Pistons get very hot. I have said many times on this site that if you expect to get hundreds of thousands of miles on an engine without oil consumption, you have to keep the pistons, ring grooves, and ring lands clean. If you don't, then you get vertical scoring like you see in these cylinders because the oil control ring is packed with carbon. What ever oil was run couldn't handle the heat. Oxidative stability of the engine oil matters. If you trade cars often or lease, then it doesn't matter, but if you keep your vehicles for a long time and expect low oil consumption, then you gotta use an exceptional oil.
Guessing less idle time and/or shorter oci.So , what’s the answer here for better piston cleanliness ? M1 5W30 EP ? Adding Rislone Oil conditioner (or something similar ?)
Reminds me of these XOM slides:I still think no different oil would have helped in this case. It is a factory problem. Pistons get hot, yes, but a stagnant oil film will just cook on a piston, even with the best oil available. The hot oil must be migrated to the sump and replaced. Clearly that wasn't happening, for a long time. Very doubtful if it is just piston/ring design either.
I agree 100% that’s why using a Quality Oil like Triax Lubricants or Any of the M1 variants is a Must .Pistons get very hot. I have said many times on this site that if you expect to get hundreds of thousands of miles on an engine without oil consumption, you have to keep the pistons, ring grooves, and ring lands clean. If you don't, then you get vertical scoring like you see in these cylinders because the oil control ring is packed with carbon. What ever oil was run couldn't handle the heat. Oxidative stability of the engine oil matters. If you trade cars often or lease, then it doesn't matter, but if you keep your vehicles for a long time and expect low oil consumption, then you gotta use an exceptional oil.
I agree 100% that’s why using a Quality Oil like Triax Lubricants or Any of the M1 variants is a Must .
Perfect explanation , I do the GDI valve cleanings,Gumout in crankcase right before oil changes and throw TT fuel ️ with Redline Si-1. Oils used have only been Redline, Mobil 1 and @High Performance Lubricants ec30 as a top off right before oil changes. Currently at a dash over 320,000 as of today.Pistons get very hot. I have said many times on this site that if you expect to get hundreds of thousands of miles on an engine without oil consumption, you have to keep the pistons, ring grooves, and ring lands clean. If you don't, then you get vertical scoring like you see in these cylinders because the oil control ring is packed with carbon. What ever oil was run couldn't handle the heat. Oxidative stability of the engine oil matters. If you trade cars often or lease, then it doesn't matter, but if you keep your vehicles for a long time and expect low oil consumption, then you gotta use an exceptional oil.
I agree 100% that’s why using a Quality Oil like Triax Lubricants or Any of the M1 variants is a Must .
I see mobil 0w40 new life listed. Would all Mobil one oils clean as good? I know 0w40, extended performance are known too clean sludge.but the other Mobil oils?Reminds me of these XOM slides:
View attachment 207581
(yes, this one uses altered contrast to make the differences more stark):
View attachment 207582
And if we look at Sequence VG, even "pass" doesn't look too hot:
View attachment 207587
It's successor, VH, "pass" doesn't look that great either:
View attachment 207588
So, do I think a "better" oil might have kept things cleaner and prevented the oil consumption? yeah, possibly. I don't think we can dismiss that as a possibility.