Advice for 2009 Ford Mustang GT (UOA Inside)

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MA
Hi all, I've got a 2009 Ford Mustang, it is the GT with the 4.6L 3-valve V8 motor. For the sake of keeping the post short, I will just list my info for you guys: -2009 Mustang, 4.6L 3-valve V8 motor -Purchased the car used with 10,000 miles on it in a moderate weather state (50F - 90F all year around). -Do not drive car much at all, maybe 50 miles a week at most--it is a weekend car mostly. Usually change the oil up every 6 months rather than hitting the OCI mileage. -99% city driving (lots of stop and go, lots of idling), rarely sees freeway action. Short trips are typical, 5-6 miles at a time. Frequent cold starts. Driven moderately to aggressively. Typically shift at 4000RPM or above but usually gentle part-throttle acceleration (6500RPM redline). -Original owner used Ford Motorcraft 5w20 semi-synth stuff with Motorcraft filter. I have changed the oil/filter 3 times since with Pennzoil Platinum 5w20 and the same FL820S Motorcraft filter. -I have now moved to a state where it snows 3-4 months out of the year and the car will be driven in freezing temperatures. Ford Recommended: -7500 mile OCI or 6 months. -5w20, ford spec: WSS-M2C930-A One and only UOA I got: 50/50 city/highway driving (I have since put another 5000 or so miles on it, also using PP): So basically, I came across some Pennzoil Ultra on the shelf the other day which got my curious. I figured that at this point, I change the oil maybe 2 times a year at most so the cost of the oil change is not a huge factor. I also do short trips and my habits are far from babying the car around (leadfoot), I frequently rev close to redline more than I drive "normally" in this car. The car has an aftermarket intake and camshafts but nothing major to really affect the oil. What do you guys think I should change up? I got some PureOne filters on sale a while back so I will probably use those up. In the meantime, I've depleted my stock of Pennzoil Platinum so I'm looking to see if there's anything better out there. I doubt I will ever get this car driven enough to establish a strong history of UOAs--on the last one, Blackstone commented that my motor was probably still breaking in. And again, price is not a big factor but there's no way I'm going to pay the $30/quart for that Motul stuff like I did that one time...we don't talk about it. I have no problem shelling out the cash for synthetic. I have a completely illogical obsession for running "the best" oil--especially if you tell me about the oil groups and how esthers are awesome or whatever (I don't understand it really but one time, i was told Motul was Group V and $130 later, I tried it). So with that, I have no problem ordering something online if that means I'll get a better product for my motor. Store bought it totally fine too. I ran German Castrol on my previous vehicle with no issues but I never did any UOA's to prove anything. With that said, I am not really partial to any brands but I don't really like Royal Purple for no good reason (probably because I feel like their advertisement is so exaggerated). On that note, I am also not a huge fan of Amsoil because they have a strange business model / marketing strategy. Either way, I'd consider anything and everything so long as I'm convinced it's a good buy! Thanks guys!
 
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Wow sir those are some crazy copper and iron numbers. Perhaps you could cool off on the aggressive driving for one UOA just to see if there's a difference?
 
I sent you invaluable links to your PM inbox. This is a heavily beaten topic in the Mustang community.
Originally Posted By: ThatGuyOverThere
i was told Motul was Group V and $130 later, I tried it).
Do you have a UOA from the Motul you tried, or was that another car?
Originally Posted By: ThatGuyOverThere
I don't really like Royal Purple for no good reason (probably because I feel like their advertisement is so exaggerated).
Not exaggerated, they just fail to tell you that ANY true synthetic lubricant will give similar results. You have to be careful with the word synthetic....too many companies call group III base stock lubricants a synthetic. IMO, It's close...but not the real thing. Sorry group III fans...I'm not one! Too high of NOACK for my $20,000 engine, and doesn't give me every possible ounce of output efficiency as a group IV.
Originally Posted By: ThatGuyOverThere
On that note, I am also not a huge fan of Amsoil because they have a strange business model / marketing strategy.
There are two forum sponsors here who are Amsoil dealers. It's great stuff, and I'm a huge believer in it. I have multiple UOAs to prove it as well. The stuff does everything Amsoil says it will do. Don't let the dealer network style of marketing stray you from an awesome product.
 
