94 Bronco full size making severe noise when idle

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I just bought a full size 94 Bronco with a 351 V8 3 days ago. I drove it around a few times and everything was working fine mechanically. I even put it in 4x4 to drive in the snow. Today, I put it in 4x4 and forgot to take it off 4x4 when I got out of the snow and ice. I drove in semi wet road at speed under 50 mph for about under 10 miles and notice a severe squeal and smoke came out under the hood. The coolant, oil, atf wasn't leaking and didn't leak when I drove it around before and left it park overnight. I stopped using the 4x4 on the way home and the noise is still there but only when I come to a stop and it goes away when I apply gas. The smoke is gone. The 4x4 still works because I had to put it in 4x4 when get up my driveway.

Upon looking under the hood, it seems the noise is coming from the pulley closest to the battery bay driving a belt. The sound is like a severe squeak like when a bicycle chain makes when it is bone dry, except this is louder and faster. Again, it goes away when I apply the gas.

Did I hurt my 4x4 by leaving it on too long. I know it can decrease the life span of 4x4 if I do it all the time but this was only for under 10 miles and the road was semi wet. from all the snow and rain we had.

Additionally, should I bring it to Peps Boy and have it look at. My mechanic friend is about 90 miles away and I don't want to drive that far when it can do more damage to the vehicle.

Help me out.

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The noise seems to come from the pulley show in the picture.
 
That's the A/C compressor clutch. See the wire behind it? Unplug it. See if the noise goes away.

I was going to guess pollution pump. They are notorious for seizing.

Anyways, if it is a belt, it has nothing to do with your 4x4 adventures. I drive the Expie in 4x4 a LOT. Did the same with my Explorer. Never managed to hurt anything. Trying to do tight turns on dry pavement is how you hurt them.
 
I'll unplug it in a few mins. I am trying to read up on different things that could go wrong. The smoke did scare me so I got extra coolant but coolant level was fine and the vehicle wasn't overheated. I just go it and it didn't come w/ a manual so I haven't had a chance to do fluid change. I just poured 2-3 quarts of coolant into the overfill container. The darn thing was definitely low.

4x4 still works because I used it to get up my hill, which is covered in deep snow.

Thanks again.
 
Don't worry about the smoke. If something is seizing and causing the belt to slip you'll get lots of it, and it stinks!

I had my pollution pump seize up, and it was an exciting adventure of smoke, stink, squealing and then no accessories, LOL
 
yes, it did stink like heck. It smelled like tire burning or brake overheating.

Like many Ford of this era, I only get the heat to blow out from the vent for the windshield and out the front and side vents. My buddy riding with me did try to get from air in by turning the knob in the dark. I don't remember if he did that before the smoke and noise or not.

Again, the smell and smoke went away on the trip back but the sound was there. Actually, there was no sound on the way to the restaurant.
 
I found out the culprit. The noise comes on when I use the fan in either A/C modes or fan mode to the face or mix. There is no noise when I use it in vent or floor mode.

I did disconnect the plug behind it but don't think I had the right fan setting on so I don't know if that would help. I notice the noise is actually from another area, more like up front now when I know what cause the noise. Disconnecting the wire didn't stop the belt and pulley from operation though.

Of course, there is also the usual squeak at low volume from the belt being not in spec but that is an easy fix if I have the tool and know how. I'll figure that one out.

I'll get a new windshield for it tomorrow so I can get it inspect at the end of February. That would be one less thing to worry about. Personally, I don't think the crack bother me but it will fail inspection for sure. Then I'll get it to work and do oil, atf, and coolant change.
 
When you unplug the AC compressor you're unplugging the clutch so the pulley and belt freewheel on the front. They just aren't getting dragged down by what's inside.

I bet you "fixed" it. AC is called for automatically on some HVAC settings like defrost.

And a 4WD pointer, if you are not PRESENTLY SPINNING your tires on pavement, even wet/snowy, leave it in 2WD. I know a few people who turn on 4WD on dry pavement just before making a 90 degree turn onto a dirt road or whatever and their trucks lurch horribly.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
I know a few people who turn on 4WD on dry pavement just before making a 90 degree turn onto a dirt road or whatever and their trucks lurch horribly.


Good way to snap a chain.
 
Originally Posted By: M1Accord
I found out the culprit. The noise comes on when I use the fan in either A/C modes or fan mode to the face or mix. There is no noise when I use it in vent or floor mode.

I did disconnect the plug behind it but don't think I had the right fan setting on so I don't know if that would help. I notice the noise is actually from another area, more like up front now when I know what cause the noise. Disconnecting the wire didn't stop the belt and pulley from operation though.

Of course, there is also the usual squeak at low volume from the belt being not in spec but that is an easy fix if I have the tool and know how. I'll figure that one out.

I'll get a new windshield for it tomorrow so I can get it inspect at the end of February. That would be one less thing to worry about. Personally, I don't think the crack bother me but it will fail inspection for sure. Then I'll get it to work and do oil, atf, and coolant change.


