Amsoil overkill if changed every 3 to 5K miles??

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I have about 1600 miles on my 07 Silverado 4.8. Around 5k I want to switch to sytnthetic BUT I feel maybe it's a waste of money since I'll change the oil roughly 3 to 5k miles. I was thinking of Amsoil but it's around 7.00 a quart. I do not doubt Amsoil going longer between changes BUT the oil will get dirty. My knowlege of oil is twofold, lubricate and clean the engine. After a few thousand I feel oil HAS to get dirty to show it's doing it's job, and after a while the dirty oil is just being circulated around the motor if not changed regulary. Thanks for any comments!!
Stash
 
Stash if you're that worried about the oil getting 'dirty' you could just install a bypass filter and then leave the amsoil in there for the rated time/mileage, which is like 25k/1yr for the primo HDD which I love. I'm sure pablo could tell you more.
 
Simply use Amsoil XL and change at the max GM specified OCI.

If your air intake system is well sealed and the air is well filtered, the main mechanism for oil getting dirty is degradation of the oil itself. Use a good oil and this worry is minimized.
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Stash!

Oil is two fold. Lubricant and coolant. I really feel that the filter is the "kidney" of your engine for catching the nasties. If it's doing it's job, that's half the battle. Oil filters and air filters are high on the "to do" list of keeping an engine clean. Bypass filters are also a way of getting out more than what a regular full flow oil filter would do. More time and bother, but they do work well.

Don't know where you're posting from... USA could be about anywhere. The reason I say this, is if you live in Fargo ND or Missoula MT your requirements may be a lot different than if you live in Dallas TX or Atlanta GA.

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It is understandable that given that you just spent a lot of $$$ on a new vehicle, that you want the best oil for it... It is also understandable that given the same situation, you want to change the oil at the correct interval to guarantee lifetime.

Both of those are fine, but you are correct, buying $7 oil for 5000 mile OCIs can be overkill, or in alternate terms, not the smart money choice. While there certainly is nothing wrong with doing such a thing, the worthwhile'ness' of it is questionable.

As far as I can see, there are two smart options:
-use a top-notch ($2.50/qt) conventional oil, either havoline, pennzoil or castrol GTX, and change it every 5000 miles or earlier if the computer tells you to. Verify OCIs with UIA

or

-run a high quality synthetic (amsoil or M1), run it until the computer tells you to change it (the first time), do a UOA, and let the professionals (Terry Dyson) tell you what kind of stretch you can comfortably and safely perform, given your usage and driving style. It may be an extra 1000 or it may be an extra 10000 miles... who knows without UOA testing.

Another midground option would be to pick a good 'fake' synthetic, or syn blend, like schaeffer's (top notch oil though it is a blend), valvoline maxlife, mobil clean 7500, pennzoil platinum, havoline synthetic, etc., and just run it until the computer tells you to change. This way youre changine more often, but throwing away less oil dollars, while at the same time utilizing an oil that is slightly more robust and caertainly more than capable of the usage interval.

For smart surity, Id suggest using LC in your oil, regardless of what you choose...

Good luck!

JMH
 
3-5k amsoil oil changes are serious overkill. I agree with the other posts. if you want syn and short oci, go with the cheaper synthetics. or use the syn-blends.
 
Been running 15k/1 yr service intervals with Amsoil for almost thirty years, with excellent long term results. Even the cheapest petroleum oil will last for 3k-5k miles, depending on conditions.

Much of what you see when petroleum oils turn "dirty" in a few thousand miles is simply the oil breaking down chemically due to heat(nitration) and oxidation (combining with oxygen to form insoluble polymers).

You can take a quart of petroleum oil, dump it in a saucepan, cook it on the stove and it will severely degrade and darken and generate varnish/carbon deposits - without any dirt in it at all but its' intrinsic impurities. Do this with the best PAO/Ester synthetics and they just sit there and barely change color.

TS
 
THANKS!! for all your replies!!.

I am in CNY and it gets very cold here at times in the winter.
Also I do many short trips, most 2 miles or so. I am worried about cold-startup with dino oil vs synthetic.

Thanks stash
 
I guess i look at it this way it's your $$ if you want to
use ams at that OCI go for it,

i run my M1 to 3k then sometimes 8k depending when i
have time to change it,and i always sleep good at night..$.02
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Consider Pennzoil Platinum (Group III syn), $18.97/5qt-jug ($3.80/qt) at Wally World last time I checked, and use the GM Oil Life Monitor (OLM). It'll compliment warranty requirements, and easily go the distance provided by the OLM, which is calibrated for non-synthetic SM/GF-4.
 
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