Alternate to M1 0W-40, Dodge Turbo Diesel

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My Dodge (Mercedes) Sprinter van with a 2.7L turbo diesel specs 0w-40. Is there any problem going with a different grade oil? This is a delivery van which drives roughly 150-300 miles a day in both city and highway conditions.
Mercedes I believe wants synthetics, is a dino a no no?
Any recommendations would be great.
 
Mobil Delvac 1, 5w-40 or the Amsoil Series 3000, 5w-30 will both give you much better wear protection and lower oil consumption then the Mobil 1, 0w-40. With oil analysis testing you should be able to safely run very long service intervals with either of these oils.

This engine only requires a "light duty" diesel oil meeting the ACEA "A3/B4" and/or MB 229.5 specifications in Europe; hence the spec. However ,the European diesel fuel is higher cetane and lower sulphur....Even light duty diesels in the US should be running the API/CI-4+, HD diesel oils, IMHO....

TS
 
What I really want is to get away from the $65 oil changes. The van takes 10qt oil at $5qt. The filter is $15. I would love to use a regular dino oil to save cost. However, I don't wan't to compromise the longevity of the engine. The standard OCI for this engine is 10K. There is an oil computer which allows me to go over that at times.

I did see some Shell oil at WallyWorld today. They had a synthetic 5W-40 for $13.xx. Would a standard 5w-40 dino oil work as well?
 
OK, I found Shell Rotela 5w-40 dino. Chevron also Delo 15w-40 dino. How do these sound?

Thanks
 
I would strongly recommend the Mobil 1 Truck & SUV 5w-40. You can get this at Wal Mart in 5 quart jugs for $19.97 each. That bring you down to $55 oil changes every 10-15Kmi. I think that is a good deal for one of the best oils money can buy. It will offer the best protection available over the counter.

If you tried using mineral (dino) oil (which I would NOT suggest) I would think 3000 mile changes would be the only way to do it ... and then that costs more than doing it the way Mercedes wants.

-brian
 
The real issue with using a 15w-40 conventional oil in an engine that specs a 0w-40 synthetic is that you will take a big hit in fuel efficiency. In addition, cold weather starting and general engine performance will suffer.

One of the German oil companies - "ARAL" - published data several years back that showed a 10% fuel savings during the engine warmup phase by using a 0w-40 instead of an SAE 15w-40....

I'd run the low viscosity - 5w-30/10w-30/5w-40 - synthetic with oil analysis and filter changes every 10k miles. You should be able to SAFELY go 20k-25k between changes with the PAO based, CI-4+ oils in this application.

TS
 
I checked out the Amsoil application guide and this is all it says:

LUBRICANTS & FLUIDS
-22 to 100°F......0W-40[1]
Above 0°F......15W-40[1]

I agree that I should stay away from the 15W-40. I don't think that I can beat Rotella 5W-40 synthetic at $13/gallon.
 
Live in North Oregon? trip to B.C. coming soon? Canadian Esso/Exxon/Mobil XD3 100% POA basestock 0-30 or 0-40 syn oil for $4.00 per litre/quart average. With your valued American dollar this would be about $3.00 American a bottle in 12 litre flats at Esso Bulk. CI-4/SL oil, great specs on this oil.

Cyprs
 
It will cost an extra $7.50 to use the Mobil oil instead of the shell. The Mobil oil has extensive field testing with excellent performance over extended drain intervals. I would choose it over the Shell.

Brian
 
Considering pmwalter is running 150-300 miles per day, I don't think the low number is as important for his choice in viscosity. He should consider moving to 5W-, 10W-, or 15W-40 grades, depending on the season.

Also, considering he's running a diesel AND a turbo, using synthetic and shorter than normal OCIs are in order.
 
Kestas,

This isn't your grandmother's diesel. They generally burn pretty clean and 10-25Kmi on the oil is to be expected. Even the old turbodiesels could burn clean if they were well tuned and saw a lot of highway driving.

Brian
 
pmwalter, You need to PM the schaffers rep. He can make you a good deal on a 6 gallon case of Schaffers 5W40 Semi-Synthetic for a few bucks more then what you are paying for 10 qt.'s of M1 0W40! It meets all the spec.'s you would ever need to meet!!!
 
Just as a side note. Here's what the manual say's:

0w-40 = -20 deg F to 100 deg F
15W-40 = 0 deg F to well over 100 deg F

Oils must meet CI-4 and/or the CF-4 I believe, I'm trying to go off memory here. It does recommend Synthetics later in the manual.
I think 5W-40 synthetic is the way to go.
Thanks for all your replies!
cheers.gif
 
pmwalter
I'm seeing more and more Sprinters on the road every day. Can you tell us a little more about the vehicle? Which model did you buy? What is the fuel consumption? Any other impressions?

I really like the versalite design. A low roof model could be in my near future.
Thanks
Justin.
 
Rotella 5w40 synthetic owns in VW TDI diesels that are even modded to up to 180 wheel HP on a the 1.9 L diesel that holds only about 4.5 qts.

The Mobil 1 Truck and SUV 5w40 is great too, its about 20 bux in 5 qt containers at some wal marts!
 
Most MB diesel here come with Delvac MX OEM filled, both Delvac and Delo go quite well in MB diesel engines and meet all the necessary requirments for MB engines.
 
jtantare,

I've had my Sprinter for 1.5 years now and I've put on 50K miles so far. I have mixed feelings about this van. The one we bought was the middle length, extended roof model. The short version was just too small, and the extended version is way to long for practical purposes. The middle length van is esxactly the same size and length as Ford E-Series.

The Good:
Gas mileage! I get 22mpg with city driving, a little more with highway driving.
My van also has the oil computer, anti-lock brakes, and acceleration slip control (I should put this in the bad column.)
I love the multi-postion seats. They are sort of like the expensive trucker seats that adjust every which way. The 2004+ models added more cushion, so go for one of those.
Acceleration is more than adequate for city driving. Don't be expecting to drag race though. Highway driving at 80mph+ is typical Mercedes, smooth!
The interior height is 6ft. I can stand inside and just brush the hairs on my head.
10K mile OCI, more even if you have an oil computer. Tranny is sealed and is only serviced once at 80K miles, then never again.
Controls are nicely laid out. Steering column is in a fixed "trucker" position. I love it, others don't.
Gear shift is in the center dash panel. It's the typical Mercedes gear shift with the soft touch shifting. Just tap it left or right to manualy change gears.

The Bad:
License plate and hardware fell off.
EGR valve leaked oil all over engine.
Leaf spring cushion fell off suspension causing lots of rattles.
Valve stems are all bad. In fact there is a recall on them. Gave me two flat tires.
Power locks don't work properly now. I have to press it twice while it locks and unlocks itself FIVE times.
Dash lights where the climate control functions are go out from time to time. I just slap it to turn them back on.
I'm now having a dangerous problem of passing and/or hard accelerations. Whenever I try to pass a vehicle or merge onto the Interstate, the engine will suddenly lose total power. Then it will accelerate again, then lose total power again. It will do this until I let up on the accelerator. Five or six times at least. This is by far the most troublesome issue.
I also can't find anayone to work on it. I have to do it myself. The dodge dealership in town won't touch it; neither will the Mercedes dealership. I have to take it to Portland,OR (110 miles) to have it worked on.
And finally, it's a bit more expensive. This version cost my company $34,000. A ford E350 should only cost you $25,000.
Oh I forgot, the rear door latch broke. It still closes, just not as easily.

Besides the issues I have had, I still like the van. I truly believe that Mercedes has slipped a bit in quality control, however it is still a sound vehicle that should last a long time.

Hope this helps.
 
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