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You guys with those Mustangs need to quit running 5W-20 -- I don't care what Ford says. I've seen it time and time again in the UOA section. You're wearing those engines out with that thin oil. Those iron and copper numbers are through the roof. You might as well say piston ring numbers and bearing numbers because that's what they are. You keep wearing your bearings out and you're gonna eventually start losing oil pressure -- and then you're gonna start rapidly wearing the bearings out even faster. I'm speaking out on this issue because these engines are some of the best engines America puts out and I think it's a shame that these engines are getting premature wear when they don't have to be.
 
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Before I read Merkava's post, the first thing that hit me was the 5w20 is too thin for that powerful engine. I never bash grades of oil, but this instance IMO calls for a high quality 5w30 and or 0w40. I know this car is still breaking in and a lot of people will argue the wear will come down (and it very well may come down some) but if a good quality 5w20 is not working, which I believe it is just not up for the job in this case, a thicker grade or true synthetic IV or V must be used. I would recommend Amsoil for your engine in this case, take care of the engine in that baby. 5w30. If you can not bear to use amsoil, I highly recommend running a 50/50 mix of M1 5w30/0w40 or straight M1 0w40. That is my take and I am sticking to it.
 
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Bunch-o-Chicken Littles ( : < ) The engine has only 16K miles, has already had uprated cams installed (which will dump iron like crazy till they break in) and this engine is far from done shedding a little excess iron. Plus, 30 ppm iron is not a tear-your-hair-out level anyway. Same for the copper. This UOA does not indicate any serious problems nor the need for different oil or viscosity. That said, fuel dilution is a touch high and some would regard that as a reason for a change to 30 grade. Given the spirited driving, I wouldn't disagree but I also don't think it's vital (at least based on this UOA). If this were my car, I probably would use a 30 grade... likely a 0W30 syn. But I wouldn't have made that choice based solely on this UOA.
 
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I agree 100% that 5W-20 is a bad choice for this car, as we have beat this topic to death in the Mustang Forums. CAFE laws are the only reason why Ford adopted the 5W-20 recommendation. It's for profit reasons only to minimize CAFE law penalties to the federal government. They gain efficiency on the dyno using it, but only comparing petroleum 20 grade to petroleum 30 grades. When I had a 2008 Mustang GT with the 4.6L V8 (bought new with 6 miles on it), I was using Mobil 1 5W-20 from the first oil change. I had already established a trend of mpg efficiency from it. At the 30,000 mile mark I began using Amsoil 0W-30, and within three tanks of fuel had notice an increase in mpg. Hand calculations confirmed a 1 mpg increase across the board. In this case, the 30 grade TRUE synthetic reduced internal friction compared to the hydrocracked petroleum Mobil 1 5W-20. It could be assumed that wear decreased as well. Engine coolant temperatures were also slightly reduced from the average. Less friction = less heat. The OP could lower his wear numbers and increase efficiency by using a true synthetic like I did. His short trips + WOT sprints compound the issue, but a true synthetic will help to minimize wear in this demanding application. Since he is going to be driving the vehicle in freezing weather, and wants to do extended oil change intervals....I highly recommend Amsoil AZO 0W-30 and the Amsoil EaO11 oil filter for his application. With this oil and filter, he would only have to change it once a year, yet still protect better than his current combination.
 
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19,686
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I agree with the beast, it's calling out for more viscosity... is anyone listening? I would hope with those aftermarket cams that there is an appropriate tune on this car. If so it's probably very rich, and thus fuel dilution is typical. And Jim is right, they may shed iron for a LONG time. Geez, just remember that's 30 parts per million! X a dozen on the Amsoil, a great product in search of your engine!
 

JOD

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Originally Posted By: chubbs1
Before I read Merkava's post, the first thing that hit me was the 5w20 is too thin for that powerful engine.
65hp/liter is an incredibly powerful engine requiring a thicker viscosity than the mfg recommends? Somehow, I'm not seeing it. The numbers from the UOA, which frankly aren't that high at all, are simply from break-in wear. Given the age of the engine and his driving habits, things look great. The oil has barely sheared over 6K of short-trip driving, which is a pretty good indication that this engine simply isn't hard on oil. PZ ultra is a slightly thicker oil (2.7 vs 2.6 hths), so the OP could always give that a shot. But this UOA looks pretty much perfect to me given the conditions. If cost isn't a big concern, I'd probably switch to the Ford Racing filter though, since it has the bypass in the base, while offering higher flow and better filtration than the regular Motorcraft filter.
 

