Amsoil BMK 13 with Accusump

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If I wanted an Amsoil bypass filter I would go with the bmk-11 or some other setup that has its own independent high and low pressure connections to the engine not a dual remote unit, even though the standalone units are harder to install. the dual units will drastically reduce the oil pressure to the engine! Because both where they get oil from and where they send oil back to is high pressure they have to restrict the Full flow filter to get differential pressure to make oil flow through the bypass filter

see the page 4 and subsequent of the Oil filter tests


the accumulator looks neat you pre-oil the engine before start with one of those?

http://www.accusump.com/

only problem I see is you have to over fill the motor or it will run low when the accusump is filled, more oil quanity always helps otherwise

[ October 24, 2003, 05:03 AM: Message edited by: RavenTai ]
 
Thanks for the headup. I am new to this forum and know very little about oil. This is my very first message. Any suggestions are greately appreciated.

Overfill the engine oil would be bad for the engine, right? Unless the accusump will pick up the excessive oil. I wonder how does accusump know what is the proper oil pressure for my engine since each eagine is different? Can accusump be pre-loaded with oil? How would the oil in the accusump be drained during an oil change?

I read the Amsoil web site. From a diagram it looks like BMK 11's by-pass oil filter draws oil from the oil pressure sending unit. Does this setup still keep the factory oil pressure sending unit without affecting the engine's ability to read oil pressure?
 
“Overfill the engine oil would be bad for the engine, right?”

I would think so, I have been reading their site and apparently the excess oil normally stays in the accumulator except for startup, so when you start first you open the valve on the accusump and it dumps its stored pressurized oil into the oil galleys to the bearings lifters etc, this stored oil will eventually make its way to the pan witch was already at proper level now you have introduced more oil, IF the level gets high enough that the crank will hit it on start it may cause foaming, weather or not it will hit would depend on witch accusump you got (1,2,or 3 qt) and how much extra room in in your pan before it reaches crank level, not sure where you would find such info? but the oil pump is going to put out pressure and start putting that excess oil back in the accumulator shortly after start, even if it doe hit for a short perion maybe it will be OK?? there is another problem wile the pump is refilling the accumulator, what about the engine? yea it was pre oiled but now it is not getting all of the oil pumps flow? The oil pump is relieving a lot at cold start any way so a good bit of that is oil that would have been been relieved anyway but who knows in what amount?

"I wonder how does accusump know what is the proper oil pressure for my engine since each eagine is different?"


I am not specifically familiar with that accusump setup but I m familiar with accumulators in hydraulic systems and pressure tanks in well systems this is the same concept, it is a cylinder with 2 chambers one with air, one with oil separated by a piston. on hydraulic accumulators the pressure on the air side when the system pressure is 0 (all fluid pushed out) is called precharge you would adjust it in relation to how much oil pressure you have, in a 3,000 psi system precharge is is often 1,000 psi, probably similar relations between precharge and oil pressure here

“Can accusump be pre-loaded with oil?"

I don't think it would be easy to pre load it you would just use the engine oil pump to fill it on the first start after it was installed (that woudld be a long dry start)


How would the oil in the accusump be drained during an oil change?”

open the valve with the engine off the air will push out the oil into the oil galleys and from the it will drain to the pan where you can drain it (another long dry start after that also)


if I were to set up one of these accumulators I would plumb it into the oil port on the side of my block. this is post filter and oil cooler (the filters ADBV will help prevent back flow when pre oiling) just before it goes to the oil pressure sending unit and the oil galleys that way it is filled with filtered cooled oil, that valve is something that would be easy to forget about on shutdown leaving you with nothing for the next start so I would get the electric valve and wire it to ignition so when you turn it off it closes and traps a full accumulator of oil (might have to rev right before shutdown to get uit full of full oil pressure) then next start just move to key on engine off the valve will open wait foe the pre-oil and then go to start no switch to worry about


“I read the Amsoil web site. From a diagram it looks like BMK 11's by-pass oil filter draws oil from the oil pressure sending unit. Does this setup still keep the factory oil pressure sending unit without affecting the engine's ability to read oil pressure?”

yes you keep your factory oil pressure transmitter, it should not affect its reading, but as crashes would point out under certain circumstances (mainly idle) the portion of oil that you are bypassing filtering is oil that is not getting to the engine (still better than the dual units the limit all the time)

read this whole thread:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=001029

remember plenty of cars get 300,000 miles on just regular dino oil changed every 3k no special systems required this is defiantly way overkill
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[ October 24, 2003, 10:03 AM: Message edited by: RavenTai ]
 
quote:

but as crashes would point out under certain circumstances (mainly idle) the portion of oil that you are bypassing filtering is oil that is not getting to the engine (still better than the dual units the limit all the time)

To account for this you need to add oil to make up the difference in volumn that the bypass takes. For thes set up below I added 2 extra qts, so I have 7 qts total.

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[ October 24, 2003, 12:00 PM: Message edited by: Mike ]
 
From the picture of previous message I notice the tubes are made of rubber. Wouldn't steel braided tubes be more reliable and long lasting? How long will the factory supplied rubber tubes last?
 
quote:

Originally posted by sifan:
From the picture of previous message I notice the tubes are made of rubber. Wouldn't steel braided tubes be more reliable and long lasting? How long will the factory supplied rubber tubes last?

Keep in mind that your power steering lines are also this same type of hydraulic line. Once again, cars go 300k miles without and problems.

Many Ford F-150's and older Chevy S-10 Blazers also have this type of hydraulic line for stock oil filter relocations. The fitting on the Amsoil unit seem to be of a higher quality than the stock ones used by the automotive manufacturers.

Yes, SS braided line would be better, but usually isn't needed except for appearance purposes.
 
quote:

Originally posted by sifan:
From the picture of previous message I notice the tubes are made of rubber. Wouldn't steel braided tubes be more reliable and long lasting? How long will the factory supplied rubber tubes last?

I thought so too, so I went out to buy them. When I was told the price I decided the rubber will work just fine. I think it was $8 a foot.
 
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