5/40 HDEO is universal...
- Thread starter dblshock
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I'd argue 0w30/0w40 for all regulas gas engines minus BMW E60 or anything Italian that sips 10w60. We could go 0w50 Enos?
Ill probably replace the seal before uping the viscosity.Might go Liquimoly Motor Oil Saver route or swap one qt for 0w40 PUP. Already got 75000 on mine and hasn't dripped a drop.Hope it stays that way too
Well, I don't know that "finally" is the appropriate choice of word since this grade's been around for a number of years.
I suppose that I shouldn't spoil the party by noting that SOPUS specifically recommends that their 5W-40 HDEO offering not be used in vehicles with catalytic converters, which kind of reduces the universality of this grade.
Of course, what do they know?
They're only the formulator and blender.
I suppose that I shouldn't spoil the party by noting that SOPUS specifically recommends that their 5W-40 HDEO offering not be used in vehicles with catalytic converters, which kind of reduces the universality of this grade.
Of course, what do they know?
They're only the formulator and blender.
Originally Posted By: dblshock
created to service multi fleet we finally have a universal motor oil for all motors in all climates,
Yes, and some highly regarded people here have used an E7, E9 5w-40 in place of an A3/B4 lubricant. I use it in an SM/GF-4 5w-30 application. I would say it can cover a lot of bases. Some might argue an E6, E7, E9 HDEO might be able to cover even more bases.
created to service multi fleet we finally have a universal motor oil for all motors in all climates,
Yes, and some highly regarded people here have used an E7, E9 5w-40 in place of an A3/B4 lubricant. I use it in an SM/GF-4 5w-30 application. I would say it can cover a lot of bases. Some might argue an E6, E7, E9 HDEO might be able to cover even more bases.
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Of course, what do they know?
They're only the formulator and blender.
I gave Gina a very hard time here about them having an SM rating on the product, more than once. If you don't want it used in gasoline engines, simply don't have the SM or SN on the bottle. I notice their Rotella rep on the board here isn't quite as frightened of Rotella winding up in a gasser.
Do note that Exxon-Mobil states plainly on the data sheet that Delvac 1 ESP 5w-40 is recommended for high performance gasoline applications. There are vehicles that do call for 5w-40 in SM out there. The Rotella option is perfectly acceptable, as long as Rotella has that SM or newer rating.
Of course, what do they know?
They're only the formulator and blender.
I gave Gina a very hard time here about them having an SM rating on the product, more than once. If you don't want it used in gasoline engines, simply don't have the SM or SN on the bottle. I notice their Rotella rep on the board here isn't quite as frightened of Rotella winding up in a gasser.
Do note that Exxon-Mobil states plainly on the data sheet that Delvac 1 ESP 5w-40 is recommended for high performance gasoline applications. There are vehicles that do call for 5w-40 in SM out there. The Rotella option is perfectly acceptable, as long as Rotella has that SM or newer rating.
I dont see the point of your post beyond you trying to get a reaction. I've used thick and thin oils and never an issue, use what you want. Your opinion doesnt make it a fact.
Sounds like the weight I would use if I had to pick just one weight to cover every car and light truck application on the planet. It's thick enough for diesels and high torque at low rpm turbo engines or long trips down the freeway
A big factor is being educated and driving according to the climate and oil that's in h crank case. For example, my TL is obviously spec'd for a 5w20 and I believe even back spec'd for 0w20. However, it's had either 5w30 or 5w40 in it with the occasional 0w40 and even 0w20 when I was living in a very cold area for a short time. Knowing I've got a 5w40 in it and one with a high HTHSv compared to its kinematic viscosity, I drive it accordingly during warm up. I shift manually and I have 2.5 miles of residential neighborhood to go through before hitting any highways. It rarely sees higher than 1,750rpm until the water is at full temp and the oil is near 140F. I have screwed up and accidentally pulled out in front of someone and had to punch it in which case it was business as usual. VTEC even engaged with just a mile of drive time on this oil. I don't like how hot oil pressure on the J32 (I bought the car brand new so it isn't wear related) can get down to 3-4psi on a hot summer day in stop and go traffic with a 5w20. Obviously a manufacturer can't tell us to drive it easy and keep rpms below 2 grand when cold and along with the fleet mpg penalties I can see why they seem to error on the thinner side. I just thought I would point out that if someone held a gun to your head and said pick one viscosity for all of mankind for every car out there, a slightly thicker than average grade like 5w40 could be made to work in everything while a 0w20 would not work too well in a 900ftlb diesel hauling a 5th wheel up a grade or many of the newer high power density, high torque at an extremely low rpm gas engines out today. The 5w40 could be made to work in extremely cold climates in any engine as well as hot summer track days.
I know this is somewhat subjective but I've thought of 5w40 or even 0w40 in the Redline variety with a 4.0 HTHSv in the past as THE universal oil that could work in any car. I think what is fact is there are some engines that can't use the thinner oils without damage at full sustained power but there is no engine that won't accept 5w40. It may not be ideal but it will work without damage.
