Alternative for Lexus Toyota WS
- Thread starter Joephu
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You will like it. I've been using it, and honestly the shifting is crisp and quick as you would expect from a Lexus 6 speed. Keep us posted ðŸ‘ðŸ»
Originally Posted by AzFireGuy79
Originally Posted by RoyFJ
WS compatible fully synthetic and made by AISIN
Too bad we can't get that in the US. I'm sure it's great stuff ðŸ‘ðŸ»
Made a huge difference to the shifting characteristic of the A750 on the FJ. Shifts are imperceptible even when transmission is in traffic on a hot day.
Originally Posted by RoyFJ
WS compatible fully synthetic and made by AISIN
Too bad we can't get that in the US. I'm sure it's great stuff ðŸ‘ðŸ»
Made a huge difference to the shifting characteristic of the A750 on the FJ. Shifts are imperceptible even when transmission is in traffic on a hot day.
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Hello, Interested if a member has experience using Redline D6ATF (uses a Group IV/V base stock for better thermal stability and better film strength) in 2006 - 2013 Lexus IS 350 (6-speed Aisin A760E automatic transmission, RWD) instead of the OEM Toyota 00289-ATFWS trans fluid.
Hi, I have used Redline D6 to great success:
A couple weeks ago my fathers RX 350 (U660E) trans suddenly began slipping badly, and would not even engage reverse. This is after going 280k KM on the original fluid and filter, despite my constant advice to have it replaced. Long story short, we got Redline D6 ATF as a subsittute for Toyota WS since it was not readily available and a new filter and had it all changed on a local shop. We only got around 3-4 qts of original fluid left, burnt beyond belief and the filter was absolutely done. As soon as the fluid and filter change was done the car started shifting like new no problem whatsoever, and has been going strong ever since (Around 1.5k KM).
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Improkap, thank you for the follow up! I appreciate your time and doing so. Is the filter on the EX 350 a "non-serviceable" part similar to the filter / strainer installed in the 2006 - 2013 IS 350 (A760E 6-speed transmission)?
Where are you obtaining the film strength values for comparing the Redline oil vs. the Toyota fluid?
That's amazing. Almost sounds like the Redline corrected a mechanical issue with the transmission.
I think so. We changed it regardless on advice from our mechanic (He used to be a Mercedes-Benz Transmission Tech in Germany). It was like $30 for the filter and a new gasket. Last week I purchased a 2009 IS 250 (A960E) with 68K Miles and he suggested the same threatment, so I guess it's best to change the filter despite what Lexus says, especially since it's pretty cheap. I will probably use Redline D6 as well since it worked fine on my fathers RX wich calls for the same "WS" fluid.
According to our mechanic we where very lucky. It seems it started acting up because of low fluid level plus a clogged filter rather than mechanical damage, he suggested doing a fluid and filter change before looking to rebuild or getting a new trans (what the dealer suggested) since there was a chance it was just that. He saved us a ton of cash, the man knows his stuff.
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Information was obtained from the manufacturer, Redline.
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Congratulation on purchasing the Lexus IS 250. I agree with changing the trans fitter as well. Some dealerships suggest it's not needed however, I'd change it as well. Make sure your mechanic understands the procedure. Trans fluid needs to reach operating temp of 102 - 120 degrees prior to checking level, Dealer will use the Toyota Techstream software to perform the procedure.
So they tested the Toyota product?
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Awaiting follow up from Redline for confirmation. Is there additional information comparing the two the low viscosity fluids?
Last edited:
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Redline representative followed up stating "not aware of a comparison of the D6 to the WS fluid". Redline website states Suitable Replacement For:Toyota/Lexus Toyota Type WS, and Quart bottle states Recommended for TOYOTA WS/AW-1.
My lead foot wife’s Rav4 with Redline D6 and 1 1/2 qts of Redline Racing low viscosity and 1 1/2 of regular Redline Racing cocktail to get rid of some of the slip agent for faster cleaner shifts is doing just fine. With 40,000 plus miles on the 100% changed out oil and heavy towing. The Rav4 does have an after market trans cooler on it though. That trans gets abused daily with her foot. As I stated before WS is on my do not like list when at 21,000 on the clock with no towing the WS came out almost black and you could not keep the garage door down during a winter ATF change without getting sick from the smell. It appears WS needs an external oil cooler as trucks with WS don’t burn their WS were the RAV4 doesn’t have an external oil cooler.
