99 VW/Audi 2.0L gas 4 cylinder M1/LubeControl 9600 miles

Status
Not open for further replies.
quote:

If an oil thickens it is no different than if it thins. It is out of grade. There is no rather have it thicken or have it thin, out of grade is just that. BUT, if an oil is out of grade and the wear metals and insoluables remain good, and the TBN is solid, it is not a real concern. JMO

Completely agree. It doesn't make a difference. I think Patman is thinking that he wants the oil to thicken bc thicker oils show better in LS1 engines. I'm not so sure you can draw that conclusion bc thickening from oxidation doesn't mean the HT/HS # goes up either. And I also don't think that generalization can be applied to all engines. And like Vetteman said, if the wear metals are good and TBN also, it doesn't matter.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Terry:
More LC and a fresh filter or change out. I can't decide.

It's nice to know that even the Guru is indecisive at times.
grin.gif


Thanks for the informative lesson.
patriot.gif
 
quote:

Originally posted by Bugzii:
[QB]
Yes this is the 2.0L VW/Audi New Bug engine that was run about 18 miles or so with no (0) coolant. Yes, started and stopped between stores and mall until daughter realized something smelled HOT while idling at gas station.

Hmmmm... I had a 2000 2.0 NB and currently own a '01 1.8T NB since new. These cars have a coolant sensor in the expansion tank. If the level drops below 1/2, the red temp warning light in the instrument cluster should trigger as well as the warning buzzer, which is very loud. VW knew that a lot of air-heads (like me) would be buying these cars, so they designed the buzzer to be very loud and high-pitched to get the clueless driver's mental process rollin'!
wink.gif


I'm assuming the sensor is not working.
 
quote:

Originally posted by buster:

quote:

If an oil thickens it is no different than if it thins. It is out of grade. There is no rather have it thicken or have it thin, out of grade is just that. BUT, if an oil is out of grade and the wear metals and insoluables remain good, and the TBN is solid, it is not a real concern. JMO

Completely agree. It doesn't make a difference. I think Patman is thinking that he wants the oil to thicken bc thicker oils show better in LS1 engines.


Exactly, if my GC ended up going from 12.2 to 14.2 cst, that wouldn't bother me as much as if it went from 12.2 to 10.2. The LS1 engine definitely seems to like a thick 30 to mid 40wt oil.
 
Bugzii, the teen daughter didn't mention that warning going off, I have seen but not heard it post "event" when we added the new coolant and LC.


How would you guys control the nitration in addition to the vis increase ? Without changing the oil ? In your opinions would you change the oil filter ? Why ?

Whimsey is voting to continue.
 
I don't see how 1 cSt up or down is a big deal. In fact, it's not even 1 cSt higher. I go by a % change, not grade. I'd change the filter add a bit of fresh oil and run it until the TBN is about 2. This oil can run for awhile yet. Let it roll.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Terry:

Suggestions from BITOG peanut gallery on continuing this oil ( with chemical/filter updates) or change out ?


If you want peanut gallery comments, might I ask why a seemingly bulletproof design of an engine was swapped so prematurely?

VW does make the odd bad motor, bad drivers do exist, and maintenance accidents do happen, but 70k from the original engine does sound pretty bad. I only have to assume that you and/or your daughter definitely were not the original owners, or that something unpredictable and catastrophic happened such as an accident or a timing belt failure.
 
Since you got me hooked on longer OCI's with LC and FP I think it's only fair that you do the same
grin.gif
. By my unexperienced eye it looks like the oil in general is holding up pretty well with the LC and "some" FP usage
rolleyes.gif
. My question would be will leaving the lead "soaked" oil in "hurt" the engine. Though I guess if you eliminated or lessened the reasons for the lead wear #'s it shouldn't get much worse
dunno.gif
. Go for it
wink.gif
!

Whimsey
 
quote:

Originally posted by Terry:
...25 ounces of LC in engine...

How much is in the oil? Remainder in the coolant?
Did you add it to the oil all in one shot, or over time? What were the dosages and intervals?


Here's my input from the cheap seats. Change the oil and the filter...no tellin' when the kid will bring the car around for servicing again. Then again if the vehicle resides with you, run it out as far as you think it will go. It's fun to watch the Master at work.
grin.gif
 
Terry, If your daughter made freq. stops that too may have helped. Even with old gasket tech. you could normaly drive a long way with no coolant if you did not let the car overheat warping the heads and or destroying the gasket. The trick in an emergency situation is to drive 2 miles shut the engione down and let it cool. Drive 2 miles shut it down etc........

I am guessing that the people that rebuilt that engine used MLT gasket. MLT is a Metalic Laminet gasket. Most modern engines use these. With this type of gasket you preety much have to warp the head in order for it to fail. I would keep an eye on this the next two oil changes!!

P.S. Check the torque spec again on the head bolts on an over heat with aluminum this is critical!!!!
 
quote:

If you want peanut gallery comments, might I ask why a seemingly bulletproof design of an engine was swapped so prematurely?

Original owner,( female college student) tired of adding oil,after she had driven over a raised concrete parking stop and damaged the oil pan. Basically ran it dry. Her comment to the last Father ( sucker) was "why add oil it just uses it up and needs more"
confused.gif


Thus the NEW ( not rebuilt) engine from VW. John would that be a MLT gasket from VW ?

I have not checked the head bolt torque as analysis is not indicating the need but based on Johns comments I just might.

The LC was added at oil change @ 8 ounces, thence the 1 to 3 ounce per 1000 miles when I could get to it.

12 ounces of LC was installed tonight no other changes.

Will post the follow up analysis in the near future.

Thanks for the excellent insights !
 
Let's start a pool to see how long Terry will keep this oil and filter on the car before he starts to "sweat" too much
grin.gif
. Whoever comes the closest "wins". My money is on 15,500 miles
wink.gif
: .

Whimsey
 
quote:

I "think" Amsoil has oxidation issues internally

Terry, 'internally' - the formulation of
the oil tends to
oxidize itself
(oxidize against itself)
or
the formulation is
susceptible to oxidation
from the combustion process?
 
Bill, in ASTM D4742 oxidation resistance testing Amsoil ATM can go 160 minutes.

M1,RL,RP and others tested exceeded the 300 minute max.

Thats clean oil mind you.
 
Pabs and Buster.

That data was from our OWN sourced testing dated Nov 30th 2000. The lab was not aware of the brand of the oils and ran a complete battery of tests including D 4742. Amsoil ATM 10w-30 SH CF GF1.

Old yes, but nothing false about it.

I can't speak to the Amsoil sourced testing from Amsoils website.

I am happy to see ATM being reformulated if that testing is accurate.

I would be happy to sell the whole results for anyone to review.

Terry
 
quote:

Old yes, but nothing false about it.

With the constant reformulation that goes on nothing surprises me. A little thickening is ok by me, as long as wear #'s are good I'm happy.
smile.gif


Do you have an data on RL's high wear numbers other then what is one BITOG?
dunno.gif
 
quote:

Originally posted by buster:

Do you have an data on RL's high wear numbers other then what is one BITOG?
dunno.gif


Sure he doesn't. Anybody doing oil analysis for a living wouldn't possibly have data like that!
lol.gif
 
Buster, What are you asking for ??

I only have "old false data" that I can name the source for ????
confused.gif


Sorry Pabs that still cracks me up !
cheers.gif
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom