast and then you dump it in favor of fresh Lube and additives.

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted By: Artem

Well said. Definitely hard to decide what I want in an oil. Sure TBN retention sounds good on paper but if it ain't eating up the acid in its effort to retain said TBN for 20,000 miles then the oil ends up being acidic as can be at the end but still TBN leftover. LOL. Seems the best oil is an oil that is designed for a set interval and it goes to work 100% the entire time and is toast when it's designed to be toast and then you dump it in favor of fresh Lube and additives.

I don't understand what you're saying here. If there is acid entering the oil then it will deplete the TBN. When you test for the TBN you titrate it using an acid. Either it has neutralizing capability or it doesn't. Some engines deplete the buffer faster than others since they are depositing more acid per mile into the oil.

 

[irv]

Originally Posted By: kschachn

Originally Posted By: Artem

Well said. Definitely hard to decide what I want in an oil. Sure TBN retention sounds good on paper but if it ain't eating up the acid in its effort to retain said TBN for 20,000 miles then the oil ends up being acidic as can be at the end but still TBN leftover. LOL. Seems the best oil is an oil that is designed for a set interval and it goes to work 100% the entire time and is toast when it's designed to be toast and then you dump it in favor of fresh Lube and additives.

I don't understand what you're saying here. If there is acid entering the oil then it will deplete the TBN. When you test for the TBN you titrate it using an acid. Either it has neutralizing capability or it doesn't. Some engines deplete the buffer faster than others since they are depositing more acid per mile into the oil.

Not necessarily. Read Sonofjoe's comment again. Some TBN is better than others in this regard. Like he said, he would choose the oil that has a lower TBN based on the fact it is likely doing its job better. Another comment on it from another member. "Abstract Historically, the characterisation of fresh and used diesel engine lubricants has been based on a limited number of analytical techniques. One of the most important methods of analysis has been total base number (TBN) measurement. Although TBN measurements are informative, easy, and quick, it can be misleading to base the judgement of an oil's performance solely on one criterion. This paper offers some observations from a field test, showing that some detergent types gave unacceptable performance even though the TBNs were at an acceptable level. It is hypothesised that some detergents do not effectively neutralise all acidic species present in the lubricant, thereby reserving their own base, while in fact the oil may no longer provide sufficient protection against bearing corrosion. This hypothesis is supported by bench and engine test data. It is recommended that, at a minimum, total acid number (TAN) measurements be included in any analysis, and where time and cost permit, wear metals content, oxidation, soot content, and viscosity should also be evaluated."