96/7 Jeep 4.0 Oil and filter.

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Guys, well my Sl2 the transmission blew, Im looking for another car, found a 96/7 Jeep 4Wd automatic. Went from 35Mpg to under 20.
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Well anyways, It has around 140K miles, I really want to use some kind of synthetic, but being it has so many miles, do not think i will, only because i guess there are know to have to rear main seal leaks...

Anyways, this is the first time i have a suv, and have no idea what wt oil to put in it, I dont think its not 5-20/30 as they seem a little thin, How would 10-30/5-40/10-40 do?? again, i may use like ST synthetic, but it takes around 6Qts total.. What is the correct filter size? I dont think i need to worry about an over sized one, and again what would be a good OCI? 3-4K miles on dino 5K on synthetic? Ok so all in all

-Best oil, Dino or syn
-Best Oil Wt summer/winter
-Oil Filter size/number
-OCI's

Thanks!!
 
Personally, on higher-mileage Jeep, I'd use slightly thicker 40-weight oils. A 5W-40 HDEO like Rotella T would be just about perfect for year-'round use.

Since you seem to like shorter OCI's, I'd go 7-8k miles on the oil. IF you can't easily get 5W-40, OR want to stick to 4-5k OCI's, I'd use any quality 10W-40 dino oil.
 
In my Jeeps, I use 5W30 in winter and 10W40/SAE30/15W40 in Summer. Typically, Jeep 2.5L/4.0L engines like a 40wt in the summer months, however, one of the best 4.0L UOA's I've seen was on older Havoline 10W30. Realistically, if you ran a 10W30 in summer I don't think it affect overall longevity, unless you plan to modify it and wheel hard (which I doubt).

Valvoline Premium conventional 5W30 actually has a pretty good pour point, which would be my choice for winter. I also like Quaker State oils, any of which would be a great choice. I would run any major brand 10W30 or 10W40 for summer. Actually, I just changed my F150 to Quaker State regular bulk 5W20 and it's nice and quiet.
 
The engine won't care. That's not to say that one oil over another may produce better numbers ..just that the thing will continue to run until the sun runs out of hydrogen on just about anything (not necessarily quietly- but
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).

How many miles do you do a year?

What is the daily service like?

These answers will dictate the sensibility of synthetics and what service intervals will work with either composition oil.

FL300
PH16
51068 Wix
EaO42
for filters (among others)
 
The 4.0 L is a 10/30 engine. I have run over 200k with 4.0's using Valvoline conventional 10/30. Don't waste your money on synthetics, the 4.0 will do fine on any good 10/30.
 
Any regular dino 10w30 will serve you just fine, as it has for a ton of Jeep 4.0 users. Some prefer to go to xw40 oils, and have had some sucess doing so. I even did so for a while. My routine is now whatever name brand 10w30 is cheap when I buy oil for the summer, and the same but with 5w30 in the winter. I've run wix and purolator filters with no complaints on mine. Currently running Citgo Supergard 10w30 with a Wix filter.
 
Oh, the 4.0l is truly a motor that will run on about any flavor or grade oil you throw at it. It really is not that picky...
 
Originally Posted By: Raceman
The 4.0 L is a 10/30 engine.


Depending on it's use.


It could run a 20wt too under certain conditions.
 
If you want a syn try..

PP 5w30
M1 TDT 5w40
RTS 5w40

run it out 6-8k depending on how the truck is beeing used and call it a day.
 
Quote:
Don't waste your money on synthetics, the 4.0 will do fine on any good 10/30.


No one should waste money on any synthetic unless it's spec'd from the factory.

You should only use synthetics if the OCI is long enough to make it pay in avoided costs/incidence of service intervals ..or the service is severe enough to warrant a synth.

This could mean a 3k/3m going to 6 months.
 
Originally Posted By: addyguy
Personally, on higher-mileage Jeep, I'd use slightly thicker 40-weight oils. A 5W-40 HDEO like Rotella T would be just about perfect for year-'round use.

