Accord 2004 100K...switch to synthetic?

[Greasymechtech]

Any Full Synthetic 0w20, 5w20, or 0w30 would have no problem getting you thru the winter. Most domestic/Asian new car dealerships should stock a 0w20 synthetic too, with competitive pricing to walmart and autopart stores.

http://lubricants.petro-canada.ca/en/products/594.aspx

Honda dealer has a good MTF for you. The syntheticethic manual transmission fluids from Amsoil, RedLine, RoyalPurple, BG, Wynns ... are great options.

 

[Winterpeg]

I don't know what part of Montreal you live in but it can get down to -30 Celsius occasionally. With that said your best bet is TGMO 0W-20 at about $5.70 per litre at the dealer. That works out to $22.80/ 4 litres. You can't get Mobil, Castrol, Pennzoil
etc. for near that price anywhere. Heck, it is as cheap as conventional that is not on sale. Forget the 5W-20 as it will be more money and TGMO is among the best you can get. Case closed.

 

[virginoil]

Before you jump to another brand or grade in SYN what oil (brand and grade) was the previous owner using ?

If the vehicle was well maintained all may be good no need to change except your perception.

Previous owner may have been on the mark without BITOG.

 

[Tiboi]

Originally Posted By: virginoil
Before you jump to another brand or grade in SYN what oil (brand and grade) was the previous owner using ?

If the vehicle was well maintained all may be good no need to change except your perception.

Previous owner may have been on the mark without BITOG.

The previous owner did everything by the book (5w20 conventional oil). Brand...I have no idea. The only difference with me, he kept his car in a garage so he did not have to worry about temperature.

Starting a car in a really cold temperature is the hardest thing for the engine. Synthetic offers better protection according to the specs. How better? It is hard to tell.

So the question is, should I switch to synthetic 0W20 knowing there is a very little chance my car has a hidden leak? Or should I play safe with conventional oil knowing it's not the best protection in cold weather.

Both are good and bad.
.

 

[yvon_la]

Honda?bha just use either what the owner was using or grab premium conventional valvoline and call it a day.either the honda oil filter or fram
toughguard oil filter are good choice

 

[salv]

I am 63 miles south of Montreal in the Plattsburgh area of NY. I have run 10w40 conventional in -10F without issues. I'm sure you (OP) make it down here on occasion. Stop by Walmart and pick up some Mobil Super for 12.97/5 qt jug.

 

[EdwardC]

Other than cost, there's no reason you shouldn't run a synthetic 0W20. If it starts to leak, you have a leak, you can go back to conventional to mask it or fix the leak.

 

[sicko]

Originally Posted By: Tiboi
The previous owner did everything by the book (5w20 conventional oil). Brand...I have no idea. The only difference with me, he kept his car in a garage so he did not have to worry about temperature.

Starting a car in a really cold temperature is the hardest thing for the engine. Synthetic offers better protection according to the specs. How better? It is hard to tell.

So the question is, should I switch to synthetic 0W20 knowing there is a very little chance my car has a hidden leak? Or should I play safe with conventional oil knowing it's not the best protection in cold weather.

Both are good and bad.
.



Make the switch. If the original owner did it by the book and changed the oil based on the recommended OCI of the manufacturer, then it's unlikely that the engine is dirty and that the dirt is clogging a leak that will be exposed by the cleaning power of synthetic oil.

0w-20 or 5w-20 SynPower, Quaker State Ultimate Durability, Pennzoil Platinum, M1, they all have excellent cold temperature properties and any of them will protect your vehicle just fine. I like Quaker State Ultimate Durability simply b/c it's a quality oil with a lot of certifications, yet it's usually a couple bucks cheaper than the other ones I listed. But you really can't go wrong with any quality/brand-name oil, so pick the one you like best.

 

[KrisZ]

Originally Posted By: Tiboi

Starting a car in a really cold temperature is the hardest thing for the engine. Synthetic offers better protection according to the specs. How better? It is hard to tell.


There have not been even one study or paper posted on this board proving that synthetics provide better protection cold or hot. Nor could I find one on my own. That is, tearing down the engine and measuring the parts. Not one. Think about it. Why wouldn’t oil manufacturers do such a test if it was true? We have plenty of other tests and studies regarding OCI and how synthetics excel at extending them, but not one that would show this better protection that is so often claimed in marketing materials.

Switch to a synthetic oil if you like, and the car might crank a bit easier in extreme cold, but that's about it. The engine will do the same on anything SN rated and a sane viscosity.

 

[Tiboi]

Originally Posted By: sicko
Originally Posted By: Tiboi
The previous owner did everything by the book (5w20 conventional oil). Brand...I have no idea. The only difference with me, he kept his car in a garage so he did not have to worry about temperature.

Starting a car in a really cold temperature is the hardest thing for the engine. Synthetic offers better protection according to the specs. How better? It is hard to tell.

So the question is, should I switch to synthetic 0W20 knowing there is a very little chance my car has a hidden leak? Or should I play safe with conventional oil knowing it's not the best protection in cold weather.

Both are good and bad.
.



Make the switch. If the original owner did it by the book and changed the oil based on the recommended OCI of the manufacturer, then it's unlikely that the engine is dirty and that the dirt is clogging a leak that will be exposed by the cleaning power of synthetic oil.

0w-20 or 5w-20 SynPower, Quaker State Ultimate Durability, Pennzoil Platinum, M1, they all have excellent cold temperature properties and any of them will protect your vehicle just fine. I like Quaker State Ultimate Durability simply b/c it's a quality oil with a lot of certifications, yet it's usually a couple bucks cheaper than the other ones I listed. But you really can't go wrong with any quality/brand-name oil, so pick the one you like best.


