A25A FXS oil

Sacredheals

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I am trying to avoid the ring stick issue on Toyota engines and keep it as clean as possible... I know for the most part any HPL oil works but I was wondering if any of the experts want to weigh in...

I did message David and he said the Supercar oil would be fine, which I know is basically just a Euro oil at the end of the day which I was picking between the 0W30 and 0W40 for higher HTHS ... I was wondering if there would be any benefit of running say the 5W30 or 10W30 Euro no VII or even another series of their oil? My biggest concern is engine cleanliness especially piston ring cleanliness... I've been doing 3K intervals with Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 0w40 recently and it's been doing fine but I know there is better than that with how easy that oil shears. I also like the Valvoline Restore and Protect but I wish it came in a thicker 5W40 weight to account for shear.

Edit: For more info, I can drive long distance and many miles a LOT, I rarely do short distance driving, and the lowest the temp gets when I drive is right about at the 0F mark.. So using heavier oils is not a concern for me at all.
 
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You can run Valvoline Restore and Protect to clean the piston rings.

I'm currently running Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 (summer towing season) in my A25A Rav4. I'll change to 0W-20 in a few weeks since I already have that in my garage, and run that over the winter. I do 5K mile oil and filter changes. I'm thinking of switching to Valvoline Restore and Protect for a few oil changes when my current stash of Pennzoil is used up, just to keep things clean.
 
You can run Valvoline Restore and Protect to clean the piston rings.

I'm currently running Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 (summer towing season) in my A25A Rav4. I'll change to 0W-20 in a few weeks since I already have that in my garage, and run that over the winter. I do 5K mile oil and filter changes. I'm thinking of switching to Valvoline Restore and Protect for a few oil changes when my current stash of Pennzoil is used up, just to keep things clean.
Oh yeah I know Valvoline Restore and Protect works, It's just that I assume it shears a lot quicker than say HPL or any higher end thicker oil and that's why I wish they just made a thicker version of it.


It'd be an absolute steal in a 5W40 or thicker blend.
I also want to support HPL for being an amazing company.
 
Even if Mobil 1 0w-40 shears to 3.4 hths worst case which won't in that engine that's still more than plenty over the 2.3 of 0w-16. At 3k intervals you'd be fine continuing to use 0w-40 and it does some cleaning.

HPL is better than Mobil 1 and supercar is great lineup but it's just an NA toyota engine you could use a cheaper hpl line and still be great. I'd use the 5w-30 since and 3.5 hths is still plenty for a 2.3 hths minimum engine. 5w-40 has a nice hths.

https://www.advlubrication.com/products/heavy-duty-motor-oil?variant=31322359005207
https://www.hplubricants.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/HD-Engine-Oil-PDS.pdf
 
If you consider oil you can buy at say WM, I'd suggest Mobil 1 ESP 0w-20 or 0w-30 for winter and you can alternate with Valvoline Restore and Protect 5w-30 in summer to both bump viscosity a bit and to run a cleaning cycle. Are those engines prone to sludging up?
 
Even if Mobil 1 0w-40 shears to 3.4 hths worst case which won't in that engine that's still more than plenty over the 2.3 of 0w-16. At 3k intervals you'd be fine continuing to use 0w-40 and it does some cleaning.

HPL is better than Mobil 1 and supercar is great lineup but it's just an NA toyota engine you could use a cheaper hpl line and still be great. I'd use the 5w-30 since and 3.5 hths is still plenty for a 2.3 hths minimum engine. 5w-40 has a nice hths.

https://www.advlubrication.com/products/heavy-duty-motor-oil?variant=31322359005207
https://www.hplubricants.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/HD-Engine-Oil-PDS.pdf
My consideration is the fact that sometimes that car is driven 12+ hours a day which is why I wanted to make sure it was extremely shear stable. Also why the HDEO? The reason I was looking at the 0W40 is for the thicker operating temp but good flow, and I was considering the 10W30 just because of that shear viscosity and I assume it'd just thicken from there being HPL.
 
If you consider oil you can buy at say WM, I'd suggest Mobil 1 ESP 0w-20 or 0w-30 for winter and you can alternate with Valvoline Restore and Protect 5w-30 in summer to both bump viscosity a bit and to run a cleaning cycle. Are those engines prone to sludging up?
Yeah if I was buying off shelf my idea is to either stick to Mobil 1 0W40 year round or just run the 5W30 Valvoline Restore and Protect because the car isn't short trip driven, so the thin oil is really just not needed at all. That oil gets plenty hot practically every day.
 