JOD

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Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
I agree with the beast, it's calling out for more viscosity
based on what? Given his driving habits, you realize that the oil he's using is likely way too thick for most of his driving, right?
 

ThatGuyOverThere

Thread starter
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Originally Posted By: yaris0128
Wow sir those are some crazy copper and iron numbers. Perhaps you could cool off on the aggressive driving for one UOA just to see if there's a difference?
I don't mean to be rude or anything but the reason I bought this car was to beat the [censored] out of it. I'm sure not all will agree with me but I mostly enjoy this car for its power so I'm just going to drive it like I want. All I'm looking for is to see if there's anything more I can do for the motor in terms of lubrication. If not, that's fine, I'll beat it until it gives out and we'll go from there.
Originally Posted By: Unleashedbeast
I sent you invaluable links to your PM inbox. This is a heavily beaten topic in the Mustang community. Do you have a UOA from the Motul you tried, or was that another car? There are two forum sponsors here who are Amsoil dealers. It's great stuff, and I'm a huge believer in it. I have multiple UOAs to prove it as well. The stuff does everything Amsoil says it will do. Don't let the dealer network style of marketing stray you from an awesome product.
Noted! I've been wanting to switch to a group IV oil, if not a Group V. I just got lost in this board trying to figure out what was what group since people seem to disagree on this a lot. I will look into Amsoil. I'm not against it, I actually ran it in my previous car for a long long time because it was available locally so why not. Then I moved and it had to be a mail order thing that I just didn't want to deal with at the time. The Motul was on my previous vehicle which was driven a lot more than this one.
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
Bunch-o-Chicken Littles ( : < ) The engine has only 16K miles, has already had uprated cams installed (which will dump iron like crazy till they break in) and this engine is far from done shedding a little excess iron. Plus, 30 ppm iron is not a tear-your-hair-out level anyway. Same for the copper. This UOA does not indicate any serious problems nor the need for different oil or viscosity. That said, fuel dilution is a touch high and some would regard that as a reason for a change to 30 grade. Given the spirited driving, I wouldn't disagree but I also don't think it's vital (at least based on this UOA). If this were my car, I probably would use a 30 grade... likely a 0W30 syn. But I wouldn't have made that choice based solely on this UOA.
My car runs rich, it does have an aftermarket calibration in it that seems to dump a healthy dose of fuel. I think my MPG itself speaks for how rich it runs and as well as my driving habits (I average 9-10MPG).
Originally Posted By: Unleashedbeast
I agree 100% that 5W-20 is a bad choice for this car, as we have beat this topic to death in the Mustang Forums.
This is interesting. On some forums I've been on, everyone on there seems to run the recommend 5w20 stuff with no issues long term--be it a supercharged vehicle with tons of modifications or a completely stock Mustang. I'll check out those links you sent me. Much appreciated! So if it were up to you, given what you know about my habits, what oil would you recommend? Keep in mind that I don't necessarily want extended OCI's. I would be more than happy to change every 3000 miles if that will help out the motor. Do you know what the Iron and Copper numbers were on your 2008 Mustang if you had a chance to get a UOA? I'm told that these high numbers are typical to this engine.
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
I agree with the beast, it's calling out for more viscosity... is anyone listening? I would hope with those aftermarket cams that there is an appropriate tune on this car. If so it's probably very rich, and thus fuel dilution is typical. And Jim is right, they may shed iron for a LONG time. Geez, just remember that's 30 parts per million! X a dozen on the Amsoil, a great product in search of your engine!
It has a tune and all that and runs just fine, albeit a little rich but that's a good thing in my book!
Originally Posted By: JOD
65hp/liter is an incredibly powerful engine requiring a thicker viscosity than the mfg recommends? Somehow, I'm not seeing it. The numbers from the UOA, which frankly aren't that high at all, are simply from break-in wear. Given the age of the engine and his driving habits, things look great. The oil has barely sheared over 6K of short-trip driving, which is a pretty good indication that this engine simply isn't hard on oil. PZ ultra is a slightly thicker oil (2.7 vs 2.6 hths), so the OP could always give that a shot. But this UOA looks pretty much perfect to me given the conditions. If cost isn't a big concern, I'd probably switch to the Ford Racing filter though, since it has the bypass in the base, while offering higher flow and better filtration than the regular Motorcraft filter.
Thanks for your input. I got the PureOne filters which are supposedly the same as the FL820S motorcraft filter except with the valve in the base (farthest away from the threads).
 
