Ah, the smell of fresh keys!

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Anyway, I believe most of you know me well enough to know that I'm never happy with things as they are. Hence, modification, or at least some tinkering, is essential to mori's happiness.

The little 0.09W tungsten flashlight bulb in ignition key was never good enough for me. Back in '96 I installed an amber LED from a NightHawk micro light and converted the power source to a lithium coin cell. I did the same with my new key, only I used an ultra-bright white 5mm LED this time around.

On the left the the original key (still a blank), on the right the key with the LED conversion with CR1616 coin cell:
led.jpg


I guess you can tell which one is the LED (image not color correct -- I'm too tired):
led_vs009W.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: moribundman

led.jpg




That battery on the left is one of those 625 mercury cells that have been banned in this country for many years. I wonder what the Audi dealer uses when people bring them in looking for replacements?

I've got a couple old (60s-era) cameras that use those batteries; there are non-toxic replacements available but they are a different voltage, which come to think of it might be OK for the key flashlight. I was just surprised to see the mercury battery since its been years since I've seen one.
 
Nope, you are mistaken. The Varta V 625 U is a 1.5V alkaline cell. Mercury batteries were banned in the EU in 2001. The PX 625 was a 1.35 V mercury cell (commonly used to power lightmeters in cameras due to their even power output).
 
Ahhh, thanks for clearing that up. I'd seen the Varta stuff some time ago and just figured they were mercury also.

I keep meaning to try the 1.5V batteries in my old cameras but I'll have to either get the light meter re-calibrated, or just compensate for the different voltage manually.
 
You should consider a Wein Cell MRB625 1.35V mercury-free zinc/air battery. It's the most elegant solution for your dilemma. You can get that cell at Adorama.
 
Dude! That's awesome! I have a key fob for my 08 Focus that unlocks/locks the doors and opens the trunk. I was wondering if you cold install a green laser that would discourage wild animals from attacking.
 
A typical small laser diode assembly (optical lens/focus assembly, diode, circuit board) is about 1/4" in diameter and a bit over 1" long. I don't think it will fit inside the factory key.
 
I'm surprised that they programmed the RFID based on the VIN number so cheaply. When I was a locksmith in Cyprus, if the owner lost the keys, we would contact the factory with the VIN in order to get the RFID codes. The key code is a simpler matter since there are easily available (to locksmiths) databases that will cut the key from the code.

If I were you, I would file down the sharp spikes between the tooth cuts on the key. That way you can minimize the ear and tear of the lock each time you insert the key.
 
Originally Posted By: CivicFan
If I were you, I would file down the sharp spikes between the tooth cuts on the key.


I was wondering about that. I don't remember the original key having those. Why does the replacement key have them?

I haven't cut the blank yet, but I'll go with a smoother approach.
 
Originally Posted By: moribundman
Originally Posted By: CivicFan
If I were you, I would file down the sharp spikes between the tooth cuts on the key.


I was wondering about that. I don't remember the original key having those. Why does the replacement key have them?

I haven't cut the blank yet, but I'll go with a smoother approach.


There are two ways of cutting the keys - the replacement you got (with spikes in between each cut), or the smooth way which is what your original key is. The upside of option 1 is that the spikes keep the key in place and the chances of it sliding out are less. The upside of the option 2 is that it reduces the wear of the lock and is easier to insert or remove the key.

I used to prefer to cut the keys with spikes and then round down the sharp tips. That way you get something in between the two options. I don't know why the key cutting computers do not have that option.
 
In addition to the ignition key, I also have a service key. The service key does not work on the trunk and rear seat locks.
 
I celebrated my 528e's 18th birthday by getting a new illuminated key. It cost less than 30$ and came with a hat. I gave a BMW parts guy the VIN and some proof of ownership documents. 2 days later I had a key. It was great.
For about 60$, I can get a new door lock tumbler for the key.
 
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almost all the aftermarket keys for german cars are bradd ilco is one of the big suppliers and they use brass so we can cut them on our machines here in the US
 
Originally Posted By: moribundman
In addition to the ignition key, I also have a service key. The service key does not work on the trunk and rear seat locks.


My VW came with 3 keys: 2 master keys with the remote and 1 service key. I could also lock the trunk release switch which only the master can do that.

I noticed that the Audi, VW, BMW have similar design keys and its cut a different way (in the center). It probably cost more to cut them, I'm assuming its a different kind of key cutter. Do you know when Audi went from the keys like yours to the new center cut keys.
 
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Most, if not all of the OE keys on the European marques I've come across are made of steel. The key in front of me is marked with an "S." A good locksmith should have no trouble cutting original equipment steel blanks, but I wouldn't expect a place like Home Despot to cut anything but a replica brass blank.

DW TV ran a story on Huf, the big gun, a few years ago.

The ubiquity of keyless entry systems now ensures that few replacement keys, or fobs cost as little as a simple old key.

Speaking of car keys, the GM rentals I used to get would drive me crazy with their single-sided keys that needed to be properly oriented to fit into the lock. A really good example where cost-cutting damages the user experience, and repeated twice every time the vehicle is driven.
 
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