If i were to add a pint of atf to 4? quarts of 15w40 and the bike calls for 10w40,what does it equal out to? I ask this question to answer this other post here. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/motorcycle-oil-filter-question.90248/ .No one seems to know.
adding a pint of atf to motor oil...
- Thread starter daves66nova
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Huh?
I know that you want to know what it would equal out to, but why in the world would you do this? If your just trying to get rid of the ATF then mix it in with the oil that you take to be recycled. No way in Hades that I would put ATF in my engine, oil is way too cheap to risk anything at all.
Save the ATF for transmissions.....
Just use the motor oil of your choice.
Just use the motor oil of your choice.
Idiot...sorry I couldn't help myself.
What bike (yr, model, mileage, history)?
15W40s in general are far superior to 10W40s - use 'em with confidence. There is zero need to try and thin your oil down to a 10W40.
15W40s in general are far superior to 10W40s - use 'em with confidence. There is zero need to try and thin your oil down to a 10W40.
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What kind of ATF?
I would start getting worried when it gets to limited slip or syncro fluid. I personally wouldn't put ATF in my engine but it's kind of like 10W engine oil for viscosity, has detergent and some anti-wear, I don't think it has chemistry which would cause negative effects against the motor oil, but I would be concerned about friction modifiers and such.
I would start getting worried when it gets to limited slip or syncro fluid. I personally wouldn't put ATF in my engine but it's kind of like 10W engine oil for viscosity, has detergent and some anti-wear, I don't think it has chemistry which would cause negative effects against the motor oil, but I would be concerned about friction modifiers and such.
Three suggestions...don't do it, don't do it, don't do it.
ATF is for transmissions (and certain hydraulic systems). NOT FOR ENGINES.
ATF is for transmissions (and certain hydraulic systems). NOT FOR ENGINES.
ATF thins out motor oil very aggressively; maybe not quite as much as gasoline, but close.
Not safe for the engine bearings; almost like running 5W-20.
Not safe for the engine bearings; almost like running 5W-20.
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Just use the 15w40. Just tell your bike that it's hotter in LA than it really is.
ATF, depending on which flavor, is 7-10 weight.
It's an old wives tale that ATF will clean and engine; or a
carburetor.
There are a few cases of MMO being used to clean up a sticky bendix; or varnish laden lifters.
But the procedure is to only run it for 250 miles or so.
It's an old wives tale that ATF will clean and engine; or a
carburetor.
There are a few cases of MMO being used to clean up a sticky bendix; or varnish laden lifters.
But the procedure is to only run it for 250 miles or so.
its an old mechanics trick that is still used today
they say the atf works as an engine flush
personally, only motor oil goes in my crankcase
they say the atf works as an engine flush
personally, only motor oil goes in my crankcase
Originally Posted By: bobfather99
Save the ATF for transmissions.....
Just use the motor oil of your choice.
Save the ATF for transmissions.....
Just use the motor oil of your choice.
Yep. We've had Mola and others comment that there is no good use for ATF in an engine. If your purpose is soley to thin your oil, and these fine folks haaven't convinced you that 15W40 is perfectly fine, then I'd recommend cutting with a bottle of 5W20. ATF is not going to have the same mix of additives as your motor oil and therefore, might strain the addy pack of your motor oil.
I wouldn't really hurt anything because I have seen people add Qts of atf to motor oil many many times. ATF has different additives than motor oils. 15W40 is great oil as is .I would hesitate to add ATF in a bike . Bikes are usually brutal on the oil compared to car engines.
I wouldn't really hurt anything because I have seen people add Qts of atf to motor oil many many times. ATF has different additives than motor oils. 15W40 is great oil as is .I would hesitate to add ATF in a bike . Bikes are usually brutal on the oil compared to car engines.
Don't do it. Modern motor oil already is low on zddp, why make your oil anemic?
Originally Posted By: NightRiderQ45
Idiot...sorry I couldn't help myself.
Idiot...sorry I couldn't help myself either!!.
Idiot...sorry I couldn't help myself.
Idiot...sorry I couldn't help myself either!!.
I guess no one read my other post? I want to run the motorsilk auto trans treatment so that it treats the engine and not affect the wet clutches at the same time. 1989 gsx-r 750
You mean this stuff? What are you trying to acomplish?
Developed to treat engines, gearboxes, automatic transmission and fuel system, these one time treatments reduce surface friction and wear resulting in the extended life of the fluid system while reducing energy usage and increasing horsepower. ASTM testing resulted in reducing the surface friction coefficient under 0.01% (80% reduction in friction and 90% reduction in wear). MotorSilk™ is not an oil conditioner and does not disrupt the oils additive package. Once the Boron CLS Bond® enters the oil it begins to form a covalent bond with the metal alloy penetrating all carbon, varnish or corrosion forming a near-diamond hard boric oxide surface, thus protecting all vital working components against wear and corrosion activity. This new surface also blocks oxygen to dramatically reduce the oxidation process of the lubricant. Typical applications include:
FWIW, I would not use this is a shared sump with wet clutches.
Developed to treat engines, gearboxes, automatic transmission and fuel system, these one time treatments reduce surface friction and wear resulting in the extended life of the fluid system while reducing energy usage and increasing horsepower. ASTM testing resulted in reducing the surface friction coefficient under 0.01% (80% reduction in friction and 90% reduction in wear). MotorSilk™ is not an oil conditioner and does not disrupt the oils additive package. Once the Boron CLS Bond® enters the oil it begins to form a covalent bond with the metal alloy penetrating all carbon, varnish or corrosion forming a near-diamond hard boric oxide surface, thus protecting all vital working components against wear and corrosion activity. This new surface also blocks oxygen to dramatically reduce the oxidation process of the lubricant. Typical applications include:
FWIW, I would not use this is a shared sump with wet clutches.
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