Amsoil in Engine and Diffs Increase fuel economy?

[Doug Hillary]

Hi,
Johnny - Yes, remember it's near Xmas!!!!!!

Ranger - I won't comment on the word "Amsoil" in your 1) and 2) - I will get accused of bias - one way or another!

As for your 3) regarding Castrol RX Super 15w40 - you can go out to the Manufacturers's recommended OCI with confidence. If you suspect fuel dilution then simply do some blotter tests each 1000km or so - any "blotter" will do, I just use "Kleenex" untreated paper towels

Ranger - Whereabouts are you in OZ?

 

[lone_Ranger]

Hello Doug,
I am located on the Sunshine Coast in Qld. I am the Director of Bushtracker, the 4x4 off-road caravan Builder. If you could see fit, please comment on questions 1 and 2 via email to me at [email protected] I appreciate the feedback. No one is the Gospel save 1 and he will not talk to me regarding the oil..

But a weighted consensus of experts like yourself is useful, when the real time tests are so time consuming...

I do the Research for free, and post results on our Forum, again for free at http://www.bushtrackerownersforum.com

Thank you, Steven Gibbs, aka lone Ranger because I travel with horses more than not,
Director, Bushtracker

 

[Doug Hillary]

Hi,
Stephen - to ensure that nobody feels I may "rubbish" a good product like Amsoil's are behind the scenes I can make the following comments on your 1) and 2)

No specific engine lubricant when compared with another meeting the same specifications will perform significantly "better".

It is wise to compare mineral to mineral and etc - some semi-synthetic lubricants perform at least as well as the "older" synthetic formulations

Brands to a large degree are immaterial - it is the specification that matters most of all!

As you can see I live in Airlie Beach. I drive to Brisbane to see my "kids" once in a while and often stay at Tewantin or Pelican Waters. I'll call you next time I'm in the area

You can PM me via BITOG if you wish

 

[sprintman]

Welcome. I use syn lubes in all three vehicles. Castrol in the Mazda 626 transaxle and Redline in the diff/g'boxes/p/s in the Outback and BMW. The BMW computer noticed the change to RL and economy improved. RL say 3% improvement for the diff and 3% for g'box. The improved heat handling is a bonus not to mention syncro's that work far better. I believe Amsoil would do just as well.

 

[Jim Allen]

I feel a bit underqualified to comment after these great, authoritative posts.... but I'm cheeky enough to do so anyway!

Here's one point I didn't see made, and one I proved for myself recently: Your gains, if any, will be reflective of what replaced what. If you are exchanging an "ordinary" mineral oil for a good synthetic, for example, you could see a few percent gain. A syn for a syn, probably not.Beyond that, I think Pablo is right, the gains are hidden in all the variables.

 

[BoiseRob]

The other thing is are the savings "significant" enough to offset the additional cost of the Amsoil?

Rob

 

[Steelhead]

Grp IV or V lubes for the differentials front and rear, transfer cases and transmissions.
need the extra heat protection, shock load and hvy tow loads on your back woods travels. put on extra capacity diff covers with magnetic drain plugs. have your mech. check every 10k miles for lube breakdown and any metal cuttings
can't beat Amsoil Severe Gear or Caltrex Synstar GL

quality brand name mineral dino engine oils changed often for the severe service low speed high dust use environment, 3k mile OCI is not too often for long engine life under those circumstances. the major local suppliers may be the best price, check barrel prices.
synthetic motor oil offers no better dust injection protection. air intake systems and filters get damaged off road. oil is far cheaper than blow engines

where you go is no place to break down with a rig.

 

[LargeCarManX2]

Originally Posted By: BoiseRob
The other thing is are the savings "significant" enough to offset the additional cost of the Amsoil?

Rob


Only if you run it to it's limit. The others are catching up quickly! Significant? NO!

 

[Zoridog]

I changed to Amsoil 20W50 in my daily commuter motorcycle this past summer. Taking the same route every day for 6 months and using the same brand gasoline I experienced no difference in mileage. In fact, there was a 1-2 mpg drop in mileage for the first 1000 miles.

Regarding improved cooling, my radiator fan comes on at the exact same place in my commute with dino and AMSOIL. I don't have a gauge but for all practical purposes, I don't see an advantage in engine cooling.

Next season, I intend to use a diesel 15W40.

 

[Strjock81]

I have experienced zero measurable difference in mileage using Amsoil gear lubes in my truck in combination with Schaeffer's syn in the engine. Doesn't mean I dont like it--fewer oil changes and superior protection is always good.

