700R4(4L60)

Most 4.3L converters are 1900-2000 RPM stall. If the converter clutch is in good shape...Reuse it.

Stock V8 converters run about 1500-1600 RPM & would be a little doggish off the line.

The S10 4.3 converter swap was the cheap high-stall “upgrade” members would do on the 5.0/5.7’s on a full-size Chevy forum I was on back in the day.
 
It's a low stall V8 converter, Haven't seen a low stall factory installed behind a 4.3L. I see the code got deleted in your post because the acronym it represents on the internet.
Yes my thoughts and feels low stall. But still somone claimed it to stall higher since it was a ”v6” converter wich I dont belive is correct after driving it. GM used them behind 4.3l in C/K 1500 pickups is the info I have found.
So a mid 90’s S10 4.3l 4l60e converter will be a budget solution? Like this rebuilt 1997 unit?

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The V6 700R4 has a shallower drum and a few other things. I put a SBC in a Toyota HiLux and 4Runner and a SBF in a old school Ranger with the tires tucked under the body back before I knew anything about Detroit Iron.

I had an engine sitting around that I had built to go into a NOVA and the seller backed out at the last minute. I was in college and tired of luging it around with me. So I put it in the Toyota.

I wanted to keep the Toyota Dual Transfer Case I had at the time as in I had two transfer cases stacked. At the time a early 1990's a company called Downey Offroad offered a kit to mate the stock Toyota transfer case to the back of a GM 700R4.

So I went and got a $50 700R4 core at the salavage yard and asked for one from a V8 1500 but they gave me one for a V6. The main difference that I recall when I went to build it was that I could not fit anywhere near the number of clutches and steels into the V6 drum. I ended up turning it on a lathe and even then it was not same as the V8 but it was a huge improvement.

So back then I had to delete the lockup converter, rework and force lube to the rear sprague and I think a busching and had to rework the valve body. I was running full welded band with kevlar material and I think Alto Red frictions. It was a ton of work. The Corvete servo will work in either version of the trans it is the clutches and steels that are radicaly different in how many you stuff in the stock drum and case etc. Up to that point Ihad never fully rebuilt an automatic and it took me 2 tries to get it right. I was an ASE Master Tech but I was never a transmission guy short of minor OEM delership level repairs.

If I was going to do it again I would recomend you rework the valve body with a Sonnax or Transgo kit. I would keep the lockup torque converter if it is a daily driver. I would definitely recomend the Corvette Servo and spring upgrade, governor spring and weight upgrade, max out the steels and clutches while staying within thrust specifications. Put a good converter on it and keep the fluid cool and changed. I like a manual valve body but not everyone does.

As far as OEM converters go I think the W ones from the 4.3 4x4 Jimmy/Blazer get you darn close to the Corvette Converter for the time but at like 1/2 the price.

This is all from memory from the early to mid 1990's Ihad to do all of this during Spring Break. I think I was using TCI parts back then. I am 53 now so I know I am missing some stuff. According to TCI the Kit I used was good for 700HP or 750HP. I was only putting about 400 through the transmission but I was putting to all 4 wheels freq. and racing from stop light to stop light and using it as a daily driver. In fact when my wife got pregnuant I put her and my first born son in it as their daily driver. Never had any issues with that transmission at all no matter what I did it was rock solid. The engine gave me some issues but never the transmission.
 
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