4l80E Part order list

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Ordering parts for my first 4l80 rebuild, and kits/numbers/brands are all over the place in listings, or parts just aren't listed good. I've skimmed/scanned/read several of the posts on here and various other sites to get an idea. So hopefully, thanks too all previously posting questions and others giving guidance already. Just want to see if I'm missing anything or any strong recommendations of something I'm forgetting, or should replace.

Vehicle 2001 Silverado 2500HD4x4 200k+ miles. Tow/Farm vehicle. Not a drag/race deal, will need good reverse. Bought truck fairly cheap figuring transmission was messed up already. Could part it out and make money, but would rather use it. Had bad break lines so couldn't test drive. After fixing lines on test drive when cold it would barely shift into 3rd and hold it, but would go into OD if I could make it to 3rd with light throttle pressure and would hold OD. Reverse, 1st and 2nd seemed fine. As it warmed up, just reverse 1st and 2nd, and could not get 3rd and transmission temp would peg if I kept driving in 2nd(has factory gauge). No codes and the fluid was burnt. Original transmission never rebuilt. Will most likely tow 20ft car trailer to race tracks more than anything else.

For ordering parts I had best luck with transpartonline listings, so I'm just ordering majority from them.

#34006EBX: Master Kit with Steels, 4L80E (with Bonded Rubber Pistons & Turbulator Steels) (97-Up) (BORG WARNER FRICTIONS TransTec Overhaul Kit)) (No Pan Gasket) INCLUDED: 34002EAX TransTec Overhaul Kit, B34119E Borg Warner Friction Module, 34139EA Steel Module, K33900F-4 Bonded Rubber Piston kit
Includes: All Friction & Steel plates, Sealing Rings, Clad Seals, Gasket & Seal kit

#B34024E: BAND REAR TH400 / 425 / 4L80E (BORG WARNER BRAND) LATE DESIGN HIGH ENERGY LINING BORG WARNER

#B34022E: BAND, FRONT 1.25" WIDE 4L80E 1996-UP (BORG WARNER) FRONT SERVO PISTON HAS .273" DIAMETER SHAFT

#34476: CARRIER OUTPUT SILENCER RING TH400 (64-UP) 4L80E (91-98)

#34446: rostra HARNESS INTERNAL: 4L80E (94-03)

Durabond Bushing kit TK-4A from somewhere else, they didn't have it listed.

I had already ordered a sonnax 'The Sure Cure Kit' hoping it was just a valve body issue before facing facts that the trans needed a full rebuild. This kit includes the following:

1-2 & 2-3 Shift Valve Spring Kit 34994-02K

Boost Valve Kit 34200-01K

Actuator Feed Limit Valve Kit 34200-16K

Case Bushing 34006-SP

Forward Clutch Hub Washer (Rear) 34301-078

Front/Rear Unit Endplay Shim 34500-Z

O-Ringed End Plug Kit 34994-14K

O-Ringed End Plug Kit 34994-13

Stator Support Bushing 34016-W

Checkball 10000-08

TCC Regulator Valve Kit 34994-01K

I have 2 pdf manuals CLiff Mccormick and ATSG

I plan on dual feeding, and I believe I can rollerize output with the sonnax bushing listed above.


Now for some questions:

1. I have seen where Clinebanger has said buy sonnax kit line pressure kit # 4L80E-LB1. Is it that much different than the kit listed above #34200-01K? For $20 I can order it separate, if there is a worthwhile difference. I believe Clinebanger also suggested another o-ring plug kit, with a different number.

2. Do I need to still drill the 'lube to line bypass' I read somewhere sonnax had a fix/part wasn't sure if is covered in the parts above

3. If I'm not turning the high rpms, is it still recommended to drill a .030" hole at the edge of the direct drum

4. Is it worth ordering 4LCC/UDCPK and another friction. Or their teflon coated pump set from ck performance for a first time build, or is their some other worthwhile parts that should be ordered from them.



Trying to learn these things as I work on it. I have several other 4l80's in the fleet of chevy's between me and father, so might as well figure out a program for them. Also have some project vehicles in future that these trans will be put into.

I've worked on just about everything else on car, might as well try fixing one of these.

Thanks for any info or suggestions.
 
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Do you have the Tool Kit for the Sonnax Actuator Feed Limit Valve?

*Drill a Lube to Line Bypass in the Pump Cover (.042" to .055") & Drill out the Bushing/Seal drain back to 1/4" to 9/32". SC kit does not include a "Bypass" PR Valve though one is available from Sonnax.

