4.3 silverado OLM should I be getting worried?!

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Please copy & paste where anyone here said your engine will seize?





That would be me, but didn't say it WILL seize, I just meant that an oil change at this stage of the game would be pretty much pointless.




Why do you believe its pointless? If the IL State Police can run 15,000 mi OCI with Mobil 1 in the LT1 Chevy V-8 in their cars for 200,000+ mi with 50%+ Idle and high speed pursuit work why do you think an oil change after 13,500 mi is pointless on a 4.3L Chevy?

Do you feel because of the easier service that this is to soon?

Or do you feel there is a design flaw with the 4.3L that causes it to automatically be damaged after an extended OCI?
 
Due to my personal experience with doing yearly oil changes with Mobil 1 from the time M1 came out back in the 70's until I retired in 2001, I would say that this poster's engine is perfect. Mobil initially said that M1 was good for 25,000 mile or one year OCI's, and I believed them. True, they dropped this claim after some people did not check their oil level over 25,000 miles, and ruined their engines. My usual OCI was 18,000 to 20,000 miles in a year.

My question about this Chevy 4.3 concerns why the OLM, which I would assume is calibrated for dino oil, hasn't gone off yet. This number of miles, 13,500, does seem to be a little excessive for dino. Actually, quite a bit excessive. Even I, who happily ran M1 for 18,000 mile OCI's back in the day, would not run dino more than 5 or 6 thousand miles or 6 months.

But, anyway, this poster was using M1 for 12,500 miles, and based on my experience, he still has a perfect engine. A UOA would be very interesting.
 
Nick, if you do a search (a ways back) there was a GM engine design guy who went through all the stuff that went into the GM OLM. They did testing side by side with one unit towing and the other not ..etc...etc. It's fundamental base is due to the "per rpm" decay of ZDDP, IIRC. All the other influences (event duration, time at coolant temp, fuel enrichment time span, mileage, MAP, TPS, VSS, etc..etc.) altered that decay line.

This user's service profile is probably near ideal. He has only (typically, according to him) has one starting event over 100 miles of usage. 85+% of his operational time is in the "steady state" ..about 1/10th to 1/20th the effects of the warmup cycle compared to the typical user.

Never mind the search. I found it. A very good read before the flamefest started.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...part=1&vc=1
 
Well you can all stop crying now, I did an oil change. K&N gold filter, and some mobile 1 synthetic.

And i mid stream I got a sample for a UOA. Unfortunately the engine was cold but im sure they account for that.

I didn't reset the OLM (and you cant do it on accident trust me), so ill see when it would have told me to come on. Hopefully in about 2,000 miles and not another 13,000 LOL.

Im thinking of trying amsoil next. Or maybe a lighter oil (like 0w-20), any suggestions?
 
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Well you can all stop crying now, I did an oil change. K&N gold filter, and some mobile 1 synthetic.

And i mid stream I got a sample for a UOA. Unfortunately the engine was cold but im sure they account for that.

I didn't reset the OLM (and you cant do it on accident trust me), so ill see when it would have told me to come on. Hopefully in about 2,000 miles and not another 13,000 LOL.

Im thinking of trying amsoil next. Or maybe a lighter oil (like 0w-20), any suggestions?




How did the oil look?

I think a 0W-20 or 5W-20 might be too thin...with the exception of an Amsoil 0W-20 or a Redline 5W-20. You could research those two excellent oils and see if they are an acceptable choice.

But any name brand synthetic 5W-30 oil , purchased on sale is probably a good match for your truck and the OLM.

Please let us know when the OLM 'decides' its time for an oil change.
 
yeah im definatly going to post when the OLM said time to change

the oil looked well, "fine". It looked no different than when I change the trans ams oil every 3,000 miles. I put the pan in the middle of the sun and didn't see any metal particles. The oil filter is out side drying out then ill cut it open and post pics if people want.
 
NO NEED TO WORRY. I HAVE AN OLM ON MY COLORADO, that doesn't call for a change until over 13000 miles. You must be dirving in very easy conditions. Dont sweat it. The owners manual does say however to change once a year if the OLM doesn't call for it sooner. Beware of the so-called experts here. They have chased off quite a few knowledgeable people with their arrogance.
 
