5w30 or 5w20 ?

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Hello All,

My first oil change will be coming up on my new(certified used) kia forte it will have about 14000 miles on it by then. The car is driven on the high way at 70-80mph speeds primarily with little stop and go by my wife, on the weekends I drive the car, and sometimes I like a bit of a spirited run on curvy roads 5-6k rpm shifting max(only after it has had a chance to warm up).

In my manual it states i can use anything from 5w20-10w30. So I am at a loss, I have always used 5w30/10w30 in the past with decent results(gm vehicles), although all of my cars have ended up burning oil.
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I want to ensure a long life for my car, and hopefully keep it from ever being a oil burner(currently it doesn't lose a drop as far as the eye can see). I have a choice to make about wither I will run a 5w20 oil or a 5w30 oil. I have read tons of things about this topic and I am still at a loss. Some people seem to think 5w20 is only for CAFE requirements, and that it offers less protection than a modern 5w30. Others say a 5w30 will shear out of grade down to a 5w20.

I was curious as to if there is any hard evidence either way to help in making my decision. Currently I am determined to use Pennzoil conventional and follow the severe schedule for my car until it is out of warranty (3750 mile oci) all thats left is to chose the grade.

So please let me know your opinions, they are always appreciated and if you have a link or info to any hard general evidence I would love to see it.

Thanks!
 
it really doesn't matter when it comes down to it. sometimes walmart doesn't have 5w20 in the oil you want (pp comes to mind), so get 5w30 in that case.
 
5w-20. Revs faster, more power, better MPG. Engine wear wont be affected.

Not that you will notice any of these characteristics i just listed, but they will be there.
 
Originally Posted By: randomhero439
5w-20. Revs faster, more power, better MPG. Engine wear wont be affected.

Not that you will notice any of these characteristics i just listed, but they will be there.


I agree. However your driving habits aren't severe. Why not use a 0w20 in the winter to lessen start up wear and contribute to faster full power operation and then run a conventional in the summer where cold winter starts aren't a factor.

I suggest you go to the bitog home page and read the articles written by Dnewton,not Dr.Hass so much.
The good Dr has his heart in the right place though and his opinion is a good starting point Dnewton has thousands of used oil analysis' of which he compiled data and rendered his findings. He also has purchased some sae papers,paid for out of his own pocket and interpreted them so any member can understand the points he's making,and the conclusions the engineers came to.
I suggest reading dnewtons articles ASAP,then reconsider you're oil change interval schedule. You'll learn that more frequent oil changes actually accelerate wear on the front end of the oil change interval,and wear rates diminish significantly the longer you run the oil interval,until additive depletion of course.
You'll find that many of you're preconceived ideas about oil aren't even close.
Mandatory reading. Check back after and there will be a quiz.
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
This has to be about the one millionth thread with this subject line....


Give or take.
 
If the owner's manual says 5w20, you can use 5w20. But one question: does the owner's manual put a limit on ambient temperature for 5w20?
I suggest you run synthetic instead of conventional, though. I think it's more likely to resist long-term sludging or varnish formation. If you intend to keep the car for 150k+ miles, synthetics are a benefit in the long run.
Since your Forte is driven mostly on the highway, not stop and go driving, there is no need to change oil according to the severe schedule. What is the normal suggested change interval?
 
since the engine is warranteed for 100K, I would use the recommened grade and keep receipts - also change intervals as dictated by your servicing deale,r OTW, they (KIA) LOVE to deny coverage.++ I would have the dealer do some OCI so you get familiar with your local service managers/writers.

++ Kia tend to rec severre service where there is none - and that puts you into a bind for too frequent OCI.
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
since the engine is warranteed for 100K, I would use the recommened grade and keep receipts - also change intervals as dictated by your servicing deale,r OTW, they (KIA) LOVE to deny coverage.++ I would have the dealer do some OCI so you get familiar with your local service managers/writers.

++ Kia tend to rec severre service where there is none - and that puts you into a bind for too frequent OCI.


The part about Kia denying coverage is my reason for wanting to do the Severe OCI so they have no reason to deny coverage if I do file a claim, it seems pretty obvious that most think I should go with a 5w20 so I will do just that. My car falls almost pefectly in the normal schedule for OCI's but one little "Rule" my car does fall under is "Do they use salt or corrosive materials in your area" in the winter they do.. so i guess technically at least for the winter i fall under severe, how Kia reasons that this should effect a oil change I am not sure.. I would think the air filter would prevent any of that getting into the engine.
 
I'd given the choice I'd use 5W30 and follow severe service schedule. In my neck of the woods just about everyone falls under severe service so its a no brainer for me. Oil is still pretty cheap, fighting KIA on a warranty claim might not be cheap if they deny a claim. The severe service interval is harder for them to dispute if you have a problem, and using the recommended grade makes it even harder.
 
5w-20 since cooler season is near and 5,6 or 7k OCIs.
My 2.4L calls 3750 - severe, 7.5k - normal.
5w-30 if some triple digits temps are in is okay, but 5w-20 will be fine.
Stick to grades and API while in warranty.
OEM filters are good quality. (Some Hyundai/Kia have a filter TSB).

PP or PU should be fine. I was using PP, now trying Kendall, but will go back to PP or try PU (PU nice NOACK) after current fill.
 
There is no need to change weight summer/winter. 5W20 or 5w30 are both allowed so pick what one you like and go with it. 10w30 is an obsolete weight and has no use out of the HDEO world IMO.
 
I think your chances of having consumption long down the road are less with 5W20, since valve stem seal wear is the most often cause of consumption, and a lighter-viscosity oil has less frictional torque on the valve stem seals. I'd also run it year round; just like most cars that use 5W20, ambient temps don't make a huge difference in oil temps unless it's really cold. That's why cars have cooling systems.
 
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