4.6 oil filter

[Lubener]

Originally Posted by 69Torino
The image shows the filter in an angled orientation, but a Ford Modular engine has the filter either mounted in a horizontal position (cars) or a somewhat vertical position (trucks). In the cars, I've cut open filters and found carbon laying in the can. I don't want that carbon picked up in the bypass stream to be washed into the rod and main bearings. That's a fact.

Thanks, very interesting. I can see where more contaiminants can get back into the engine with the dome located bypass. Motorcraft is the only base-bypass I have seen for this application. The combo's in low end WIX products would classify as base mounted bypass I guess.

 

[69Torino]

They do technically qualify as a base end bypass but their reliability is in question in my mind. I've cut them apart to see if I could figure out how they work. K&N uses base end bypass on the 3/4-16 thread filter for old Ford V8's (they didn't in the past). I use Napa Gold 1773 on the Torino, it's a bigger (longer) version of the 51515 or FL1-A, and is equipped with a silicone valve, base end bypass and the good Napa Gold media. I hear Wix/Napa Gold started using base end again on the 51372 (Ford Modular Filter) for a long time they were dome end bypass. We still have a bunch of 51372 filters on the shelf at work that are dome end bypass, we haven't had to replenish stock recently. When the new ones show up I'll check them.

 

[Colt45ws]

Dome end bypass is the dominant style of filter in just about everything on the road. Dome end isnt going to waste your main bearings what a load of crap. The bypass barely ever opens anyway, maybe a second on cold start. Yet you'll use a purolator with a history of devloping a permanent bypass mode. Okies

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted by 69Torino

Does anyone see the technical flaw in this diagram. The concept is correct, but the illustration is wrong.

 

[Job]

That picture shows the flow gap by the element end cap. It doesn't seem like it would work like that. Need to see a real valve. The way it shows, the element wouldn't be supported and the leaf spring is not really meant to be moving up and down, it's more of a leaf retainer.
Makes no difference, the reason is sound. Dirt may collect in the bottom, so put the bypass at the other end from the dirt. It isn't rocket science. And if base faces down, dome end bypass is away from any dirt.
There is a post with a Motorcraft filter saying conforms to USCAR 36. They have changed the filters. Not fair or logical to keep calling them out for what happened in the past. I would use only MC filters if I had a Ford. Pretty impressed by Ford cars and trucks these days.

 

[69Torino]

Originally Posted by Farnsworth
That picture shows the flow gap by the element end cap. It doesn't seem like it would work like that. Need to see a real valve. The way it shows, the element wouldn't be supported and the leaf spring is not really meant to be moving up and down, it's more of a leaf retainer.
Makes no difference, the reason is sound. Dirt may collect in the bottom, so put the bypass at the other end from the dirt. It isn't rocket science. And if base faces down, dome end bypass is away from any dirt.
There is a post with a Motorcraft filter saying conforms to USCAR 36. They have changed the filters. Not fair or logical to keep calling them out for what happened in the past. I would use only MC filters if I had a Ford. Pretty impressed by Ford cars and trucks these days.

Agreed.

 

[BLND1]

I've used Fram in my 2002 4.6 2v (Mustang GT) since I bought it in 2005.

It's been XG2's for as long as I can remember. (99k total on the car).

I've had the engine apart for... non-maintenance reasons

and everything looks fine and the car gets flogged around a track quite often.

 

[kstanf150]

ðŸ‘ðŸ‘ðŸ‘

 

[littleant]

I have been using a MotorCraft Oil Filter FL-1A base end bypass on my 2002 jeep for quite a few years now. This winter I switched to a fram xg8a. No comparison. At -30 the fram has oil presure within 4 sec.
At these temperatures using the motorcraft the warning buzzer comes on no presure for 8-10 seconds. Maybe it's the synthetic filter flowing better or the dome end bypass is doing it's job by opening. Maybe the base end bypass is not as sensitive (both rated i believe at 12 psi).
Switched over to a XG2 on my 2010 Mountaineer. Just my experience.

 

[Linctex]

Originally Posted by Colt45ws
Dome end bypass is the dominant style of filter in just about everything on the road. Dome end isnt going to waste your main bearings what a load of crap. The bypass barely ever opens anyway, maybe a second on cold start.


True.... and even THEN, it is NOT flowing 100% of the oil flow -

it flows just barely enough once pressure differential is reached and no more than that.

 

[littleant]

Is the main reason to use the threaded end bypass valve on a Ford Modular Engines to prevent any wash back of residue in the dome end. I have a 2010 Mountaineer with the 4.0 72,500 miles very well cared for. Used the FL820S changed every 3,000 miles with oil. Cutting open the filter and never saw any residue in the dome. Engine real clean inside. So I switch to a fram xg2 the last couple oil changes and found no residue in the dome end. So if the engine has been serviced well does it really matter if it's done end or threaded end bypass valve. Are there any other reason to use the motorcraft?? The reason I switch to Fran it's a Synthetic filter. This engine runs 4 timing chains and that's the reason for the 3,000 miles service intervals and I want to use the best available oil and filter.