I change it at 7500. But if you went longer, dont sweat it everything is OK. The GM OLM is a proven reliable system. Newer engines are very easy on oil. And the newer motor oils have closed the gap between conventional and synthetic. Next time I think I would just change it at 10000 miles, if the OLM doesn't call for sooner. Thats a good easy number to remember. Everything is fine with your motor.
 
I would love to see the inside of that engine at 150K - using dinos for 10K OCIs... if it makes it that far without an engine compnent repair/replacement.
 
I always change my oil at 5k - regardless of what the olm says - I have a 2005 4.3 V6 in a Work Truck too. I did let the OLM it go until it did finally pop one time and it called for an oil change at 11k miles. Of course my truck is a 5 speed with nary an option; just A/C, tilt wheel, 5 speed with 3.23 rear ratio and AM/FM radio.

If you think about it the engine is very stable: engine temp stays in a relatively tight range year round, rarely revs more that 3500 rpm and with 5qts in the sump, it's lubrtication needs are nicely covered. Since I change oil at 5k I use GTX 5W30 with very good results. BTW, the engine doesn't burn a drop of oil in between OCI's.
 
Even if the engine is not pristine inside at 150K, who cares if it's running fine?

If it's showing varnish at 200K but running fine, what is the problem?

You don't have to split hairs anymore on passenger cars and light trucks with todays motor oils, They hold up. Do a search on the UOA section, there's a havoline UOA with 10000 miles. It looks fine.
 
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Even if the engine is not pristine inside at 150K, who cares if it's running fine?

If it's showing varnish at 200K but running fine, what is the problem?

You don't have to split hairs anymore on passenger cars and light trucks with todays motor oils, They hold up. Do a search on the UOA section, there's a havoline UOA with 10000 miles. It looks fine.




This is the internet.... anything can be said/read here.

That Havoline UOA is one "pictureless" instance. Irregardless, multiply that by 15. Odds are, more than just varnish will be inside that engine at 150K. Ticks and Clatter may provide you with instrumental music then too.

Stay Tuned!
 
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I change it at 7500. But if you went longer, dont sweat it everything is OK. The GM OLM is a proven reliable system. Newer engines are very easy on oil. And the newer motor oils have closed the gap between conventional and synthetic. Next time I think I would just change it at 10000 miles, if the OLM doesn't call for sooner. Thats a good easy number to remember. Everything is fine with your motor.




Between this quote and the next comment from Mannix about sums it up!
 
I wouldn't run the oil for 13k, myself... seeings how oil is cheap and engines aren't. That said, nothing will come of it, especially with that duty cycle.

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Beware of the so-called experts here. They have chased off quite a few knowledgeable people with their arrogance.




Mannix- there's lots of valuable information around here... but this IS the intranets. Don't take things so personally. These forums are some of the best automotive forums I've come across, in spite of certain social dynamics around here. I'm glad to read your input.
 
How many times does this thread have to be rehashed? If you follow your OLM will not trash your engine if you keep it in tip top mechanical condition. The OLM errors on the conservative side. I have an family member that has 140K on his 2001 Impala and the engine will outlive the rest of the car and it got oil changes whenever the OLM light went off. It amazes me that we get all this data to show that something that was developed to save us money and to save resources when used properly actually does the job it was designed to due and there is all of this misguided doubt.
 
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How many times does this thread have to be rehashed? If you follow your OLM will not trash your engine if you keep it in tip top mechanical condition. The OLM errors on the conservative side. I have an family member that has 140K on his 2001 Impala and the engine will outlive the rest of the car and it got oil changes whenever the OLM light went off. It amazes me that we get all this data to show that something that was developed to save us money and to save resources when used properly actually does the job it was designed to due and there is all of this misguided doubt.




There wil always be misguided doubt without evidence. Always more misguided doubt because so many folks dont keep that 150K vehicle in tip-top shape - as you requested David.

I've seen my share of nasty engines from folks doing 10-13K OCIs with dino. Again... no evidence from you - no evidence from me. Lastly, most-those doing such 10-13K OCIs are not first & last owner of that vehicle - but they are usually first starting a thread here on how to get rid of that tick or clatter -- how to remove sludge -- or how to use Auto-Rx properly.

I never said every 150K vehicle with 10-13K OCIs are on their death bed. I said most have issues of some-sort. Lastly, those that keep their vehicles in tip-top shape change their oils more regularly than 10-13K.... otherwise "tip-top" is a lie.
 
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