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You've got the 4.6L V8, but for comparison, this is what Ford recommends for a 2009 Mustang with the 5.4L V8 :
Quote:
2009 FORD MUSTANG 5.4L 8-cyl Engine Code [S] LUBRICANTS & FLUIDS: Engine Oil Grade 1......SN[1] No AMSOIL Product Recommendation All TEMPS......5W-50 Manual Transmission,TR6060......MA5 Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATFQT) Limited Slip Differential, Rear W/ 8.8 ring gear......GL-5* All TEMPS......75W-140 [2] [3] SEVERE GEAR 75W-140 Synthetic EP Lubricant (SVOQT) 80W-140 Synthetic Long Life Gear Lube (FGO05) Fluids Power Steering Fluid......MA5 Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATFQT) Clutch Fluid...... Clutch Fluid......HB AMSOIL Brake Fluid DOT-3 (BF3SN) Brake Fluid......HB AMSOIL Brake Fluid DOT-3 (BF3SN) [1] Motor oil meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C931-B. [2] Synthetic oil is required. [3] Traction-Lok axles add 4 oz of friction modifier P/N C3AZ-19B546-A or equivalent meeting Ford spec EST-M2C118-A FILTERS: Oil Filter 25,000-Mile Ea Oil Filter (EAO11) Oil Filter WIX 51372 Oil Filter Air Filter Absolute Efficiency Air Filter (EAA222) Air Filter WIX 46936 Air Filter Cabin Air Filter WIX 24687 Cabin Air Filter [1] Fuel Filter WIX 33243 Fuel Filter [1] Not all models may be outfitted with a cabin air filter. Please verify before ordering. NGK PLUGS AND WIRESETS: GPSERIES PLUG TR5GP IXIRIDIUM PLUG TR5IX NGK7397 PREMIUMIRIDIUM PLUG ITR5F13 ^ PREMIUMPLATINUM PLUG PTR5F-11 * WIRESET WIRESET WIPER BLADES: Blade Class Driver Passenger ExactFit T2213 NeoForm T162213 [1] T162013 [1] Winter T372213 T372013 [1] OE Design CHASSIS LUBRICATION: 0 Fittings, 0 Plugs CAPACITIES: Engine, with filter..........6.5 quarts [1] Cooling System, Engine Initial Fill..........21.2 quarts AMSOIL Antifreeze and Engine Coolant Manual Transmission, TR6060..........7.4 pints Differential, With 8.8 RingGear Rear..........4.3 pints [2] [1] After refill check oil level. [2] Fill to no more than 1/4 to 9/16 inch below fill plug hole. TORQUES: Oil Drain Plug.....19 ft/lbs Manual Transmission TR6060 6-SPD Fill Plug 18 ft/lbs Drain Plug 20 ft/lbs
 
