Adding an engine oil bypass filter - toughts?

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Jun 6, 2015
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Location
VA, US
I am considering adding an engine oil bypass filter on my RAV4 V6 engine.
Basic information for this is linked below, so I won't get people yelling at me that I will destroy the engine:

I did look at:
1. AMSOIL housing and filter https://www.amsoil.com/p/universal-single-remote-bypass-system-bmk21/
2. John Frantz housing (for TP) https://www.toiletpaperoilfilter.com/the-new-refiner.html

I fill my cars with Full Synthetic and since last year, I didn't drive that much. I like the idea of extended oil change intervals, but I don't like that much dirty oil to be circulated in my engine. Sub-20 micron particles are not normally filtered.
Also, water absorption can be a thing when temperature changes like it does now, and the #2 solution claims that it can also do water retention.

What's the consensus around here?
Useful addition or a waste of money?
 
I am considering adding an engine oil bypass filter on my RAV4 V6 engine.
Basic information for this is linked below, so I won't get people yelling at me that I will destroy the engine:

I did look at:
1. AMSOIL housing and filter https://www.amsoil.com/p/universal-single-remote-bypass-system-bmk21/
2. John Frantz housing (for TP) https://www.toiletpaperoilfilter.com/the-new-refiner.html

I fill my cars with Full Synthetic and since last year, I didn't drive that much. I like the idea of extended oil change intervals, but I don't like that much dirty oil to be circulated in my engine. Sub-20 micron particles are not normally filtered.
Also, water absorption can be a thing when temperature changes like it does now, and the #2 solution claims that it can also do water retention.

What's the consensus around here?
Useful addition or a waste of money?
They are a bit large … you found a mounting spot ?
 
LOL, that's true, worse case, I would have to relocate the battery in the rear trunk area.
I already added a PCV oil separator that kind of sits crammed somewhere...
 
I don't personally see the value in it for typical use of a personal vehicle. If I were putting a ton of mileage on a vehicle, and wanted to extend my OCI, I would look at bypass filtration coupled with used oil analysis to find the mileage-based sweet spot for change intervals. As it stands, I believe things like fuel dilution and moisture from short-tripping and idling are more of a threat to the longevity of my oil and engine. For that reason, I would rather get the old oil out of there based on time (every ~6 months in my case).
 
+1 on fsdork; i had one on my echo; it was more of a project to do and I never really extended my OCI much over 10K

I had an oilguard EPS10 and bought a bunch of filters before they jacked the prices up. I haven't bothered to even entertain doing it on any of my subsequent cars.
 
moisture from short-tripping and idling
That's what actually brought me to the TP filter site. They claim that TP can absorb a good amount of water from oil.
https://www.toiletpaperoilfilter.com/faq.html
...it can remove particles as small as one micron (that’s more than 100 times smaller than the thickness of a human hair). Due to a roll of toilet paper's natural affinity for water, it can absorb more than six to eight ounces of water with no reduction in its filtering capacity. The Oil Refiner’s element filters your oil through 4 inches of pure cellulose at a rate of approximately one quart per minute.
My experience: I had an older truck, that sat not driven for like 9 months, and when I started it, it milkshaked the oil.
Changed the oil (a pain to remove all that foam) and it run fine, no blown gasket. It probably just had lots of water accumulated inside the oil pan.
 
That's what actually brought me to the TP filter site. They claim that TP can absorb a good amount of water from oil.
https://www.toiletpaperoilfilter.com/faq.html

My experience: I had an older truck, that sat not driven for like 9 months, and when I started it, it milkshaked the oil.
Changed the oil (a pain to remove all that foam) and it run fine, no blown gasket. It probably just had lots of water accumulated inside the oil pan.
The concept doesn't seem unreasonable, but the way it is marketed on the site smells of snake oil. In the FAQs under "Is this a proven product", not one bit of actual data is offered - instead they talk about how "professionals save thousands of dollars on oil changes". Useless information.

I think that ultimately, you need to ask yourself a few things:
1) What is the specific deficiency/contaminate/etc. that reaches an unacceptable level and causes me to have to change my oil?
2) On what proven basis, and to what extent does the bypass system I am considering mitigate that problem?
3) After considering the cost of the system (purchase/install/upkeep), does it pay back in an amount of time that causes it to make sense vs. sticking to a standard OCI?
 
* It would result in keeping your oil "cleaner" for a longer period of time.
* It would not result in any measurable increase in engine longevity in most every day commuter vehicles.
* It would be a neat project to install and monitor. I would like to install the tp model just to see the results.
 
Isn't there a danger that 1 micron filter can possibly remove some oil additives? Just curious.
 
your free time and energy. (oh, and money)
Problem is that last year I didn't get to travel anywhere fun. And this year doesn't look too good either.
So... I have saved lots of money and vacation time. I can use the vacation to sleep on sofa. Or wrench around my car.

Isn't there a danger that 1 micron filter can possibly remove some oil additives?
Those should be molecular bonds, not possible to strip away. If I would have added some other additives (like Teflon or Molybdenum based), then yes, they might be filtered.
 
I think your question has been answered. They are used exclusively in over-the-road trucks because those vehicles travel 400 to 800k miles a year (without overhaul) and their engines are very expensive to rebuild/replace let alone the downtime of not being on the road making money.
 
* It would result in keeping your oil "cleaner" for a longer period of time.
* It would not result in any measurable increase in engine longevity in most every day commuter vehicles.
* It would be a neat project to install and monitor. I would like to install the tp model just to see the results.
Yes in an everyday commuter I doubt you gain anything. Unless it would some how really extend you engine life miles what are you gaining? Anyone have any real life figures on regular commuters for this? It may have some use in long haul roads but seriously a sensible oil change interval probably does just as much for you.
 
If it was a diesel that got lots of soot in the oil then I would think about it. I ran the Amsoil dual bypass on my Liberty CRD.

It never totally cleaned the oil though. It's not like i was pouring out honey colored oil after 5k miles, it still looked like black death.
 
What is the rest of the car going to look like by the time you reach the point that your engine is still running but wouldn't be if you had just followed a typical oil and filter change schedule per the manufacturer's recommendation?

Hypo - assume your engine was going to last 250k miles but you manage to make it last 350k miles. What's the value of the car itself during those last 100k miles? How many other repairs do you have to make during the 250k mile to 350k mile time frame that aren't engine related, vs. just selling the car for scrap or donating for a tax deduction and getting something else?

I mean I think it could be a fun project, I'd be interested to see how it works out, but if the point is to save any real money - the juice ain't worth the squeeze, bro!
 
The intention is not to make the car last longer, but to extend the oil changes.
Using the "20k miles" synthetic oils to have a year between oil changes. Also, I was hoping that cleaner oil will help if I do some towing.
 
How much longer would you go between changes?
I'd go 2 years on synthetic oil, if I was driving low miles. My last VW OCI was 15 months to get to 10k miles. That is with a direct injection turbo - something most would say is harder on oil than your NA v6.
Take a 40min drive once a month and your oil will be in better shape if you're just short tripping. The drive for no reason can also give you something to do with your excess time, energy and money. Find a new hiking trail. A new fishing hole. Etc.
 
Bypass filters are kind of pointless and an additional pain on a gasser, they really only make sense on a Diesel engine where they can collect the soot and you have a large sump that is relatively expensive to dump and refill where filtering out the soot can allow for a significant increase in oil life.
 
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