*You can rollerize the output by installing the 34006-SP bushing backwards....Use Retaining compound or red Loctite to adhere the bushing to the case! Of coarse you'll need a TH350 Pump Bearing & Shim kit.

*Dual Feeding the Directs slows down reverse engagement, Count out loud "1-2-3".....That's how long it will take! You must block the "Short" Reverse Apply circuit to the Direct Clutch & then rely on the much longer (More Volume) 3rd Apply circuit. Reverse will still be as stout as it ever was Once it engages.

*Delete the 3rd & 4th Accumulator Housing, They're about useless on a 4L80E.....Even more so when dual feeding the directs. And it's the cause of many issues with leaks & cross leaks.

*The Forward Drum is likely toast.....Be prepared for that.

*The Boost Valve & Sleeve in the SC kit is perfect for stock power. Also....The SC kit comes with all the O-ringed end plugs needed.

*No hole in the Direct Drum for stock RPM levels.

*I can count on one hand how many Front Bands I've replaced, 99.5% of the time they're in perfect shape

*Stock Pump gears are fine.


 

jdr7

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Thank you Clinebarger for info, sorry for misspelling name in earlier post, must of had 'bang'in gears on brain.

Is it worth getting the ck kit: 4L80ECC/MSRK . Or just get the block off plate and thrust bearing/shim kit. I don't mind spending the money if its worth it. I'm saving money doing it myself anyway. I'll already be $60 with plate and shim kit, 140 will get everything else.

I do not have the sonnax tool kit. It looked like an overpriced reamer and alignment tool. I was going to ask a trans shop in area if they would ream it. If not I'll measure the sleeve/bushing and order a proper sized reamer, I think last one I bought around that size was no more than $20. And if that looks over whelming for me, I'll order the transgo kit you recommend, which will prolly work out as I'll have 4 or 5 of these transmission I'll need to rebuild in next couple years lol.

I'll inspect the forward drum real close.

Is it standard procedure to replace torque converters on every rebuild?

again thanks
 

jdr7

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Forward drum pics. I believe this is the high wear area you say to inspect...first couple pics are before taking some scotch bright to. Then I cleaned it up some and tried using a feeler gauge to tell how bad the ridge was. I can feel it with finger, but can't get my finger nail to catch it, can make a screwdriver catch a little. And is it normal to for the heat staining where the I believe the overdrive planet rides on it?
 

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jdr7

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after some scotch bright
 

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jdr7

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Where I believe the OD planetary rides, is the heat evidence here normal?
 

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jdr7

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For torque converters, are the Transtar Recon torque converters fine. It specs out #GM88H 2100-2200 stall. They have a lower stall one listed for diesal/big block, in 1600-1800 range. A billet clutch option is also available for those models. Or hughes converter a better option. I think yanks lowest stall is around 3k, same for circle d. I think that might cause some unwanted heat while towing with the higher stall? I'd have to call precision in New hampshire to to get their prices. Open to other options, that's what my google searching seems to find.
 
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I don't see a lot of wear, But some nonetheless, I'd replace it with a reconditioned/sleeved drum.....It's only $100. Guess the Forward Frictions weren't looking too good?

The staining is left over from heat treating the OD Carrier Ring Gear portion of the Forward Drum.

Stock rebuilt converters work well on these, Double check the Crank Adaptor for wear.....It's much softer than a Nodular Iron Crank which is what a Converter normally pilots into. Simply stick your index finger into the Adaptor & feel for a groove.
 

jdr7

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I realized after taking pic I grabbed wrong mic...I'll double check with better one, since they are supposed to be .080
 

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jdr7

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Hub has some knotching/grooving starting...
 

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jdr7

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pump housing has some wear...there is a ridge on inside that I can catch a finger nail on
 

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The commonality of any transmission shop I’ve seen are the large tables with sheet metal tops and drip rails. It’s a simple thing but goes a long way in keeping organized. If I tried this I’d have to have everything laid out in a line and in order. Keep us posted with this adventure. :)
 

jdr7

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The commonality of any transmission shop I’ve seen are the large tables with sheet metal tops and drip rails. It’s a simple thing but goes a long way in keeping organized. If I tried this I’d have to have everything laid out in a line and in order. Keep us posted with this adventure.

As I took it apart I kinda reassembled it outside of the housing, to keep it in order. No nice bench with drip rail to direct fluid, but I bought a couple metal pans that can be put under cars in garage to lay on my bench to control fluid/mess. When I get parts coming in, I'll start cleaning up and organizing the sections onto a neighboring table.
 