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Thanks for the reply . Good point with referencing the trans cooler in the equation. The 2006 - 2013 Lexus IS 350 RWD has a trans cooler mounted to the side of the transmission itself (see photo below). I would thing having a cooler mounted to front of vehicle would be more efficient. Unsure why Toyota would prefer this. I will be using the Redline D6 trans fluid for drain & fill. Will post what existing fluid looks like afterwards.
Ha Ha, that is a transmission HEATER in the Rav4 parts wording, and that's exactly what it does. It just toasts the crap WS.
What?! While I agree this is a WARMER and it does a piss poor job of being a cooler (technically it does cool when transmission oil temp exceeds coolant temp) it does not "toast the crap" out of the transmission fluid. Transmission temps can easily exceed coolant temps during normal use which is typically only around 200F.
I disagree, That little hockey puck is not shedding enough heat away from anything but a grandpa and grandpa driver. We see close to black WS crap on anything coming close to rough service in the Rav4 forums. Toyota trucks with proper external air to fin coolers are the only ones not stressing out WS. Semi synthetic in an ATF transmission know a days is a stupid move. But that is Toyota's MO. "go cheap on things the average customer can't see". Toyota and even Lexus goes cheap on some of their metallurgy and paints. Example: all their bolts/nuts and undercarriage assemblies rust with faster they any other car I have seen. Sub-frames are a rusted mess after 3 years in upper Midwest suburban road use. I asked the used car guy ( a car guy too) why all the Rav4 under cartage seem so rusty when only 3 years old, is that just the one I am looking at. He said no look at any Toyota and Lexus for that matter and they are all rusted faster then any car he knows.
I have a relative that is a Lexus mechanic, and I asked him if they have issues fixing cars with all the rust. He said they cut out and strip out the old bolts and replace them with new all the time. He laughed and said the underside of these cars can become rust buckets. Mechanics that move form other brands and come to Lexus he said are floored how they have never seen such new car rusted so quickly on their undercarriage. Toyota spends the money on the body panels and give proper metallurgy and paints on areas you can see. A $45,000 Rav4 (I talking pre new model update) does not have any window switch or unlock/lock lights on 3 doors. Cheap Hyundai's have window and door lock lights on them. I am going to ask a women at work if her new 2020 Rav4 has button lights for her lock and window switch YET. YET. Yes, YET. After 4 years my wife's outer front CV joint that is also the front wheel bearing torque bolt almost has no threads on the part that sticks out past the nut, rusted away. Again cut corner where ever they can. Don't get me wrong, I like the Rav4 and would buy the new one in a heartbeat, but They can be some of the worst manufactures as far as being cheapskates. Sorry, I digress. And yes I would still buy one, because they are very reliable, we have had nothing go wrong with it yet. I just see a need to improve the rust issue because when it breaks, I will be the one who fixes it and I sold my cutting torch 10 years ago. AND we have all seen I give no mercy on Hyundai and their crap engines. 10X as brutal on them.
I have a relative that is a Lexus mechanic, and I asked him if they have issues fixing cars with all the rust. He said they cut out and strip out the old bolts and replace them with new all the time. He laughed and said the underside of these cars can become rust buckets. Mechanics that move form other brands and come to Lexus he said are floored how they have never seen such new car rusted so quickly on their undercarriage. Toyota spends the money on the body panels and give proper metallurgy and paints on areas you can see. A $45,000 Rav4 (I talking pre new model update) does not have any window switch or unlock/lock lights on 3 doors. Cheap Hyundai's have window and door lock lights on them. I am going to ask a women at work if her new 2020 Rav4 has button lights for her lock and window switch YET. YET. Yes, YET. After 4 years my wife's outer front CV joint that is also the front wheel bearing torque bolt almost has no threads on the part that sticks out past the nut, rusted away. Again cut corner where ever they can. Don't get me wrong, I like the Rav4 and would buy the new one in a heartbeat, but They can be some of the worst manufactures as far as being cheapskates. Sorry, I digress. And yes I would still buy one, because they are very reliable, we have had nothing go wrong with it yet. I just see a need to improve the rust issue because when it breaks, I will be the one who fixes it and I sold my cutting torch 10 years ago. AND we have all seen I give no mercy on Hyundai and their crap engines. 10X as brutal on them.
I do have to ask if you have an example of a company that does not cut corners whenever possible for mass market vehicles?
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