Advice for 2009 Ford Mustang GT (UOA Inside)

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Originally Posted By: Cujet
While not the same, the Ford 4.6L truck engines clearly show better UOA numbers on 10W-30 Mobil 1, compared to 5W-20, down here in hot and steamy South Florida. Especially when towing is involved. However, the numbers you are seeing are just fine.

We would see well over 90PPM iron with the thin oil on a 5K change interval and towing.


Have you posted those here? I collect anything Modular.
 
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen

Have you posted those here? I collect anything Modular.


Got any for a 2005-2010 4.6L mustang to share?
 
No, but you could search the UOA section and might find something. Most of what I started with was 5.4L stuff from '08 (after I got the truck). I've never gone back to check on 4.6L as I'v just started filing those too.

I'd really like to see some UOAs that show high 90ppm iron with 5W20 being brought down by 10W30 oil.
 
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
Originally Posted By: Cujet
While not the same, the Ford 4.6L truck engines clearly show better UOA numbers on 10W-30 Mobil 1, compared to 5W-20, down here in hot and steamy South Florida. Especially when towing is involved. However, the numbers you are seeing are just fine.

We would see well over 90PPM iron with the thin oil on a 5K change interval and towing.


Have you posted those here? I collect anything Modular.


Nothing other than the random iron number. It was work related and i did not pay for he uoa's. I generally use avlabs as they do our aircraft too.
 
What about Redline 5w20? It's 9.1 cSt right out of the bottle and has a 3.3 HTHS, which is a better HTHS performance than most 5w30s.
 
They're really two different types of oil. Amsoil's claim to fame is long drain interval performance. Redline's is high temperature performance. Different tools to solve different problems.

If I read your original post correctly you like to drive the car hard before the engine is warmed up. That points to having an oil with very high viscosity index so it reaches full flow quickly. Look at the following:

Redline 0w30
Lubro Moly (Liqui Moly) 0w30 Longtime
Renewable Lubricants 0w30

All have very high viscosity indexes.

The previous recommendation of Redline 5w20 is good as well, but the aforementioned 30wt oils will actually perform better when cold.
 
Thanks gpshumway! I'll check those out. I don't drive the engine too hard when it's cold but my rule of thumb is as soon as the coolant gauge shows that its warmed up to its operating temp, i go for it.

Will the 30 weight oils do okay in winter?
 
Originally Posted By: ThatGuyOverThere
Thanks gpshumway! I'll check those out. I don't drive the engine too hard when it's cold but my rule of thumb is as soon as the coolant gauge shows that its warmed up to its operating temp, i go for it.

Will the 30 weight oils do okay in winter?


IMHO, you need an oil temp gauge. The oil can take longer to get to temp than the coolant.
 
I'll second OVERK1LL's comment. The oil can take substantially longer than the coolant to reach operating temp. My dad had an Audi 2.7t with an oil temp gauge, on a Minnesota winter day it could be 20min between the time the coolant was up to temp and when the oil was. My own Audi was the same way, though less so. In the summer the difference is less.

The 30wt oils will do great in the winter, they're all 0w oils with high viscosity index.

This graph shows the approximate behavior of a few of the oils we're talking about. GT1 5w20=Kendall GT1 Semi-Synthetic, RL=Redline, RLI=Renewable Lubricants Inc.

Note that the GT1 has the lowest viscosity at freezing temperatures followed by the 30wt oils and Redline 5w20 actually has the highest viscosity at freezing.

ViscCurves1.jpg
 
Exactly. My M5 for example, oil temp would be right up half way to work. Actually came up quicker than the coolant temp.

Now that it is later in the season and temperature is down around 8-12 degrees, the oil temp is only halfway to temp by the time I reach work, even though coolant is fully warm.
 
The oil temp variable is very platform dependent.

Engines with piston jets will heat the oil very quickly. Many cars have them.

In my car on a very cold day the oil can heat up quicker than the coolant for the first few minutes.
 
Does the vehicles have after market springs to go along with the cams? An increase in spring pressure can certainly cause more wear..do you allow the oil to reach operating temp before beating the [censored] out of it? (not coolant,coolant will reach operating temp long before oil does) you say nothing has been done that could affect the readings..it has aftermarket cams..and a tune. Both which can cause lots more wear if not done properly.
 
The oil is fine. Stop being neurotic "the sky is falling" oil users. The engine isn't broken in and will continue to for a while. It's a hot engine with a hotter cam.
 
Originally Posted By: Travis99LS1
Does the vehicles have after market springs to go along with the cams? An increase in spring pressure can certainly cause more wear..do you allow the oil to reach operating temp before beating the [censored] out of it? (not coolant,coolant will reach operating temp long before oil does) you say nothing has been done that could affect the readings..it has aftermarket cams..and a tune. Both which can cause lots more wear if not done properly.


Thanks for all the response guys.

The cam did not require a valve spring change. My UAO is from before the cams.

If I change to a 0w30, and then get a UOA, will that immediately show the results with that oil or will it take a couple of oil changes with the same oil to see an accurate result?
 
You can't compare UOA's between oils. That is not what they are designed for. A lot of people do it however and love to draw all kinds of exciting conclusions!!
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