Probably the A/C compressor is seized. When you unplug that wire, it disables the clutch. Try cycling through the heat settings again, it shouldn't do it anymore.
 
Yep. It is the A/C compressor. I have the wire disconnected. For some reason, my butt-dyno tells me that I don't have as much power as before but the ride is smoother. Hopefully, the A/C compressor didn't die and only some minor part needs replacement. I should have know and cut the blower off.

Lesson learned: Never let anyone touch anything on your car. They are likely to [censored] it up. Not even a fan, radio, etc. Leave everything in off mode so you'll know what's the culprit if something not right pops up.
 
I think the real lesson (sorry) is if you have a 17 year old SUV with bad air conditioning, sell it in the winter.
 
I am sorry but the compressor is dead and if you don't fix it soon, everything else connected with the A/C system will need to be replaced if you ever want to have the A/C back again.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
I think the real lesson (sorry) is if you have a 17 year old SUV with bad air conditioning, sell it in the winter.


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Originally Posted By: onion
Originally Posted By: eljefino
I think the real lesson (sorry) is if you have a 17 year old SUV with bad air conditioning, sell it in the winter.


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Wow. And you guys are member of this forum. 17 years old Bronco is not old. Talk to Nick R or anyone throwing good money on a new car and come back here with the "high horse" attitude.

The A/C compressor wired is unplugged. I don't care for A/C anyway so I'll fix it when I get to it. This vehicle serves me well for the purpose I bought it for; 4x4 toy and emergency weather where I am needed at work as well as a large vehicle to haul stuffs with.
 
Only use the 4x4 on loose/slick surfaces, and wet doesn't count. Also, don't bet your life on the hubs if they're still the autos. I wouldn't even be sure they're still working until you've seen both front wheels break loose.
 
Originally Posted By: M1Accord
Originally Posted By: onion
Originally Posted By: eljefino
I think the real lesson (sorry) is if you have a 17 year old SUV with bad air conditioning, sell it in the winter.


01.gif



Wow. And you guys are member of this forum. 17 years old Bronco is not old. Talk to Nick R or anyone throwing good money on a new car and come back here with the "high horse" attitude.

The A/C compressor wired is unplugged. I don't care for A/C anyway so I'll fix it when I get to it. This vehicle serves me well for the purpose I bought it for; 4x4 toy and emergency weather where I am needed at work as well as a large vehicle to haul stuffs with.


17 years is old enough for [censored] near anything to go wrong, regardless of make or model. Broncos are some of the best when it comes to durability, but these trucks get rode hard and put up wet, and a lot can happen in 17 years.

If you don't need the A/C, just leave it unplugged, or get a shorter belt. I think they make pulleys to put in place of dead A/C compressors. If you do want A/C, just overhaul the whole system and you shouldn't have any more issues with it for a while.
 
The compressor in my Explorer seized up last summer. Cost me about $440 to fix. $150 of that was having a shop flush out the evaporator and recharging the system when I was done. I got a used compressor off eBay for $80 including shipping. The rest was brand new parts from Napa (with a GENEROUS employee discount), including lines/hoses, condenser, accumulator and orifice tube.

If your lines are in good shape and not leaking, you can flush them out and reuse them and save $100-140. But everything else MUST be replaced.
 
btw - its curious which air distribution modes made the noise. the default for no vaccum is in fact floor/vent. check the 'coffee cans' that serve as reservoirs for rust, might have a bad one.

oh, and sell it to me if you dont want it. If you do want it, I have an 87 XLT fullsize a hour ride from you that you can get for cheap and fix up as well or canniblize
 
I am keeping the Bronco dude. I just bought it a few days ago. It has no leak at all. I drove it for about 15 miles and park it in my clean garage for 2 days and not a drop. The body may not be in the best of shape but only spoiled kids or "high horse" care. I paid 1700 for it and that's mean I paid 40k less than someone would if they want something as capable off-road and hauling as this SUV. I can buy a old house on 2 acres in VA with that 40k saving.

I don't care for A/C, even in the summer of temperature reaching 100 degree. As long as the car is moving, I can power the rear window down and have a nice stream of fresh air coming in. A/C hurts performance and gas mileage in big vehicles like this anyway.

To high horses,

Again, talk to Nick R and I bet you that anyone with an ounce for brain would get off the high horse and wiser about car purchase(s).
 
Originally Posted By: calvin1
Only use the 4x4 on loose/slick surfaces, and wet doesn't count. Also, don't bet your life on the hubs if they're still the autos. I wouldn't even be sure they're still working until you've seen both front wheels break loose.


Could you explain why people are so fascinate with manual hub. Most modern 4x4 and even those in the same era have auto hub. I tested the 4x4 and it works fine. I just need to pull over and put it in Neutral. Some people say that is unnecessary but they don't have to pay for repair bills so they don't get to make the call. I put everything in Neutral first before any change in gear engagement or orientation. That is why there is a Neutral mode there. A lot of people skip that when shifting the slush box from Reverse to Drive or Vice Versa, doing it while the vehicle still in motion. I feel bad for those transmission.
 
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