- Feb 3, 2011
- Golden Meadow, LA
After band aiding the timing coolant leak with Stop Leak for the past year now, I've decided its time to finally dig into it and change the gasket. It only leaks when parked, a small drip for a few seconds that runs down the block from a bolt on the passenger side of the timing cover. For this reason I dont go far in the truck, I want it to be reliable thus my decision to change the gasket. I'm also going to throw on the Napa water pump I've been having for a year or two now. I have a Fel Pro TCS 45973 gasket kit, which comes with timing cover gasket, water pump gasket, a sleeve n seal with a tube of red loctite, a crank seal,and a tube of black rtv silicone. Will the sleeve n seal be necessary, Ive read about it, but have never installed one. also, where will the red loctite be applied? Im assuming the supplied rtv silicone is for the corners of the oil pan gasket, can someone confirm this? Im nervous about damaging the oil pan gasket. I can take it to my cousins shop and have him do it for $700 but i'd rather save some money, take my time, and learn along the way. To remove the crank bolt, can I just take it off with an impact and put it back on with the impact also? (Ive watched a few of fordtechmakuloco's videos on youtube, guy seems to be pretty knowledgable on fords and on the 3.0 vulcan he installed the crank bolt back with an impact.) Or should I torque it to proper specs? I'm usually a stickler when it comes to torque specs. Any info and helpful tips are appreciated.