 

[chrometip78]

FWIW,

94 Geo Tracker 16v 5spd manual 4WD: 3-5mpg better when I switched the transmission, transfer case, and diffs to synthetic. Expected it to get better when I switched the engine over to synthetic, but it only helped me maintain the 5mpg increase. No viscosity changes.

98 Toyota Rav4 4cyl 4spd auto AWD: switched over drivetrain to synthetics expecting the same increase in MPG, only got 2-3, haven't switched the engine yet. No viscosity changes. My girlfriend can manage to get terrible gas mileage no matter what I do to this car, she always has a foot pressing on the gas or brake pedal.

97 Jeep Cherokee 6cyl 4spd auto 4WD: Switched over all fluids to synthetic, got 3mpg. Put on taller (2"), more aggressive tires, 2" lift and dropped me back down to 1-2mpg increase. Put Rotella straight 30 (for additives) and didn't notice any difference from the syn 10w30. No other viscosity changes.

I check my mileage every fill up and drive very consistently, tring to let the vehicle accellerate rather than push it. I think it is very easy to use up any efficiency gained by synthetics, tune-ups, etc in driving style. Most just press the pedal down and let the vehicle catch up.

Also, I have tried extremely hard to get the Jeep's mileage better through driving style and haven't managed to get any better than responsible driving can yield. I think it's either the auto transmission that doesn't respond as well to driving/fluid efficiency or that the 6cyl engine isn't as affected by drivetrain efficiency as the 4cyl's are.

 

[Johnny]

You figure out a way to get better mpg out of the Jeep, let me know. My Wrangler is synthetic from front to back, even the grease. Gas mileage still sucks.

 

[chrometip78]

No kidding and Cherokees are the aerodynamic Jeep

, can't beleive I was hoping to get 15-16 out of my Wrangler once I'm done building my stroker. Now I'll be happy if I can get 12 out of the lifted brick on 37's (started as a mild build).

What weight oil are you running in your 4.0, I can't decide between a 15-40, straight 30, or 10-40 (only considering Amsoil, Rotella, or Delo). I don't think there would be much fuel economy difference between them and I'm more concerned about staying with a HDEO for the additives.

 

[Johnny]

Right now I am using the AMSOIL Signature Series 0w30 in the engine. I have Severe Gear 75W-90 in the front and rear differentials, and Amsoil ATF in the transmission and transfer case. I use their GHD grease for the front suspension. Right now I'm averaging right at 16 mpg. The worst I have gotten was 13 and the best I have gotten is 18.


By the way,

to BITOG.

Are you in California or Canada?

 

[chrometip78]

Appreciate the welcome, from Sacramento/California, been watching the forums for a couple years before I finally decided to join. Think I was a little self conscious since 18yrs ago my parents used to tease me about being fanatical with the oil I ran in my motorcycles and continued with into my cars. Never met anyone else who gave serious thought to it and now I'm with a whole group of us. Funny part is, I told my dad about the site and now he's been checking it out. Serves him right since he got me hooked on vehicle performance, he's an old so-cal motorhead from the Beachboys/Jan&Dean days.

Back on topic: What do you guys think synthetic gear oils ability to handle shock. I don't know if these properties have anything to do with the base stock or the add's going in. Reason I ask is, years ago I put Amsoil gear oil 75-90 (before severe gear) in my S-10 after I had 20k on it and at 170k, the bearing race on an axle shaft began coming apart. Not saying dino would have done better but I took it pretty easy on the truck and the rest of it was still really tight. Couple other things to throw in the mix are that the lighter Chevy axles are on the flimsy side and that I used the truck to commute over an elevated freeway for years with a lot of poor expansion joints.

Also, I am currently running Amsoil ATF and Severe Gear 75w-110 in the Cherokee and Rav4 diff's, guess I lied about no other viscosity changes

in my previous post. Again, was just worried about their ability to handle shock.

 

[Johnny]

I believe the Amsoil Severe Gear line of products could handle just about anything you could put them through. Check out this website.

http://www.lovellrockracing.com/

I have had extensive conversations with these two brothers. It does not get much more severe that this. Read the website, look at all of the videos in the media section to see what these guys do.

 

[muffinstew]

I too, have always been intrested in seeing the results when full synthetics are added to each drivetrain component of any vehicle. Converting each component to a synthetic lubricant would be quite expensive especially an automatic transmisson that holds roughly 15 quarts like a 4l60E. So my question is, which one component in a typical 4x4 drivetrain would yield the best MPGs by switching to a syn. lubriant? Axles, transmission, t-case, or engine? My guess would be the axles because they see the most friction?? Just a hunch.

 

[Johnny]

I would agree.

 

[Doug Hillary]

Hi,
muffinstew - Typically, your guess would be accurate