ACDelco PF1233, unknown miles, C&P

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Aug 14, 2015
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Location
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Well this filter gave me a pretty good fight. It would not come off, so I took my Fram pliers to it. That explains all the dents. Still wouldn't budge, so I finally bought a filter wrench at AZ and that got it off. Unfortunately, my squeezing it with the pliers compressed the can in parts, hence the dents. The dents trapped the center core with the media, until I took a hacksaw and cut it lengthwise, and then peeled the bottom back with snips.

All I know is that a friend of the PO took it back to the mechanic who changed the oil & filter last, but was told that there weren't enough miles on the oil to change it. So this was in play for several months if not a year or more; probably not 3-4K miles. But even that is conjecture on my part.

A few points:
1. There was at most a few drops of oil that came out as I took it off the engine block. Now it does sit upside down on the engine block on the Camry in my sig, but I was thinking that the nitrile ADBV must have stiffened. I was surprised that it was as supple as it was in my fingers, but there was very very little oil that came out as I cut it open.

2. My main purpose in doing all this was to see if there was any sludge or evidence of a gunked up engine. The 2.2L 5S-FE was on the list of engines Toyota had to settle with in that sludgefest 15 years ago. I was surprised at how little gunk there was in the pleats. Not only did I saw the top off, and then saw it down the middle to extract the center tube & media, but I also dropped it in the dirt.

3. If you see any damage to the media itself, just assume it came from the sawing, I also inserted a screwdriver down the can because the dents trapped the center media & tube inside for a while.

I put in a frankenbrew of oils (at least 3) that will take it about 2500 miles to the 280K mark, at which point I'll start 5K mile OCIs. I have a Fram EG4697 (OEM size) on it now. I'll cut that open to verify, but this is looking like there is no sludge if any in the oil. If the Fram EG looks as good as this, I'll go 5K on oil, and 10K on a Wix.
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I thought ACDelco had gone over to Ecores. Oh well maybe this is an old one? I could only find ACDelco battery date codes, which the page I looked at had a different series of numbers & letters. Anyone want to give this date code a shot? 17 looks like a 2017 date of manufacture....
 
On a 5S-FE its rare that you get any oil coming out as you change the filter. I dont even put a drain pan under them anymore. We use the genuine Toyota filters. I have never opened one to see if there is still oil in the filter
 
I thought ACDelco had gone over to Ecores. Oh well maybe this is an old one? I could only find ACDelco battery date codes, which the page I looked at had a different series of numbers & letters. Anyone want to give this date code a shot? 17 looks like a 2017 date of manufacture....
That would be me guess ... 24th day of 2017 ("17024" part).
 
Gen Toy filters also have a nitrile ADBV, too, don't they? I'll see how the Fram EG with its silicone handles 2500 miles.

I get that they are upside down--but if the adbv is working, that shouldn't matter, should it?

Now it did take me 3 hours to get the filter off (after bringing the car up the ramps & turning the engine off)--but don't adbvs work longer than that?

On a 5S-FE its rare that you get any oil coming out as you change the filter. I dont even put a drain pan under them anymore. We use the genuine Toyota filters. I have never opened one to see if there is still oil in the filter
 
The drainback valve will hold some oil on the dirty side of the oil filter. Any oil in the oil galleries and on the clean side of the filter will drain back into the pan. Those filters are so small that its not much oil.
 
OK, so small filter plus upside down means very very little oil. OK.

Well your explanation would also explain why the nitrile ADBV was as supple as it was--it was not malfunctioning, as I thought it had....

The drainback valve will hold some oil on the dirty side of the oil filter. Any oil in the oil galleries and on the clean side of the filter will drain back into the pan. Those filters are so small that its not much oil.
 
The part with the date code was at 12 oclock. the part that screwed on, was at 6 oclock.
So vertical when on top of the engine with the filter base down and the dome end up. If so, yes the ADBV is pretty critical. If hardly any oil came out when the filer was removed, then the ADDV is leaking. If it leaks bad, it can leak down pretty fast when the oil is hot and thin.
 
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Yes, that is correct (about which end was up). Thanks for clarifying about the ADVB.

So vertical when on top of the engine with the filter base down and the dome end up. If so, yes the ADBV is pretty critical. If hardly any oil came out when the filer was removed, then the ADDV is leaking. If it leaks bad, it can leak down pretty fast when the oil is hot and thin.
 
I went ahead and cut the media out of that little sucker this morning. I felt like Gulliver examining an oil filter from a car from Lilliput. But the media itself looked good, which for me, means no carbon bits in the pads. My reason for opening up the pleats was to see if there was any evidence of a sludge or any type of deposit buildup. I realize with unknown miles not much can be inferred from this, but at least for now, I have no reason to see this vehicle as full of sludge. I'll take the current filter (that I put on) off around 2500 miles and I'll open up that one too.

Ignore any metal you might see; I sawed it open with a hacksaw and like I explained above, the can itself was dented fairly well by the time I got it off the car.





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