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The Forwards don't look so bad.....That means the Turbine Shaft Sealing rings were still doing there job, So I'm less likely to condemn the Forward Drum, But new Sealing Rings & a Bushing in the Drum would be a must!!

That Forward Hub is usable as the Forwards are engaged in every forward gear....So a Friction getting caught in one of those divots while overrunning in Reverse won't cause any issues unless you're backing trailers at 30 MPH?

You'll need a Pump Cover & Gears......Can't see the Pump Body being any good either.....Look closely at the Crescent where the Gears ride.
 

jdr7

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Yessir on sealing rings and bushing.

I'd have to have a really bad nite at track to be backing out at 30mph lol. So not likely to happen

Looks like I'll be buying a complete new pump...

While shopping around for pump, I see a couple 4l80 specialist places selling a 'heat treated pump plate' that goes between the pump halves to reduce wear. I'm guessing the pump would need to be machined to use one of those?

What would cause the pump to wear like that, dirty/old fluid full of friction material and lubricity gone from over heating?
 

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A stock pump will run A LONG TIME with good maintenance, Those plate are more for Constant Pressure units used behind engines making big power.

I'm going to guess it was a lubricity issue coupled with a partially clogged filter as I don't see a lot of metal, What are the odds it still had the factory fill Dexron III?.....Pretty high being a work truck.
 

jdr7

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A stock pump will run A LONG TIME with good maintenance, Those plate are more for Constant Pressure units used behind engines making big power.

I'm going to guess it was a lubricity issue coupled with a partially clogged filter as I don't see a lot of metal, What are the odds it still had the factory fill Dexron III?.....Pretty high being a work truck.
Being told about the previous owner, I would not be surprised it wasn't the original fluid, apparently he wasn't much on maintenance other than engine oil...fluid was dark brown almost color of engine oil, and it had an oem style pan gasket. If I still worked in a shop, it would of been the conversation, if we change fluid it will likely drive worse after changing fluid it had so much friction material in fluid. I didn't look at bolt heads to see if any were rounded. I know none were stripped. Glad I got this truck for the price of motor lol.

Anything wrong with buying the 2 pump halves(new) separate and gears...I think that sonnax kit replaces most of the valves anyway? Instead of buying a complete reman/new pump. I know to makes sure its a 97-03 pump for rear feed.
 
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As long as the pump halves are for a center lube unit....You'll be fine.

Using a '04-'10 pump works just fine on a '97-'03 Case. Using a '97-'03 pump in a '04-'10 case requires plugging a hole in the pump cover.
 
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Being told about the previous owner, I would not be surprised it wasn't the original fluid, apparently he wasn't much on maintenance other than engine oil...fluid was dark brown almost color of engine oil, and it had an oem style pan gasket. If I still worked in a shop, it would of been the conversation, if we change fluid it will likely drive worse after changing fluid it had so much friction material in fluid. I didn't look at bolt heads to see if any were rounded. I know none were stripped. Glad I got this truck for the price of motor lol.

Anything wrong with buying the 2 pump halves(new) separate and gears...I think that sonnax kit replaces most of the valves anyway? Instead of buying a complete reman/new pump. I know to makes sure its a 97-03 pump for rear feed.
It is important to check the pump clearances using a straight edge and a feeler gauge. My straight edge is a iGaging 12" Beveled Straight Edge Hardened Steel that I picked up on ebay for $26. Just make sure whatever you are using is truly straight, machinist grade straight edge.

Pump gears typically need replaced. Proper gear to face clearance should be .0007 to .0028 Outer gear to pocket is .0015-.008
Inner gear to crescent is .002-.0075 for a brand new pump. .009-.012 is OK
Look for scarring on the inner gear.
Measure the outer gear to top of pocket and inner gear to top of pocket using a straight edge. .0025” or less here is good.


Here's the info on the pump that Cline put together for me:

*You can run a '04 & up pump in a '97-'03 Case without issue.
*You can run a '97-'03 pump in a '04 & up Case IF you plug the Cooler Return hole. The '04 & up case doesn't have the boss to block the cooler return (Which was left over from '90-'96 models)

The boss in the case that was eliminated in 2004.....

1611611025890.jpg


1611610777040.jpg




The hole that will need to be plugged if using a '97-'03 Stator/Pump Body in a 2004 & up Case
1611610909209.jpg
 
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