Ambient temperature vs. engine temperature

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And Gary Allen, you should know that up until more recent years in the U.S., our manuals also had the "up the viscosity with temperature" charts in the manuals.

Sure. I've seen a few in my time. Group 1 oils 3000 OCI's as the max...perhaps 5000 when unleaded fuel came around. Much has changed since then.

I suspect in most cases, there is good reason for this. Sure. There may still be.

Then suddenly, only pretty much in the U.S, these charts disappeared. Yes. This was surely due to energy policy ..but I don't think that this mandates that there is some deficiency in the specs that we currently have (yes, some exceptions apply). Otherwise we would not have 20 year old beaters still road worthy and would not routinely get 150-200k out of common passenger cars. These cars didn't just slip through the cracks in this energy policy. Oils were developed to get the job done. They do.

Gary, aren't the engines pretty much exactly the same anyway whether they are a 1.8T Volkswagen, 2.0 Mazda MZR, 1.6 Honda, etc running in Japan, Australia, Europe, U.S.?

I would assume so.


Why have their manuals for the exact same engines kept the temperature charts but the U.S. ones have not? In fact, even the exact same engines in the US had the chart on year and then it disappered on next years model year.


There could be several issues at play here. For example, in Australia, you can barely find a 30 weight oil ..yet I'm sure that their climate norms can be match somewhere in the US. Again, I keep looking for the massive failures of our engines. They just aren't giving up the ghost with all this numb abuse. How's that possible
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With this reasoning in mind, your insinuation that that the manufacturers don't think ambient temperature should play a role in optimal viscosity selection for US cars is quite wrong.

Welp, I think that they do ..and I think that in most cases it isn't enough of a factor for them to mandate a heavier oil. Now we're a little more anal about things here ..so we're always going to exceed the need a good bit.

I think you knew this Gary cause you're too smart not to,

Well, I'll accept that you think that I'm smart enough to figure this out ..and it's not that I necessarily disagree with the assertion that ambient temps effect oil temps .. but it doesn't appear to alter any behaviors from our vast membership. You can live in Texas and use a 5w-30 ..you can live in Canada and use a 5w-30 (the cow and the horse example - both exist on the same diet - flawed, yes ..but it works)

So I'll stand with Ugly3's assertion that unless you're towing or are inducing some undue or abnormal stress to your engine (either in severity or duration of insult), there is no need to alter your visocity for higher ambeint temperatures. That is, unless you integrate the practice of doing something like going from a 10w-30 in the summer and switching to a 5w or 0w-30 in the winter as "moving up" for the warmer weather.

you were just playing devil's advocate

Naturally. So?
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The difference in temps has alot to do with heat exchange from a radiator. we might not notice a difference. Towing a heavy load on a hot day you will notice a big difference. Most people probably never operate their cars at more than minimum power output. Look at the guys oil temps who race their cars and post their oil temps.
 
FWIW, in the wintertime my C5 Corvette shows about 200-205 oil temps at a steady 70mph on the highway. In 90 degree weather I see closer to 210-215F. My coolant temp on the highway is always in the 190-192F range no matter whether it's bone chilling cold or extremely hot outside.
 
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In other words, it's not going to be any hotter inside a warmed up engine if it's 100 degrees outside or 30 degrees outside, because the thermostat will keep it in the right temperature range, provided the engine's not overheating.

Maybe not a whole lot of difference when you're engine is warmed up....But when ambient temps are 100 degrees startup flow isn't an issue like it would be when it's below freezing outside...Remember that when it's hot out the pavement reflecting heat up to your oil pan is even hotter while rolling...Heavier weight oils in general have better HTHS numbers (all things being equal) just like light weight oils have better flow characteristics in cold temps.

When it's warm out and if your main concern is having that extra bit of protection, there's no real good reason not to use a heavier weight oil...Unless that extra bit of protection (higher HTHS) doesn't concern you. No your motor probably won't explode because you use a 5W30 in the summer, but the extra margin of protection may be just right for your mental comfort zone.


If it's cold outside and the ability for an oil to get to those critical engine parts as fast as possible is your main concern then go lighter...But I'm sure your engine isn't going to explode if you use a 10W30.


There's a tradeoff...Slightly better gas mileage and extreme cold startup with light weight oils (warm ambient temps negate startup) vs. slightly better wear protection with heavier weights.


If it's hot out go heavier and benefit from better HTHS...If it's super cold go light and ease your cold startup concerns.


Denying a heavier weights higher HTHS advantages in hot weather is like denying the advantages of 0W30's ability to flow better in cold weather.

This "light weight is better under all cicumstances" mentality is laughable.

[ July 18, 2005, 06:55 AM: Message edited by: sands ]
 
Personally, wear protection is my main concern so I choose the oil that performs that function best for a particular driving condtition...Light and heavy oils both have their advantages in applicable driving conditions.
 
from what I can tell by looking at the my oil temp gauge, oil temperature depends purely on the load you put on the engine...

sure if it is hot outside it will take shorter time to reach operating temp...oil temp will then stay arround 212F for normal highway cruising...when you get in 90+ mph teritory it will get close to 250F
 
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Originally posted by zoomzoom:
from what I can tell by looking at the my oil temp gauge, oil temperature depends purely on the load you put on the engine...

sure if it is hot outside it will take shorter time to reach operating temp...oil temp will then stay arround 212F for normal highway cruising...when you get in 90+ mph teritory it will get close to 250F


I had a motorcycle that the oil temperature was so closely tied to ambient temperature that I could use it for an air temperature thermometer. At 70 mph cruise on level ground, the oil temp ran 150F abouve air temperature. That's partly because it was an air/oil cooled engine

In my car, putting out the same amount of power at 50 mph as at 100 mph results in higher oil temperature. That's because of less air flow over the oil pan at the lower speed.
 