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Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
You've got the 4.6L V8, but for comparison, this is what Ford recommends for a 2009 Mustang with the 5.4L V8 :
Quote:
2009 FORD MUSTANG 5.4L 8-cyl Engine Code [S] LUBRICANTS & FLUIDS: Engine Oil Grade 1......SN[1] No AMSOIL Product Recommendation All TEMPS......5W-50 Manual Transmission,TR6060......MA5 Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATFQT) Limited Slip Differential, Rear W/ 8.8 ring gear......GL-5* All TEMPS......75W-140 [2] [3] SEVERE GEAR 75W-140 Synthetic EP Lubricant (SVOQT) 80W-140 Synthetic Long Life Gear Lube (FGO05) Fluids Power Steering Fluid......MA5 Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATFQT) Clutch Fluid...... Clutch Fluid......HB AMSOIL Brake Fluid DOT-3 (BF3SN) Brake Fluid......HB AMSOIL Brake Fluid DOT-3 (BF3SN) [1] Motor oil meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C931-B. [2] Synthetic oil is required. [3] Traction-Lok axles add 4 oz of friction modifier P/N C3AZ-19B546-A or equivalent meeting Ford spec EST-M2C118-A FILTERS: Oil Filter 25,000-Mile Ea Oil Filter (EAO11) Oil Filter WIX 51372 Oil Filter Air Filter Absolute Efficiency Air Filter (EAA222) Air Filter WIX 46936 Air Filter Cabin Air Filter WIX 24687 Cabin Air Filter [1] Fuel Filter WIX 33243 Fuel Filter [1] Not all models may be outfitted with a cabin air filter. Please verify before ordering. NGK PLUGS AND WIRESETS: GPSERIES PLUG TR5GP IXIRIDIUM PLUG TR5IX NGK7397 PREMIUMIRIDIUM PLUG ITR5F13 ^ PREMIUMPLATINUM PLUG PTR5F-11 * WIRESET WIRESET WIPER BLADES: Blade Class Driver Passenger ExactFit T2213 NeoForm T162213 [1] T162013 [1] Winter T372213 T372013 [1] OE Design CHASSIS LUBRICATION: 0 Fittings, 0 Plugs CAPACITIES: Engine, with filter..........6.5 quarts [1] Cooling System, Engine Initial Fill..........21.2 quarts AMSOIL Antifreeze and Engine Coolant Manual Transmission, TR6060..........7.4 pints Differential, With 8.8 RingGear Rear..........4.3 pints [2] [1] After refill check oil level. [2] Fill to no more than 1/4 to 9/16 inch below fill plug hole. TORQUES: Oil Drain Plug.....19 ft/lbs Manual Transmission TR6060 6-SPD Fill Plug 18 ft/lbs Drain Plug 20 ft/lbs
Ford recommends Amsoil?
 
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Originally Posted By: cchase
Ford recommends Amsoil?
That quote is from Amsoil's product guide, but they always list the manufacturer's recommended viscosity grades.
 
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Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: cchase
Ford recommends Amsoil?
That quote is from Amsoil's product guide, but they always list the manufacturer's recommended viscosity grades.
Owners manual for a 2009 Ford Mustang GT 4.6 specifies a 5w20 motor oil.
Originally Posted By: Owners Manual
4.6L 3V V8 Engine Look for this certification trademark. Use SAE 5W-20 engine oil Only use oils “Certified For Gasoline Engines” by the American Petroleum Institute (API). An oil with this trademark symbol conforms to the current engine and emission system protection standards and fuel economy requirements of the International Lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC), comprised of U.S. and Japanese automobile manufacturers. To protect your engine and engine’s warranty, use Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 or an equivalent SAE 5W-20 oil meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C930-A. SAE 5W-20 oil provides optimum fuel economy and durability performance meeting all requirements for your vehicle’s engine.
 

JOD

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I hate to ask the obvious, but what on earth does the recommendation for the supercharged 5.4 Shelby putting out over 500HP have to do with the OP's car? I simply don't understand the logic. Ford uses it in the more expensive car, so it must be better or something? IT'S A TOTALLY DIFFERENT ENGINE! The lubrication requirements are completely different. Never mind that it seems few have actually read what the OP posted. He does short trips, he gets on it pretty hard and he's now living in MA (my condolences). His oil will be much too thick most of the time, regardless of what he puts in the sump. Going thicker makes zero sense. A 0W20 would honestly be more suitable, but the Mustang police would probably want to hang me for even suggesting it! As far as the "true synthetic" business, I don't see how a PAO-based lubricant would provide any additional protection for these driving habits with this engine and his proposed OCI. PAO-based lubricants certainly have their purpose, like helping to meet extended drain requirements and specifications, and extreme cold-weather pumpability. But under normal driving conditions and with an engine that doesn't operate under extreme conditions (extreme temperature or the presence of a lot of fuel, or extended OCI's), I see no benefit. I've never seen any evidence that they "lubricate better", which seems to be the suggestion. The proof is in the pudding: this oil held up well for the OCI.
 