Ok that convince me, I will do the switch. Interesting, I never thought of Quaker State UD. A lot of store sales it here.

Also some cars are known to get issue with engine seals at high mileage. With my Sentra 2001, I switched to synthetic at 100K miles and did get engine leaks afer a year. But according to a local engine specialist, there were some many Sentra of those years having the same issue that it did not make any sense to put the blame on oil. The weak gasket was the issue.

 

[beadvised]

BE ADVISED YUNGSTER! If it's not broke don't fix it! Run Pennzoil Conventional or Mobil Super 5000 and forget about it. Use with confidence and sleep well at night. Another great post by BE ADVISED

 

[ThirdeYe]

Originally Posted By: beadvised
BE ADVISED YUNGSTER! If it's not broke don't fix it! Run Pennzoil Conventional or Mobil Super 5000 and forget about it. Use with confidence and sleep well at night. Another great post by BE ADVISED

 

[dblshock]

Cheapest 5/20 or 5w30 7.5k OCI and 15K FCI like the sig..oem trans juice 3 qt. 30k.

cold here too.

 

[virginoil]

Originally Posted By: EdwardC
Other than cost, there's no reason you shouldn't run a synthetic 0W20. If it starts to leak, you have a leak, you can go back to conventional to mask it or fix the leak.


Not so, Once a leak starts it may become difficult to stop pending the condition of the seal.

Why not use the genuine Honda 0w-20 ?.

Most 5w-20 are thin enough and these I have viewed have a pour point around -36deg C or lower.

Does your operating climate get colder than this ?

Do not over think this one.

Try this link from Honda re Regular v SYN oil

http://www.wildehonda.com/engine-oil--synthetic-vs-regular.htm

 

[EdwardC]

Originally Posted By: virginoil
Originally Posted By: EdwardC
Other than cost, there's no reason you shouldn't run a synthetic 0W20. If it starts to leak, you have a leak, you can go back to conventional to mask it or fix the leak.


Not so, Once a leak starts it may become difficult to stop pending the condition of the seal.

Why not use the genuine Honda 0w-20 whether is semi syn or Full Synthetic is immaterial.

Most 5w-20 are thin enough and these I have viewed have a pour point around -36deg C or lower.

Does your operating climate get colder than this ?

Do not over think this one.


I see your point and can see how that might be true, but even in that case, I wouldn't say that the new oil caused the leak, if anything, it was the previous 100k that caused the lead.

I personally wouldn't expect the car to leak, and I would want to use the 0W20 for the cold start protection and easier cold starts.

But to your point, replacing a seal is WAY more expensive than running conventional 5W20 instead of synthetic.

 

[Tiboi]

Originally Posted By: virginoil

Why not use the genuine Honda 0w-20 ?.

Hi, honda doesn't publish their engine oil specs. I'm a technical person and I like to know what I am buying. If you know a web site that provide the specs, let me know please

 

[3800Series]

I would use Valvoline. You have two options if you choose to use it SYNpower and MaxLife. I prefer MaxLife. At $21 a jug near me I can pick them up cheap. They also have a $7 rebate which isn't much but its cheaper and a $6 off coupon which you can virtually find year round if you look online.

 

[virginoil]

Originally Posted By: Tiboi
Originally Posted By: virginoil

Why not use the genuine Honda 0w-20 ?.

Hi, honda doesn't publish their engine oil specs. I'm a technical person and I like to know what I am buying. If you know a web site that provide the specs, let me know please

You trust Honda enough to make a vehicle and for you to purchase it.

Did you check out the specs of the engine, transmission, braking system, maintenance regime etc for durability, performance in the snow or desert, running on low fuel, towing, and other extreme conditions, work out when the right time to replace the timing belt etc ?

So your logical implies that you do not trust Honda to make the correct spec of oil for the vehicle you purchased from it and you need a spec.

Honda makes its own oil and puts its seal of approval on it to help take out the homework or rather guess work by owners and this is not good enough.

Hmmm if I had the Honda oil specs I would provide these to you. I have posted this as this thinking is typical of some members believing that they can out smart the OEM.

I can understand your frustration in pursuing the quest for the "best oil".

I fell for the same illusion when I first joined this site.

However over the last 4 years I am beginning to better under the OEM guidelines and reasons for it. I am over the illusion that BITOG knowledge will empower me to select the ultimate oil above the OEM approved oil or OEM recommendation.

Some may claim the OEM spec is a minimum standard that may be so. However, how you maintain the vehicle, drive the vehicle, servicing of the vehicle in extreme conditions of use etc has far greater bearing on the vehicle life that the quality of the oil alone.

I have said it before do not over think this one unless you love this over thinking and it provides you pleasure and gives you the BUZZ and JEST for life etc IMO

 

[virginoil]

Originally Posted By: Tiboi
Originally Posted By: virginoil

Why not use the genuine Honda 0w-20 ?.

Hi, honda doesn't publish their engine oil specs. I'm a technical person and I like to know what I am buying. If you know a web site that provide the specs, let me know please

Here is a VOA from the BITOG site about as close as you are going to get to a spec. Click on the link below.

After you open the link there is another link to click onto to open in the first paragraph as it has another VOA by Terry Dyson who a runs a Lab and who was former active member for a number of years on this Forum.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3073218/1

 

[Tiboi]

Originally Posted By: virginoil

Here is a VOA from the BITOG site about as close as you are going to get to a spec. Click on the link below.

After you open the link there is another link to click onto to open in the first paragraph as it has another VOA by Terry Dyson who a runs a Lab and who was former active member for a number of years on this Forum.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3073218/1


Thanks