The engine coolant thermostat does not maintain a constant coolant temp. It is only capable of maintaining a minimum temp. The rest of the job is done by the cooling fan. Each engines' cooling system works differently. Cooling the engine is accomplished in 3 main areas: Liquid coolant (duh), oil and air cooling. Yes folks the car companies tried to screw you again. The ratio of how much cooling each of the 3 parts does is different from every model engine and even aplication.

Now you would you run 5w20 if you had a stop and go commute in this weather?LINK ?
 
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Originally posted by jtantare:

Now you would you run 5w20 if you had a stop and go commute in this weather?LINK ?


I wouldn't, but I'm sure some of the 0W-20 diehards would.

When was the last time there was stop and go traffic in NeedLess
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Originally posted by XS650:


When was the last time there was stop and go traffic in NeedLess
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Every friday in the summer when half of LA decided to hop on interstate 15 and go to Las Vegas for the weekend.
 
"The engine coolant thermostat does not maintain a constant coolant temp. It is only capable of maintaining a minimum temp. The rest of the job is done by the cooling fan."

Thermostats seem move a small amount for opening and closing, and they block a big hole. Perhaps the flow is still adequate so that when open the thermostat is not the limiting factor, but it seems like it still is. The last one that I took out of the older Taurus tended to run hot, staying past 12:00 on the gage and often getting kind of close the maximum 'normal' indicator, while the new one runs cool, being close to the minimum 'normal' indicator while cruising and only getting to 12:00 after climbing hills or doing a lot of low speed driving.

An electric thermostat seem like it'd work better, or at least one that would be adjustable. Anything better than two bolts on the housing breaking while while changing it.
 
Your oil temp will be hotter, and get hotter quicker, in summer.
Unless you have excessive oil temps, there is no reason to get a thicker oil.
IMO, excessive would be 250F and above.
 
Even if you have excessive oil temperatures, the cure is an oil cooler (or a bigger one) and not a thicker oil.

BTW: a set of data points:

Car 1995 Ferrari F355B: condition: constant throttle cruising at various speeds: ambient temperature between 95dF and 103dF sunny, no clouds in the sky: A/C was on for the duration: Oil 5W-40 RL

Speed Water oil
...40 ..203 215
...50 ..201 207
...60 ..195 199
...70 ..182 182
...80 ..182 182
...90 ..182 182
..100 ..182 182
..110 ..182 182
..120 ..182 182

All speeds were held for 5 minutes before reading the temperature guages. The Thermostats are supposed to open at 185dF. So, at least, here is a car that does not have its oil temp rise with rising (cruise) speeds. Indeed, you really have to run the snot out of it to get the oil temp to move (or sit in traffic idling).

Now before you get to the point where you ask where you can drive this fast; let me just say that there is this road between Taos NM and Clayton NM that is 86 miles long. Including the speeding ticket and driving the last 10 miles at the speed limit with a cop behind me, I still beat the posted limit (60 MPH) by 15 minutes over that 86 miles...
 
Take a look at the basic heat transfer equation....

The main parameter that determines the rate of heat transfer is the temperature differential (Delta T) between oil temp and the ambient air temp.

Let's assume the nominal lubricant temps are close to a typical coolant thermostat temp of 190F.

On a 10F day, you'd have a Delta T of 180F...
On a 100F day, you'd have a Delta T of 90F...

So the rate of "convective" (through the air) heat transfer between the oil pan - and the air rushing over it - would be twice as high in the wintertime and your equilibrium oil temps would be reduced accordingly. In other words, the oil being pumped back through the engine would start out significantly cooler....

I eagerly await my test score from 1911...
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quote:

Originally posted by XS650:

quote:

Originally posted by jtantare:

Now you would you run 5w20 if you had a stop and go commute in this weather?LINK ?


I wouldn't, but I'm sure some of the 0W-20 diehards would.

When was the last time there was stop and go traffic in NeedLess
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Your depriving yourself. Just think of the fun you could have when you take your Fix Or Repair Daily vehicle back to the service manager and ask him to turn around and bend over so you can stick your 5w20 receipts in the proper disposal receptacle.
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Just Kiddin'

Remember the Sequence IIIG engine tests. Unless your oil temps get up to 250F plus on a regular basis, I wouldn't worry about it.
 
Oil temp and oil pressure are inversely related....

The main issue with excessive oil temps is failure to maintain hydrodynamic, ie "full flow" lubrication in the main/rod/cam bearings and between the rings and the cylinder walls....this is also the main reason for the ACEA "A3/B4" requirement of HT/HS of at least 3.5 Cp, vs the SAE requirement of 2.9 Cp for a 30wt.

The Sequence IIIG test is primarily used to evaluate high temp oxidative thickening, oil consumption, deposit formation and valve train wear - not bearing wear.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Mitch Alsup:
Now before you get to the point where you ask where you can drive this fast; let me just say that there is this road between Taos NM and Clayton NM that is 86 miles long. Including the speeding ticket and driving the last 10 miles at the speed limit with a cop behind me, I still beat the posted limit (60 MPH) by 15 minutes over that 86 miles...

That's a good story. Many years ago I was driving on I-40 between Albuquerque and Amarillo with the cruise control set on 100 mph when I looked in my rear view mirror and couldn't believe my eyes! There was a guy in a 18-wheeler who I passed awhile back who had caught up with me and was matching my speed! Wanting to have a clear view way back behind me I had to take it up to 140 mph for about 5 minutes to get rid of him.
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