OVERKILL

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Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
You've got the 4.6L V8, but for comparison, this is what Ford recommends for a 2009 Mustang with the 5.4L V8 :
Quote:
2009 FORD MUSTANG 5.4L 8-cyl Engine Code [S] LUBRICANTS & FLUIDS: Engine Oil Grade 1......SN[1] No AMSOIL Product Recommendation All TEMPS......5W-50 Manual Transmission,TR6060......MA5 Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATFQT) Limited Slip Differential, Rear W/ 8.8 ring gear......GL-5* All TEMPS......75W-140 [2] [3] SEVERE GEAR 75W-140 Synthetic EP Lubricant (SVOQT) 80W-140 Synthetic Long Life Gear Lube (FGO05) Fluids Power Steering Fluid......MA5 Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATFQT) Clutch Fluid...... Clutch Fluid......HB AMSOIL Brake Fluid DOT-3 (BF3SN) Brake Fluid......HB AMSOIL Brake Fluid DOT-3 (BF3SN) [1] Motor oil meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C931-B. [2] Synthetic oil is required. [3] Traction-Lok axles add 4 oz of friction modifier P/N C3AZ-19B546-A or equivalent meeting Ford spec EST-M2C118-A FILTERS: Oil Filter 25,000-Mile Ea Oil Filter (EAO11) Oil Filter WIX 51372 Oil Filter Air Filter Absolute Efficiency Air Filter (EAA222) Air Filter WIX 46936 Air Filter Cabin Air Filter WIX 24687 Cabin Air Filter [1] Fuel Filter WIX 33243 Fuel Filter [1] Not all models may be outfitted with a cabin air filter. Please verify before ordering. NGK PLUGS AND WIRESETS: GPSERIES PLUG TR5GP IXIRIDIUM PLUG TR5IX NGK7397 PREMIUMIRIDIUM PLUG ITR5F13 ^ PREMIUMPLATINUM PLUG PTR5F-11 * WIRESET WIRESET WIPER BLADES: Blade Class Driver Passenger ExactFit T2213 NeoForm T162213 [1] T162013 [1] Winter T372213 T372013 [1] OE Design CHASSIS LUBRICATION: 0 Fittings, 0 Plugs CAPACITIES: Engine, with filter..........6.5 quarts [1] Cooling System, Engine Initial Fill..........21.2 quarts AMSOIL Antifreeze and Engine Coolant Manual Transmission, TR6060..........7.4 pints Differential, With 8.8 RingGear Rear..........4.3 pints [2] [1] After refill check oil level. [2] Fill to no more than 1/4 to 9/16 inch below fill plug hole. TORQUES: Oil Drain Plug.....19 ft/lbs Manual Transmission TR6060 6-SPD Fill Plug 18 ft/lbs Drain Plug 20 ft/lbs
The 5.4L is in the Shelby and makes 550HP. This is a 4.6L, with no where NEAR the same power density (and also doesn't have a Supercharger like the Shelby does). They are NOT comparable. Also note: This engine has BIMETAL BEARINGS. They are Aluminum and silicon. They have NO copper or lead in them, AT ALL.
 

ThatGuyOverThere

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Originally Posted By: JOD
I hate to ask the obvious, but what on earth does the recommendation for the supercharged 5.4 Shelby putting out over 500HP have to do with the OP's car?
I think people tend to think they are the same animal because it's still a mustang. Overall, the 5.4 in the Shelby GT500 is VERY different from what I understand. It's a 4 valve motor and has different characteristics.
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Also note: This engine has BIMETAL BEARINGS. They are Aluminum and silicon. They have NO copper or lead in them, AT ALL.
This is the part that puzzles me and I've heard this over and over--people are always confused why I have high lead and copper when the motor doesn't have any of this. I forgot to mention, I did run a bottle of Techron stuff through it and I did this on a long freeway drive (400+ miles non stop, except to gas up of course). I also ran a bottle of fuel fragrance through it for fun but I know people that have run this stuff through their cars and done a LOT of UOA's with no adverse effects. So I know this doesn't explain the high lead/copper.
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
OP: What "intake" and "tune" are on the car? Who wrote the tune?
I have a C&L "Racer" intake with a Brenspeed tune.
 

OVERKILL

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If the tune is overly rich, I'd be concerned about it washing down your cylinder walls. I'd give Paul at call at Torq (in Florida) and see what he can do for you. He's a buddy of mine. I think your UOA is fine really, given the car's use. The copper is irrelevant since we know it isn't from any bearing in the engine. It may just be leaching from a sealer that Ford used. Nothing to be concerned about. I'm not familiar with that intake. I've used C&L products in the past, but is it a true cold air intake or does it breathe from under the hood?
 
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