700R4 Blowing Fluid Out the TV Cable

garageman402

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NorCal. USA
Hey, this trans has done this before and after the complete rebuild/upgrade. The vent is open and clear. My first observation is when draining the fluid (I have a pan with a drain plug) is that it glugs. Removing the dipstick alleviates this. Also if you refill it with more than 4 quarts before starting it, it will overflow out the tube. All this points to the vent being plugged, but it is open, the rebuilder confirmed.

Any thoughts?
 
Wrong dipstick? How high do you fill it ? What's kind of cooler? How hot is it getting?
Dipstick is correct. The full mark is at the oil pan flange. Filled to the full mark, hot, idling.

The cooler is the standard radiator cooler. GM trucks dump the heater return line into the cool tank right on top of the trans cooler. I re-routed the hose to the water pump. Trans rebuilder says that cooling method is more efficient than aftermarket coolers.

Engine temp stays in the low range, around 190.
 
Dipstick is correct. The full mark is at the oil pan flange. Filled to the full mark, hot, idling.

The cooler is the standard radiator cooler. GM trucks dump the heater return line into the cool tank right on top of the trans cooler. I re-routed the hose to the water pump. Trans rebuilder says that cooling method is more efficient than aftermarket coolers.

Engine temp stays in the low range, around 190.
Put it closer to the add mark when hot. See if that helps
 
There are 2 different Pump to Case gasket designs, A baffled design & a unbaffled design. Using a baffled gasket with a Pump Cover without a baffle support can result in a blocked vent opening in the back of the pump cover.

But it can be misleading when diagnosing this as the issue.....Introducing air pressure through the vent tube will make you think the vent is clear because the pressure moves the baffle out of the way, The baffle is acting as a one-way valve.....Air can be taken in but not expelled.

I would use a smoke machine & introduce smoke through the dipstick tube.....Smoke should freely exit the vent tube. You can also use regulated air pressure (3-4 psi) & air should freely flow through the vent tube!
 
I'm guessing this 700R4 is in your C30? The radiator mounted cooler isn't enough if you're pulling weight! The trans can completely melt down & not effect engine coolant temps!
 
I'm guessing this 700R4 is in your C30? The radiator mounted cooler isn't enough if you're pulling weight! The trans can completely melt down & not effect engine coolant temps!
Yes, it's in the C-30. We had issues with the first incarnation of this trans. Had the heater hose mounted in stock position, electric fans, and a failing fuel pump. Heading out of Bay Area (CA) to TX with a loaded cargo trailer, it wouldn't make it up the first pass. Got hot starving for fuel. We pushed on, babying it up various mountain passes, decided on I-10 as it's flatter (but still some pulls), finally just before Phoenix, we replaced the fuel pump along side the road. From then on, no issues. Brought it back to CA empty, no issues until I-35 stopped outside of San Antonio, then temp started rising. As long as we were moving, no problem. Yes, the fans were failing. Traffic stopped on the Grapevine due to a truck driver losing a trailer, but I kept it moving, still got hot. Vintage Air heater control valve not closing, so hot coolant from the heater core dumping right onto the trans cooler, not good. Fluid has been spitting out the TV cable. Made it back to CA where I removed the fans, installed a stock clutch fan, and routed the heater hose to the water pump like the BBC cars were. Pretty sure it had a high stall convertor, further adding to the heat. Drained the fluid numerous times, it "glugged" while draining, and overflowed if you tried to put more than 4 quarts in at time.

Later I drove the empty trailer out to a relative's place (about 80 miles) to load up the trailer with engines and other parts. On the way out there I pushed it pretty hard, figuring my cooling issues were fixed. I don't think I had re-routed the heater hose at that point, just installed clutch fan. Engine stayed cool. Just before I got there it wouldn't go into 4th (OD). Driving back home (loaded) we figured it wasn't shifting right, and better take it in before the trip to TX. Trans shop said the 3-4 clutch pack was toast. We wanted a 4L80, but couldn't find a core, and if we did it would be expensive, plus buying the computer to run it. After a month, still no core available, so I opted to beef the 700 (billet input shaft & drum, 5 planetary gearset from 4L65, etc). Regular convertor, now it creeps forward at idle, which it didn't do before. They checked the vent, said it was open and clear. It has the hydraulic lock-up in OD (DD too), they recommend NOT installing an electric lock-up due to heat issues. With the planetaries turning and the convertor unlocked, you're asking for an overheat. Also recommended staying in direct drive while towing.

Drove the fully loaded truck & trailer to TX, temp stayed cool the whole way, even climbing the Grapevine (5% grade for 5 miles). But still there is fluid on the manifold where the TV cable mounts. I called the shop who did the work, they said get it checked out here (TX) or maybe if it goes back to CA. So far I haven't. Haven't drained the fluid either, so I can't say if it glugs. With no load it runs and shifts excellent, still fluid on the manifold. I did keep it in direct drive for the most part, occasionally going to OD if downhill and/or tailwind.

The shop says the radiator cooler is the most efficient as it's water-to-fluid & an air-to-fluid cooler is not as efficient. Adding an aux. cooler adds more hoses and possible leakage, & not necessary. I asked if I should get a fluid temp gauge, he said no, that'll just scare you. LOL.

Thanks for the input, I'll call the shop and ask about the pump-to-case gasket.
 
Trucks have auxiliary trans coolers for a reason & if done right with AN/JIC fittings & reinforced hose you don't have to worry about leaks.
I'm not arguing that the radiator mounted cooler is inefficient or needs removed from the loop.

The whole a gauge will scare you is one of the silliest things I've heard.

As a test.....Drill a hole in the dipstick tube right below where the rubber boot seal sits, Then another hole right below where the dipstick seal sits. Like so....
KO0HbhN.jpg
 
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