My consideration is the fact that sometimes that car is driven 12+ hours a day which is why I wanted to make sure it was extremely shear stable. Also why the HDEO? The reason I was looking at the 0W40 is for the thicker operating temp but good flow, and I was considering the 10W30 just because of that shear viscosity and I assume it'd just thicken from there being HPL.
It's dual use. There are no diesel 0w-12 or 16 engines just gas but it's designed for both and would work in yours. I've been using diesel oil in my gas engines for over a decade straight but used it periodically before then. A lot of euro and diesel additives are similar and if you didn't know Mobil 1 0w-40 and whatever other 0/5w-40 are also meant to be used in diesel engines. Mobil 1 0w-40 has api cf, MB 229.3 and 229.5 and VW 503.01 and 505 which are all diesel specs.
 
Yeah if I was buying off shelf my idea is to either stick to Mobil 1 0W40 year round or just run the 5W30 Valvoline Restore and Protect because the car isn't short trip driven, so the thin oil is really just not needed at all. That oil gets plenty hot practically every day.
I'm not sure if it's a good idea to go with that much thicker (0w-40) oil and especially if it's a full SAPS oil.
 
Are there known ring issues with this engine? I’ve yet to see anyone with this newer Dynamic Force engine have oil burning issues.

I probably know of 10-20 people with this engine, no oil burning so far. I’m at 128k on 0w16 and haven’t had any oil burning yet.

I’m not a fan of a 40wt engine oil in this application. I also don’t see any point in going HPL if you’re doing 3k OCIs.

These engines are spaced down to a 0w8. If you’re worried about shear with a 30wt wt, it’ll shear down to a thicker oil than spec.

There’s a guy on Reddit who had 450k miles on his A25A-FXS with no oil burning or ring issues.
 
It's dual use. There are no diesel 0w-12 or 16 engines just gas but it's designed for both and would work in yours. I've been using diesel oil in my gas engines for over a decade straight but used it periodically before then. A lot of euro and diesel additives are similar and if you didn't know Mobil 1 0w-40 and whatever other 0/5w-40 are also meant to be used in diesel engines. Mobil 1 0w-40 has api cf, MB 229.3 and 229.5 and VW 503.01 and 505 which are all diesel specs.
Yeah sorry I should’ve been more specific. I don’t see the point in going hdeo over just using euro spec oils.
 
Are there known ring issues with this engine? I’ve yet to see anyone with this newer Dynamic Force engine have oil burning issues.

I probably know of 10-20 people with this engine, no oil burning so far. I’m at 128k on 0w16 and haven’t had any oil burning yet.

I’m not a fan of a 40wt engine oil in this application. I also don’t see any point in going HPL if you’re doing 3k OCIs.

These engines are spaced down to a 0w8. If you’re worried about shear with a 30wt wt, it’ll shear down to a thicker oil than spec.

There’s a guy on Reddit who had 450k miles on his A25A-FXS with no oil burning or ring issues.
I mean known as in I know someone or something? No but I know with the recent history of Toyota engines I don’t want to find out for myself. And again I want to use thicker oil because of the fact it can see 200-400 miles in a day and that’s no where near rare for this car so having the thicker oil is more suited than not. And 10w30 is specced for this car in Australian manuals up to 0F

The shortest trips this car sees are 10 miles one way and I go out of my way to make sure it gets to temp doing that by turning the heat on which forces the car to run until operating temp with the fan manually turned down all the way. I care about the longevity of the engine over all else
 
I mean known as in I know someone or something? No but I know with the recent history of Toyota engines I don’t want to find out for myself. And again I want to use thicker oil because of the fact it can see 200-400 miles in a day and that’s no where near rare for this car so having the thicker oil is more suited than not. And 10w30 is specced for this car in Australian manuals up to 0F

The shortest trips this car sees are 10 miles one way and I go out of my way to make sure it gets to temp doing that by turning the heat on which forces the car to run until operating temp with the fan manually turned down all the way. I care about the longevity of the engine over all else
The RAV4 I was referencing saw 450k miles in less than 5 years with 0w16. I don’t exactly get the more suited due to driving more. I would expect quite the opposite.
 
I've been doing 3K intervals with Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 0w40 recently and it's been doing fine but I know there is better than that with how easy that oil shears.
There is better but it holds up pretty well to shear. Just starts out relatively thin for a 40 grade. I would not stress about it on a hybrid toyota...

If the motor doesn't consume oil I would just stick to whatever decent product you can get locally for a good price. Mobil 1 euro, PUP/PPE... Doubt you're getting fuel dilution either with that many miles in a day.
 
I am trying to avoid the ring stick issue on Toyota engines and keep it as clean as possible... I know for the most part any HPL oil works but I was wondering if any of the experts want to weigh in...

