When I build ANY 4R100.....It gets a Multi Disc-Billet Front Cover converter, But most of the 4R100's I build are in overloaded Service Body Trucks.
6L80E Build
- Thread starter clinebarger
- Start date
When I build ANY 4R100.....It gets a Multi Disc-Billet Front Cover converter, But most of the 4R100's I build are in overloaded Service Body Trucks.
I'd rather bet on Cline than at a casino! The odds at the casino aren't stacked in your favour.
That is super interesting. I’ll check if my local shop can accommodate that and If not, find out will find out what they usually get for 6L units. I know they’ll only do what they are comfortable with. Rock Auto has TC and rebuilt GM units at good prices shipped to Canada.
456 Clutch assembly.....
That's new bearing under the Sun Gear as I don't trust bearings after a failure like this, The Planetary Carrier is in excellent shape though.
There are 2 Pistons.....One is a Apply Piston & the other is a Compensator Piston to force the clutch off when needed.
That's new bearing under the Sun Gear as I don't trust bearings after a failure like this, The Planetary Carrier is in excellent shape though.
There are 2 Pistons.....One is a Apply Piston & the other is a Compensator Piston to force the clutch off when needed.
That is super interesting. I’ll check if my local shop can accommodate that and If not, find out will find out what they usually get for 6L units. Rock Auto has TC and rebuilt GM units at good prices shipped to Canada.
Pump Assembly......
I didn't snap any pictures of checking Rotor & Slide clearances with a plastigage, Had to buy all 3 thicknesses from the dealer. GM should sell a complete assembly in my opinion, Is what it is I guess. Came out to .0016" for the Rotor & .0017" for the Slide which is near perfect!!
I didn't snap any pictures of checking Rotor & Slide clearances with a plastigage, Had to buy all 3 thicknesses from the dealer. GM should sell a complete assembly in my opinion, Is what it is I guess. Came out to .0016" for the Rotor & .0017" for the Slide which is near perfect!!
Finished up building the unit, Also got a Oil Pan gasket, Pickup Tube O-ring, Oil Cooler gasket, Rear Cover gasket, & Rear main seal.
If the owner had asked you to build this unit with all OE parts (and no upgrades), what would this job have costed?
I use a Ford Mod engine head bolt to lower the Rear Carrier & Output shaft into the case......
Lacing in the 1234/35Reverse Drum supposedly takes a special tool that grips around the drum & has a handle to rotate the drum.
I simply insert the drum & rotate the Output Shaft back & forth & the clutches lace themselves.
I simply insert the drum & rotate the Output Shaft back & forth & the clutches lace themselves.
Control Valve Body & TECHM......Lots of time spent taking every valve out & cleaning every spec of metal out. Surprisingly only 1 valve has hung open.
Hard to say as GM doesn't sell Bushings through any retailer, They'll sell you whatever component has a bushing preinstalled including the Transmission Case.
I used Borg Warner frictions which are 100% identical to the OE frictions, I can by them in a Module/Set through a Borg Warner dealer for a 1/4 of the price.
The Sonnax/KOYO bearing kit came in a big bag full of individually bagged AC Delco bearings.
And I bought the Pump, Pump Rotor kit, Stator, Filter, & Auxiliary cooler from the dealer.
One could likely buy a brand new unit trough GM Performance Parts cheaper than building one through GM Service Parts
She's all put back together & tuned. Test drove it @50 miles before doing the tuning as problems (Albeit VERY rare) can crop up after making calibration changes. I do this just to make sure everything is good before hand.....Like the TECHM still being in working order after this type of failure.
I did not reset the TECHM learned adaptive's as those got froze when the trans lost pressure & set PC Solenoid stuck off DTC's. The shift times shortened up nicely after some easy driving. Some WOT runs returned some nice crisp upshifts.
Diagnostic information will tell you to reset & do a "Quick Learn Procedure"......I rarely find the need to do this unless I replace the TECHM.
I did not reset the TECHM learned adaptive's as those got froze when the trans lost pressure & set PC Solenoid stuck off DTC's. The shift times shortened up nicely after some easy driving. Some WOT runs returned some nice crisp upshifts.
Diagnostic information will tell you to reset & do a "Quick Learn Procedure"......I rarely find the need to do this unless I replace the TECHM.
It's a GM trans lol.That is an obscene amount of metal
Great rebuild thread. Looks like the OE tranny pan does not have a drain plug. What are your thoughts on that? Do you install aftermarket at customer request or prefer not to deal with aftermarket pans here on the risk out weighing any benefits?
I don't care one way or the other, This one is due back in a year for a service that includes dropping the pan to clean the magnet & change the filter.
I simply run a tube down the dipstick tube & evacuate the pan much as possible to prevent making a mess.
If I'm after just a fluid change.....I'll pull a cooler line.
I simply run a tube down the dipstick tube & evacuate the pan much as possible to prevent making a mess.
If I'm after just a fluid change.....I'll pull a cooler line.
I've always done fluid exchanges by the cooler line every 30k. Pan drop and filter every 2-3 times. 270k+ miles on my 2004R that way.
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