Since you seem to like shorter OCI's, I'd go 7-8k miles on the oil. IF you can't easily get 5W-40, OR want to stick to 4-5k OCI's, I'd use any quality 10W-40 dino oil.


+1
 
I've been running 10W-30 in my 176K mile 4.0, without any problems. Doesn't burn any oil but does leak some, and the valves are a bit noisy on mine. My constant thrashing probably doesn't help things, either.

I'm going to replace all of the leaking gaskets soon (rear main, valve cover, oil filter o-ring) and then probably give some 10w-40 or 15w-40 a try.

Been using Purolator or Mopar filters, so far I've been happier with the Mopar.
 
Alright, thanks for the replies, I think i am going to go for Valvoline conventional 10/30, and maybe a MC filter if i can find on that fits.

I will change it like 4K miles..
 
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We have a '96 Grand Cherokee 4.0 with 145K on it and I use Valvoline MaxLife Semi-Syn 10w30 in spring through fall and 5w30 in winter. I believe this has a better add pack than the standard Valvoline dino has based on what I have read here. I use an oversized Motorcraft FL1A filter (adds about 1/3 to 1/2 a quart to the original 6 quart total capacity.) The results have been great so far with little to no makeup oil needed for 5K change intervals.

Andrew S.
 
I would think about running 10W-30 Valvoline MaxLife, runs on the thick side. But not too thick, as it doesn't get that hot here...
 
Oo, Okay, then i will use Valvoline MaxLife Semi-Syn 10w30 in spring through fall and 5w30 in winter. I will also use a Motorcraft FL1A, and go 5K-6K miles. That sounds like a very good combo. Thanks for that.
 
Another vote for the Motorcraft FL 1A, and any good oil 5/30, 10/40. 99 Cherokee has 162,000 miles.

The 2003 Wrangler uses the FL 1A, and i just started using Rotella 5-40 syn because I don't want to change it as often. 130,000 miles. neither use oil.

If yours is a Cherokee- a word of caution. Take the oil filler cap off right away. if you leave it on while you diddle around getting everything together for the oil change, it is difficult to get off.
Also, when you go to remove the oil filter, put a rag or piece of cardboard directly under the filter. If you loosen the filter and it falls from your hand, it could land on the starter/positive lead connection and start sparking and actually start burning. Did that twice.
 
Ohhh Man! I did not know that, Its a Regular Cherokee Se/Sport, thanks for both tips, that's all i would need, LOL, I'm afraid of electricity.....
 
Originally Posted By: Studebaker
If yours is a Cherokee- a word of caution. Take the oil filler cap off right away. if you leave it on while you diddle around getting everything together for the oil change, it is difficult to get off.


My '99 is the EXACT opposite. It is basically impossible to get the filler cap off when the engine is hot or even warm. I drain the oil, rotate the tires then drink a soda and hang around while the engine cools down, and then maybe 45-60 minutes later, the cap will come off. Before then, it just turns and makes a clicking sound.

Not disputing that yours is hard to get off when cold, but its weird that mines just the opposite.
 
I see no point in running a different filter than the OEM size. The miniscule increase in oil capacity isn't going to accomplish a thing. These engines already hold plenty of oil.

On all the Jeeps I've owned, I always used the Mopar 5281090. It's worked the best for me. Second choice would be a Baldwin B34.

I've never run any other viscosity but 10w30, and I usually use a synthetic or semi-synthetic. I change full syn at 7500 miles (the highest you can go on the driver information center) or 5000 miles on a syn-blend.

Right now I've been running Schaeffer Supreme 7000 (10w30 of course), with a 5000 mile OCI, and I'm pleased with the results.

x2 on the oil caps being a pain sometimes. Put a little bit of Sil-Glyde or similar lubricant on the cap's O-ring and it'll come off a little easier. Eventually it'll be time for a new cap though...The plastic ratchets in them only seem to last so long before they're junk and the cap comes off in 2 pieces.
 
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