Good question, not sure how the computer differentiates. Guessing, I'd say it looks at data from all four wheels and figures out what's going on, as it does with stability control. Or maybe there's a threshold for the speed differential and the computer "knows" a relatively small differential is a tight turn.
96 Subaru Outback- is this normal for these cars?
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It's possible that there's a power steering pressure sensor which feeds into the computer. Tight turns = more pressure.
Thanks for all replies. I have yet to get a chance to drive the car to see exactly how bad it is. He's supposed to bring it over this weekend and we'll put on the lift to change oil, etc, then take for a drive.
bmwtechguy, I have a two Subaru's. Vehicle 1, 96 Legacy automatic, is a little tight in the sharp turns, I have to gas it a little to get it going if the wheel is turned sharply. It doesn't make any noise or seem like it's sticking. I'd say it might feel like the brakes are on if you're used to driving a front or rear wheel drive only vehicle. Vehicle 2, 00 Outback automatic, doesn't seem to hang up or bind at all even in the sharp turns. I think the 96 handles better in the snow than the 00.
I think the hill holder device mentioned is only on the manual trans models.
I've heard that driving in tight figure 8's in a parking lot might help unstick things?
On both vehicles, I run Mobil 1 Syn ATF in the trans and Amsoil 75W90 severe gear in the front and rear differentials; seems to work very well.
For awhile I had a '03 Explorer 4wd automatic, and with the 4wd set to 'auto' it would make all kinds of grinding noises in snow if the wheels were spinning, I guess from it controlling power to the wheels. In 'auto' 4wd it would spin all four tires in the snow. In 4wd hi or lo it would only spin one on the front and an opposite one on the rear.
-Louis
I think the hill holder device mentioned is only on the manual trans models.
I've heard that driving in tight figure 8's in a parking lot might help unstick things?
On both vehicles, I run Mobil 1 Syn ATF in the trans and Amsoil 75W90 severe gear in the front and rear differentials; seems to work very well.
For awhile I had a '03 Explorer 4wd automatic, and with the 4wd set to 'auto' it would make all kinds of grinding noises in snow if the wheels were spinning, I guess from it controlling power to the wheels. In 'auto' 4wd it would spin all four tires in the snow. In 4wd hi or lo it would only spin one on the front and an opposite one on the rear.
-Louis
bmwtechguy,
When checking the oil and trans fluid, be sure to check the front diff fluid as well. On my 1997 Legacy, there is a yellow dipstick for the front diff virtually hidden near the middle-rear of the engine compartment on top of the transaxle. The last time I checked it (which was the first time ever
), it was a little bit low, so I added some gear oil.
You can easily eyeball the rear diff to get a quick feel as to whether it looks like it's losing any fluid.
When checking the oil and trans fluid, be sure to check the front diff fluid as well. On my 1997 Legacy, there is a yellow dipstick for the front diff virtually hidden near the middle-rear of the engine compartment on top of the transaxle. The last time I checked it (which was the first time ever
You can easily eyeball the rear diff to get a quick feel as to whether it looks like it's losing any fluid.
i jacked up my dads 96 legacy outback this weekend to have a look and see if i could figure anything out. the 4 wheel drive system appears to me to be nothing more than a conventional 3 diff fulltime setup with atleast 1 limited slip (or viscous) diff (the center one) and possibly the front and rear as well. i cant tell for sure, seems like there is alot of drag on the drivetrain when i try to spin a wheel up in the air by hand while in neutral. if that is because of a limited slip or viscous, then its probably normal.
in theory, with 1 wheel off the ground and the trans in gear with the clutch depressed, i should be able to spin 1 wheel by hand and the transmission input shaft whieh goes to the clutch should spin. this is correct as i have verified with my dad pushing the clutch in while i spin the whele by hand.
i did not see any sensors besides the obvious abs ones on each driven wheel, axle, trans, diff, or anything. actually, besides obvious reverse light, neutral switch, vss, and a abs sensor per wheel, there is no connecting wires to any of the entire drive train assembly.
i would suspect that its probably a fully mechanical drivetrain setup, atleast on a 96 legacy outback anyways. i dont know about newer subarus or automatics.
by the way, i was at a junkyard and saw my old subaru i sold years ago there. it was a 83 vintage with a 2wd/4wd secondary selector and this is the cool part, my old subaru had a high/low range selection as well. kinda miss that car. guess the girl i sold it to got sick of it.
in theory, with 1 wheel off the ground and the trans in gear with the clutch depressed, i should be able to spin 1 wheel by hand and the transmission input shaft whieh goes to the clutch should spin. this is correct as i have verified with my dad pushing the clutch in while i spin the whele by hand.
i did not see any sensors besides the obvious abs ones on each driven wheel, axle, trans, diff, or anything. actually, besides obvious reverse light, neutral switch, vss, and a abs sensor per wheel, there is no connecting wires to any of the entire drive train assembly.
i would suspect that its probably a fully mechanical drivetrain setup, atleast on a 96 legacy outback anyways. i dont know about newer subarus or automatics.
by the way, i was at a junkyard and saw my old subaru i sold years ago there. it was a 83 vintage with a 2wd/4wd secondary selector and this is the cool part, my old subaru had a high/low range selection as well. kinda miss that car. guess the girl i sold it to got sick of it.
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