I did message David and he said the Supercar oil would be fine, which I know is basically just a Euro oil at the end of the day which I was picking between the 0W30 and 0W40 for higher HTHS ... I was wondering if there would be any benefit of running say the 5W30 or 10W30 Euro no VII or even another series of their oil? My biggest concern is engine cleanliness especially piston ring cleanliness... I've been doing 3K intervals with Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 0w40 recently and it's been doing fine but I know there is better than that with how easy that oil shears. I also like the Valvoline Restore and Protect but I wish it came in a thicker 5W40 weight to account for shear.

Edit: For more info, I can drive long distance and many miles a LOT, I rarely do short distance driving, and the lowest the temp gets when I drive is right about at the 0F mark.. So using heavier oils is not a concern for me at all.

I wouldn't run a 40-weight oil in that engine. If spending the money doesn't bother you stick with the HPL, it is by far the best of what you are talking about. Being from Nebraska, like me, and your main concern is the ring deposits, I would run the Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 year-round. You can run that oil in your engine from off the showroom floor new until you wear the car out. Change your oil every 3-5 thousand miles or 6 months. You can order Valvoline oils directly from them off their website. The more you order, the lower the cost. Otherwise, a couple other options would be Mobil 1 ESP 0w30 or Castrol Edge Euro 0w-30. If you stick to the oci I mentioned here, shear on that engine isn't an issue. According to the people that made that engine, you can run 0W-16 for 10,000 miles or 1 year. I personally would never do that, but my point is shear isn't an issue when starting off with a 30 weight. You already know this probably, but if you are into the higher end, higher dollar oils there is also Red Line oil and Amsoil out there. We have our own Amsoil rep here, being @Pablo .
 
I wouldn't run a 40-weight oil in that engine. If spending the money doesn't bother you stick with the HPL, it is by far the best of what you are talking about. Being from Nebraska, like me, and your main concern is the ring deposits, I would run the Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 year-round. You can run that oil in your engine from off the showroom floor new until you wear the car out. Change your oil every 3-5 thousand miles or 6 months. You can order Valvoline oils directly from them off their website. The more you order, the lower the cost. Otherwise, a couple other options would be Mobil 1 ESP 0w30 or Castrol Edge Euro 0w-30. If you stick to the oci I mentioned here, shear on that engine isn't an issue. According to the people that made that engine, you can run 0W-16 for 10,000 miles or 1 year. I personally would never do that, but my point is shear isn't an issue when starting off with a 30 weight. You already know this probably, but if you are into the higher end, higher dollar oils there is also Red Line oil and Amsoil out there. We have our own Amsoil rep here, being @Pablo .
Yeah I am trying to stick to the highest HTHS possible for the piston rings, I don't want any issues with ring deposits so having the higher HTHS should help with that. I am sure at the end of the day any HPL oil works I am just trying to figure out exactly the differences between all their oils since they don't do the best job on the website explaining that.
 
There is better but it holds up pretty well to shear. Just starts out relatively thin for a 40 grade. I would not stress about it on a hybrid toyota...

If the motor doesn't consume oil I would just stick to whatever decent product you can get locally for a good price. Mobil 1 euro, PUP/PPE... Doubt you're getting fuel dilution either with that many miles in a day.
Well to be clear I want to up it to 5K miles from pretty consistently 3K miles or less before. Yes it's still a "premium oil" but if I do trips across country I would push it past 5K if I had HPL oil also.
 
I am trying to avoid the ring stick issue on Toyota engines and keep it as clean as possible... I know for the most part any HPL oil works but I was wondering if any of the experts want to weigh in...

I did message David and he said the Supercar oil would be fine, which I know is basically just a Euro oil at the end of the day which I was picking between the 0W30 and 0W40 for higher HTHS ... I was wondering if there would be any benefit of running say the 5W30 or 10W30 Euro no VII or even another series of their oil? My biggest concern is engine cleanliness especially piston ring cleanliness... I've been doing 3K intervals with Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 0w40 recently and it's been doing fine but I know there is better than that with how easy that oil shears. I also like the Valvoline Restore and Protect but I wish it came in a thicker 5W40 weight to account for shear.
That is not a concern. Years ago perhaps, but today's formulation has been shown on here and elsewhere to be using VII that are highly shear resistant. I use it in my old 1MZ-FE with gear driven camshafts and I do not see this problem. Exxon-Mobil does not use cheap VM.

The oil has multiple approvals that require stay-in-grade performance. It is one of the best oils available anywhere and is inexpensive at Walmart.
 
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