3 Qustions.

[ARMY_Guy]

Merry Christmas BITOG friends. I'm heading 31.2 miles to Washingtons Crossing Pennsylvania to see the annual re-enactment of Gen. Washington cross the Delaware River into NJ, on his way to beat the British for our independance.

So on this both holy and historic day, I came up with some oil related questions and a comment, ofcourse.

1st of all, I'm going to put a qt. of my beloved MMO into the crankcase, and make the drive up, to loosen all the crud and make it super clean before I drain. But instead of putting in the YB I bought, I decided to pinch some pennies for a change, and buy the $16+ 5.5 qt btl. of Valvoline conventional, that Advanced Autoparts was selling with a free STP filter.

I'll put in 1/2 quart of MMO to fill it to 6qt.

Please tell me what you think.

Questions:

1) I saw a Castrol sae-30 at Walmart for $3+ a qt; would this work well in my application?

Remember, I have an 'o2 Jeep Wrangler (x) with 9oK on the 4L, I6, in a cold New Jersey winter + 7o miles of mixed driving a day.

2) Is the M1 (AFE) greencap o-3o ok for my vehicle?

3) Amsoil's sso-3o is $11.1o a btl., Royal Purple is around $6.5o a btl., should I change the fill to RP, after this Valvoline fill?

I do remember a chorus of BITOG-ers saying anything will work, but as with most people on this board, I want the best available, for a reasonable price.

Thankyou everyone.
Merry Christmas, and Happy Holidays to all.

-A

 

[demarpaint]

Merry Christmas to you! A lot of guys here are going to frown upon adding MMO to the crankcase. I'm not one of them, I would plan on leaving it in for at least 500 miles-1000 miles so it can actually do something for you. MMO suggests using it for the full OCI, but I haven't done that in many years.

As far as your oil choices I'm no fan of Valvoline products or Mobil products so I would probably use Pennzoil for now and then either PP or Amsoil when you change the Valvoline out. Enjoy the day!

Frank D

 

[simple_gifts]

Quote:

to loosen all the crud


Where does it go, into the hydraulic lifter orifices.....

 

[mechtech2]

MMO will thin it down considerably.
I like a little MMO in the fuel nowadays, but not in the engine oil.

 

[Steve S]

1]too thick this time of year [straight 30]

2] the oil is fine ,seems other people with the same engine seem to get better results with a Xw-40 oil

3]the only wat to get your moneys worth out of the syn oil is to at least double the oil change intervals [at least] At $11.00 per qt I would expect a whole lot of special out of the oil.

 

[Quest]

Why mix good, chemically/viscosity-balanced motor oil with MMO to "thin" out? Can you just resort to using multi-visc motor oil such as 10W30/5W30 to get the job done?

*yes, I frowned upon users who tries to thin out motor oil with MMO*

Q.

 

[Bryanccfshr]

alot of time research and money goes into formulating a balnced crankcase oil. I am of the opinion that if you are using the specified oil there is no need to add anything to it. MMO will basicaly dilute your additives in the oil and it will not function as well. If you seriously think you have a sludge issue you may want to consider auto rx but I don't think it is needed in most cases where recomended intervals and oils are used.
Just run a properly rated oil and don't worry about playing with the formuala

 

[ARMY_Guy]

Hmm,
1) Dino's too thick for a winter start up.
2) Don't water it down with MMO.
3) Stick to MotorOil in the sump.
4) Stick to a Xw40 if possible.

Thats what I walked away with.
Gentlemen, I thank you all, again

-A

 

[NHHEMI]

Originally Posted By: ARMY_Guy
Merry Christmas BITOG friends. I'm heading 31.2 miles to Washingtons Crossing Pennsylvania to see the annual re-enactment of Gen. Washington cross the Delaware River into NJ, on his way to beat the British for our independance.

So on this both holy and historic day, I came up with some oil related questions and a comment, ofcourse.

1st of all, I'm going to put a qt. of my beloved MMO into the crankcase, and make the drive up, to loosen all the crud and make it super clean before I drain. But instead of putting in the YB I bought, I decided to pinch some pennies for a change, and buy the $16+ 5.5 qt btl. of Valvoline conventional, that Advanced Autoparts was selling with a free STP filter.

I'll put in 1/2 quart of MMO to fill it to 6qt.

Please tell me what you think.

Questions:

1) I saw a Castrol sae-30 at Walmart for $3+ a qt; would this work well in my application?

Remember, I have an 'o2 Jeep Wrangler (x) with 9oK on the 4L, I6, in a cold New Jersey winter + 7o miles of mixed driving a day.

2) Is the M1 (AFE) greencap o-3o ok for my vehicle?

3) Amsoil's sso-3o is $11.1o a btl., Royal Purple is around $6.5o a btl., should I change the fill to RP, after this Valvoline fill?

I do remember a chorus of BITOG-ers saying anything will work, but as with most people on this board, I want the best available, for a reasonable price.

Thankyou everyone.
Merry Christmas, and Happy Holidays to all.

-A


The MMO will not hurt anything although I am not so sure it will clean the engine the way you want. Used to be a very common thing to do years ago to help free up sticking rings and lifters. However, if the engine has been cared for properly with regular OC's using quality oils then there really is no need for it unless you have something sticking. If you want to clean the engine use a flush or AutoRX.

1 - I would not run a straight 30 weight oil in your vehicle. I am assuming your vehicle was spec'd for either 5w30 or 10w30 so go with that.

2 - 0w30 will be fine if your engine is spec'd for some type of 30 weight oil. I would only run that in the cold winter months though and then go to a 5w30 or 10w30 for warmer months. You can run it year round if you wish though as long as your engine is spec'd for a 30 weight oil. I would not run 40 weight unless the mfg calls for it.

3 - RP is a great oil. One of the best out there. I would not hesitate to run it if I were you.

 

[FrankN4]

Why not just make it a 10W-40 higm mileage with an HDEO base and get it all wrapped into one?

 

[NHHEMI]

Originally Posted By: FrankN4
Why not just make it a 10W-40 higm mileage with an HDEO base and get it all wrapped into one?


Good point. A High Mileage engine oil like Valvoline MaxLife would be a very good choice in this application. I would go with a 5W or 10w30 weight myself though not the 40 weight. Engine was built to run on a 30 weight I would believe seeing as it is an 02. Might have proper oil flow issues running the thicker oil.

 

[dave1251]

What kind of engine is this?

 

[charbaby]

dave1251,
Remember, I have an 'o2 Jeep Wrangler (x) with 9oK on the 4L, I6, in a cold New Jersey winter + 7o miles of mixed driving a day.

 

[ARMY_Guy]

Huh? oh. haha Nice. ;-)

-A

 

[tuckman]

Originally Posted By: FrankN4
Why not just make it a 10W-40 higm mileage with an HDEO base and get it all wrapped into one?


10W-X not the best for cold starts...try a 0w30 or 0W-40 HDEO or Mobil 1 0W-30

High Mileage oils and cold starts = engine noise for my truck and aerostar before the head gasket went, switched the truck to a 0w30 HDEO.

I agree with the MMO in gas but not in the oil.