A big factor is being educated and driving according to the climate and oil that's in h crank case. For example, my TL is obviously spec'd for a 5w20 and I believe even back spec'd for 0w20. However, it's had either 5w30 or 5w40 in it with the occasional 0w40 and even 0w20 when I was living in a very cold area for a short time. Knowing I've got a 5w40 in it and one with a high HTHSv compared to its kinematic viscosity, I drive it accordingly during warm up. I shift manually and I have 2.5 miles of residential neighborhood to go through before hitting any highways. It rarely sees higher than 1,750rpm until the water is at full temp and the oil is near 140F. I have screwed up and accidentally pulled out in front of someone and had to punch it in which case it was business as usual. VTEC even engaged with just a mile of drive time on this oil. I don't like how hot oil pressure on the J32 (I bought the car brand new so it isn't wear related) can get down to 3-4psi on a hot summer day in stop and go traffic with a 5w20. Obviously a manufacturer can't tell us to drive it easy and keep rpms below 2 grand when cold and along with the fleet mpg penalties I can see why they seem to error on the thinner side. I just thought I would point out that if someone held a gun to your head and said pick one viscosity for all of mankind for every car out there, a slightly thicker than average grade like 5w40 could be made to work in everything while a 0w20 would not work too well in a 900ftlb diesel hauling a 5th wheel up a grade or many of the newer high power density, high torque at an extremely low rpm gas engines out today. The 5w40 could be made to work in extremely cold climates in any engine as well as hot summer track days.
I know this is somewhat subjective but I've thought of 5w40 or even 0w40 in the Redline variety with a 4.0 HTHSv in the past as THE universal oil that could work in any car. I think what is fact is there are some engines that can't use the thinner oils without damage at full sustained power but there is no engine that won't accept 5w40. It may not be ideal but it will work without damage.
I thought I would mention that the Acura has been on a high ZDDP oil since it's first oil change. Just got it smogged a couple months ago on the original cats and 02 sensors and emissions are up. Previously it blew 0 hydrocarbons. This time it blew 1 hydrocarbon lol. I think this proves high ZDDP absolutely does not harm emissions equipment as long as it doesn't burn oil. This is with 145 or 147,000 miles.
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I'm convinced higher ZDDP is a complete non-issue unless you have an oil burner. Of course a lot of the newer cars that get force fed 20 grade somethings use oil, or develop consumption so I can see why there is concern.
Originally Posted By: dblshock
see alot of 0/20 fan boys looking to stop the 0/20 bleeding with +5/30
I see a lot of trolling dolts posting the same myths over and over...
If using 0W-20 in your Honda makes you pee your pants, fine! But don't keep posting the same baseless [censored] opinion masked as fact...
see alot of 0/20 fan boys looking to stop the 0/20 bleeding with +5/30
I see a lot of trolling dolts posting the same myths over and over...
If using 0W-20 in your Honda makes you pee your pants, fine! But don't keep posting the same baseless [censored] opinion masked as fact...
Originally Posted By: dblshock
[quote=KCJeep Of course a lot of the newer cars that get force fed 20 grade somethings use oil, or develop consumption so I can see why there is concern.
the time to act on 5/40 is while the motor is young, healthy.
Yeah, and the high zinc additive in HDEO destroys the catalytic converter in newer vehicles. Go ahead with your own though...
[quote=KCJeep Of course a lot of the newer cars that get force fed 20 grade somethings use oil, or develop consumption so I can see why there is concern.
the time to act on 5/40 is while the motor is young, healthy.
Yeah, and the high zinc additive in HDEO destroys the catalytic converter in newer vehicles. Go ahead with your own though...
If the zinc is damaging your cat you have bigger problems than your cat.
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
I'm convinced higher ZDDP is a complete non-issue unless you have an oil burner. Of course a lot of the newer cars that get force fed 20 grade somethings use oil, or develop consumption so I can see why there is concern.
Good for you! Hopefully you'll cover everyone's emissions warranty because the manufacturers won't!
I'm convinced higher ZDDP is a complete non-issue unless you have an oil burner. Of course a lot of the newer cars that get force fed 20 grade somethings use oil, or develop consumption so I can see why there is concern.
Good for you! Hopefully you'll cover everyone's emissions warranty because the manufacturers won't!
Originally Posted By: Olas
If the zinc is damaging your cat you have bigger problems than your cat.
If you have to worry about thicker oil covering up for [censored] OEM engine designs, then you have the biggest problem of all...
BTW, the manufacturer that calls for the thickest oils in NA (5W-40) has the highest engine failure rate as of 2013;.
If the zinc is damaging your cat you have bigger problems than your cat.
If you have to worry about thicker oil covering up for [censored] OEM engine designs, then you have the biggest problem of all...
BTW, the manufacturer that calls for the thickest oils in NA (5W-40) has the highest engine failure rate as of 2013;.
The phosphorus can evaporate from the oil down the exhaust. You don't need to have high oil consumption for this to be a problem.
This is why the seq IIIGB was developed
This is why the seq IIIGB was developed
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