The 6hp zf transmissions also have seals between the valve body and the rest of the transmission that go bad. They're not hard to replace. Something like this https://www.amazon.ae/KOAUTO-6hp26-Valve-Adapter-Mechatronic/dp/B07WYYMZK5
Is their any way of knowing before a drain or fill whether the outcome is bleak? For instance color or aroma of the fluid?Agree with others. Change the fluid a couple times then change and add lubeguard. If a simple drain/fill kills it then it was already dead.
If it’s gray or a bunch of metalIs their any way of knowing before a drain or fill whether the outcome is bleak? For instance color or aroma of the fluid?
If you are that apprehensive, drain the current fluid into a clean, sealable container and set aside. Do one fill and drive. If the transmission works well, you're good. Carry on with a second drain/fill/filter change. If it slips or causes trouble, drain the new fluid and put the original fluid back in until you come up with your next plan of action.Is their any way of knowing before a drain or fill whether the outcome is bleak? For instance color or aroma of the fluid?
For instance shudder fix, at least in yt videos from the company states that if the addition of the shudder fix, eliminates the issue, the fluid is the issue. However if it remains, then the issue is mechanical
If the unit has not been serviced before there could be quite a bit of sludge and varnish built up in the interior of the transmission. The transmission can get to rely on this sludge to function properly. If you were to do a service, the new ATF has detergents and dispersants that can loosen everything up and can expose worn friction surfaces, create slippage and the transmission could fail. Adding Lubegard could also be problematic. Lubegard is not a solvent, or detergent, but it was designed to lubricate sludge away from valve bodies and O-rings. This can be problematic in a high-milage, unmaintained unit.
Some choose to do a service slowly, draining a few quarts at a time. This way you’re slowing introducing new fluid to the system and not shocking it with a flush.
We have had a lot of success stories of using Lubegard in similar situations, but there is a risk that you may have an issue. If you decide to proceed, the best product to use would be the Synthetic ATF Protectant #60902 (red bottle).
If it’s gray or a bunch of metal
Color and smell are meaningless
This is basically what I do in all of my units. Just drain and fill slow and steady. If you spread them out you can still add the LG. For instance if I only get three quarts out of one d/f, but the capacity of the unit is 10 quarts I will add 10 oz of LG. On subsequent d/fs, I would add an additional 3oz each timeGot a response from LubeGard.
Any thoughts guys?