Amsoil or PP

[addyguy]

No offence, Stevie, but you're over-thinking this a bit. With a modern engine, driven almost all long-distance highway cruising, you could use whatever dino oil you find on sale, change it every 6k miles, and the car would make 500k km.

But, you asked about using synthetics, as this is what you are comfortable with.

IF you like Amsoil, and IF you are near a distribution center, I'd go with Amsoil's 'XL' line of oils, and keep changing at 6k miles intervals. You'd get the protection you want, and save yourself soem money in the process. Ever used the XL?

 

[StevieC]

Addyguy... Thanks for your opinion. No offense taken. Thats why I started this thread... I wanted all opinions... I'm pretty sure I was on the right track but wanted to know what everyone thought.

I would use Dino oil except I'm worried about sludging and because I live near Hamilton where the temps get super cold in the winter and when I was using Mobil-1 I would get lifter tapping for the first 30 seconds...

Just want the best out of my engine... Kinda a "Look what I did" thing!

 

[Liquid_Turbo]

How about taking the SSO route and changing once a year?

48,000kms/yr still falls within 35,000mi/yrs.. and with all the highway driving, shouldn't it be very easy on the oil?

A bit edge-y.. but anyone think this could be feasible?

 

[StevieC]

Liquid_Turbo... I'm scared to go this long until I can figure out what the high Silicon / Sodium is caused by... No coolant, but very weird...

Trust me, if I don't have to crawl under the vehicle I would rather not.

 

[OVERKILL]

Nothing wrong with Mobil 1.
Nothing wrong with Amsoil.
Nothing wrong with PP either.

Use what you feel comfortable with. None of them are going to kill your engine.

 

[StevieC]

OVERK1LL... Not about killing the engine, any oil won't do that. Ok, most oils won't do that... but what will keep it running for many many miles...

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Nothing wrong with Mobil 1.
Nothing wrong with Amsoil.
Nothing wrong with PP either.

Use what you feel comfortable with. None of them are going to kill your engine.


All good oils, and good replies by others. Your car will probably fall apart, get wrecked, or stolen, long before it will die of an oil related failure. Ask me how I know..... Especially with the good job you've done maintaining it so far.....

Frank D

 

[StevieC]

Well I guess I have to ask... How do you know? My other vehicles have made it to 300,000 KM but burning oil and just barely... That's why I want 500K without this stuff... Trying to prove it can be done!

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: StevieC
OVERK1LL... Not about killing the engine, any oil won't do that. Ok, most oils won't do that... but what will keep it running for many many miles...




My Mustang engine probably endures more abuse in a week than your engine will endure it's entire lifetime. It has 330,000Km on it, a good percentage of which has been on varying grades of Mobil 1.

I have posted pics of what it looks like under the valve covers on here. No discernible bore wear, spotless lifter valley, spotless heads. To me, Mobil 1 is a top-notch product, and the internals of my engine prove that to me.

 

[StevieC]

Appreciated...

 

[addyguy]

Not to beat a drum, Stevie, but what are your thoughts on Amsoils 'XL' line of oils? Seem to be a good compromise between protection and price, if you're insisting on 6k mile changes.

If you ever DO get more comfortable with longer changes, I'd even look into using the HDD 5w30. There ARE several UOAS's on this board of this oil going around 25k miles with no filter change, and doing just fine....

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: StevieC
Well I guess I have to ask... How do you know? My other vehicles have made it to 300,000 KM but burning oil and just barely... That's why I want 500K without this stuff... Trying to prove it can be done!


Possibly all that is needed is an A-Rx treatment as per directions and a 4 oz maint dose to keep them going to your 500K goal. I have a 200,000 mile goal I'm trying to hit with my 93 Aerostar, and I have a feeling the floor is going to rot out before I hit my target.


I guess that's what sparked my reply

Frank D

 

[hate2work]

Originally Posted By: addyguy
Not to beat a drum, Stevie, but what are your thoughts on Amsoils 'XL' line of oils? Seem to be a good compromise between protection and price, if you're insisting on 6k mile changes.

If you ever DO get more comfortable with longer changes, I'd even look into using the HDD 5w30. There ARE several UOAS's on this board of this oil going around 25k miles with no filter change, and doing just fine....


Really? Please show them to me, I'd like to see them.

I haven't really been able to find ANY UOAs that have shown ANY oil to go 25k with good numbers. That includes the top of the line offering from Amsoil, the SSO 0w-30. Most are within the 5k to 14k range, many of those with enough make up oil to skew the numbers.

 

[Liquid_Turbo]

Originally Posted By: StevieC
Liquid_Turbo... I'm scared to go this long until I can figure out what the high Silicon / Sodium is caused by... No coolant, but very weird...

Trust me, if I don't have to crawl under the vehicle I would rather not.


In that case, SSO change twice a year with EAO filter probably sounds fine for your application. Nothing to be scared of. Do you have original numbers? Perhaps leaking air intake or need a new air filter?

4,000k /month for 6 months is 24,000km.

That number sounds feasible with 100% all highway miles with SSO changes 2x a year.

As others have said.. at 500,000kms you'd probably have to worry about other things failing than any oil related failure.....

 

[StevieC]

Thanks for your input... I have tried the XL stuff and it was great, wear numbers were good, but it made the lifters noisy in the winter time.

 

[StevieC]

My last car was (before this job) was an '86 Dodge Caravan that had the hated 2.6 litre Mitsubishi engine and I managed to get 400,000 km out of it by using Synthetic oil, and keeping it rust proofed every year.

It went to the scrap yard with the A/C still working and the body in almost new shape but the cylinder head cracked for the 3rd time and it was burning oil pretty bad so I just gave up on trying to service it and went to a dealer. I mean after 20 years I think I did ok!

I intend on repeating that with my current SUV and hitting 500K with a better designed engine.

 

[Steve S]

Study up on cars with high mileage and you will find that it is not the oil used it is how it is driven. Cars that have few warm up cycles per miles driven are the cars that the engine "bar mechanical problems" live the longest for example taxi cabs, cars that do long commutes. Over the road trucks out live the same powertrain by 2x+ compared to local delivery service. currior vehicles etc. How do I know this ? I spent 23 years working on fleets of vehicles, Forklifts ,tractors,semi trucks,vans ,pickup trucks cars . I met a currior that ran Amsoil oil and filters and changed the oil at 25,000 miles and got almost 500,000 miles on the Nissan pickup .The Nissan pickup still ran good when the Amsoil jobber bought it form him..

 

[Steve S]

P.S. did the Mitsu head crack between the valves? I have seen the 2.6 engines overheated so bad that couple of the valve seats fell out, which made the driver stop driving and all we did was pull the head send it out to get repaires put it back together and no other damage was done to the engine .I have seem the problem. Those engines can last a long time.

 

[StevieC]

Steve_S My Mitsu cracked each time between the two innner cylinder sections of the head, and always where the anti-freeze flowed through. My Dad who is a mechanic of 35 years got tired of ripping off the Carb, the Timin Chain and all the other stuff to take the head off. It was a PITA. I miss that van. Always started in the winter, passed the emission tests and never let us down. It sure did burn lots of oil by the end though... Almost a quart per tank of gas!