4.6 oil filter

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buddy of mine just bought a mint 2008 F150 STX with the ol reliable 4.6 V8, with only 41k miles. It must have been garaged its whole life, not a scratch on it, flawless interior, it has an ARE bedcover and the inside of the bed doesnt have a single scratch. He plans on keeping this truck a long time. I advised against the Motorcraft FL820S filter due it being Purolator made, which would be the best filter in regards to startup noise, thread end bypass, etc? I was thinking either Napa Gold 1372 or Fram XG2, but I think theyre dome end bypass. We will run whichever filter you guys think is best with PYB 5W30 at 5k intervals.
 
NAPA Gold 1372 & 5W30 Quaker State Ultimate Durability or Chevron Havoline Pro DS 5W30. 5,000 mile OCI
 
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i THINK the Royal Purple filter has the base-end bypass? Worth looking to see. Otherwise, I'd just run the FRAM Ultra.
 
Originally Posted by rollinpete
I'd run the Fram ultra with PP 5w20. 41 K miles keep it new.


Just noticed your from La. I would probably also use a 5w30.
 
If Fram would put the bypass valve on the correct end and double the thickness of the can on an XG2, I'd use it. Filters made for Ford Modular Engines that do not have the bypass valve on the threaded end do not meet OEM specifications. If Ford wants it on the threaded end, then I'm buying filters with it on the threaded end. Not blindly either, I know their reason.

That said, my suggestion is the Ford Racing FL820S. Sounds like a nice truck, give it a nice filter.
 
Originally Posted by 69Torino
If Fram would put the bypass valve on the correct end and double the thickness of the can on an XG2, I'd use it. Filters made for Ford Modular Engines that do not have the bypass valve on the threaded end do not meet OEM specifications. If Ford wants it on the threaded end, then I'm buying filters with it on the threaded end. Not blindly either, I know their reason.

That said, my suggestion is the Ford Racing FL820S. Sounds like a nice truck, give it a nice filter.



First time I've heard about the bypass valve orientation. Always learning neat things here.
 
I'd stay with the motor craft. The whole Purolator disaster thing is really just way overblown and it's not even an issue that exist anymore.
Other options for thread end by pass (good choice by the way) are Royal purple or k&n.usualy wix or Napa gold have threaded end bpvs but not the wix XP/Napa platinum.
 
Originally Posted by 69Torino
If Fram would put the bypass valve on the correct end and double the thickness of the can on an XG2, I'd use it. Filters made for Ford Modular Engines that do not have the bypass valve on the threaded end do not meet OEM specifications. If Ford wants it on the threaded end, then I'm buying filters with it on the threaded end. Not blindly either, I know their reason.


Amen to all that
 
Originally Posted by 69GTX
Originally Posted by 69Torino
If Fram would put the bypass valve on the correct end and double the thickness of the can on an XG2, I'd use it. Filters made for Ford Modular Engines that do not have the bypass valve on the threaded end do not meet OEM specifications. If Ford wants it on the threaded end, then I'm buying filters with it on the threaded end. Not blindly either, I know their reason.

That said, my suggestion is the Ford Racing FL820S. Sounds like a nice truck, give it a nice filter.



First time I've heard about the bypass valve orientation. Always learning neat things here.

Everyone has an opinion. He said he knows the reason but I do not see the facts.
 
Motorcraft FL820S for the 4.6L $3.37 at walmart, regardless what ANY one , WHOEVER say perfect for 5k or 6 month oil change . -MetalSlug-
 
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There was a post a few weeks ago showing wix/napa gold went to a thread end bypass.
I'd go with a wix over the Motorcraft. The 820s seems to be affected the worst with the purolator tear issue.
I just ordered an Amsoil filter for my 5.4 superduty, it is dome end bypass, but a very well made filter with great filtering so im looking forward to trying it out.
 
Originally Posted by Lubener
Originally Posted by 69GTX
Originally Posted by 69Torino
If Fram would put the bypass valve on the correct end and double the thickness of the can on an XG2, I'd use it. Filters made for Ford Modular Engines that do not have the bypass valve on the threaded end do not meet OEM specifications. If Ford wants it on the threaded end, then I'm buying filters with it on the threaded end. Not blindly either, I know their reason.

That said, my suggestion is the Ford Racing FL820S. Sounds like a nice truck, give it a nice filter.



First time I've heard about the bypass valve orientation. Always learning neat things here.

Everyone has an opinion. He said he knows the reason but I do not see the facts.


DD25ABA8-381E-4530-B31A-DEB329E729FC.jpeg


8C3F515D-E2D6-4A36-8A2B-601DABED40FD.jpeg
 
The image shows the filter in an angled orientation, but a Ford Modular engine has the filter either mounted in a horizontal position (cars) or a somewhat vertical position (trucks). In the cars, I've cut open filters and found carbon laying in the can. I don't want that carbon picked up in the bypass stream to be washed into the rod and main bearings. That's a fact.
 
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