253K on timing belt....

Joined
Jun 16, 2020
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4
Location
Missouri
I recently sold our 2006 Toyota Sequoia Limited, it had 253,000 miles on it, and I would rate it very good. It was always garaged and PM's were always kept up with. However, we went through some hard financial years and could never swing the expense of changing the timing belt. Before I sold it, I pulled back a cover and could see the top side of the belt, I saw no cracking, fraying, discoloration, or residue. I fully disclosed it to the buyer. I'm guessing it's running on borrowed time, or is it maybe OK?
 
Some people never change them and they last forever. I changed my 300ZX's belt at 100,000. Fsm says to change it every 105,000.
 
All of our timing belt driven vehicles have the original belt. Dad won’t let me replace something if it’s not broke even though I have explained to him why you should do it. At least my trucks are non interference engines so if it does break then it’s not as big of a deal but being 32 and 31 years old they could break anytime.
 
I’m pretty sure my old 89 Accord was on the original belt when it let go in 2005 accelerating up a hill. It had about 180,000 miles on it. The car was not well cared for by a friend who owned it before and I know he never replaced the timing belt. It looked pretty dried out at 16 years old, much more than what I’d expect a 6-8 year old belt would look like had it been changed. Slapped a new belt on it and drove it 800 miles the next day.

I’d say yours was on borrowed time but nobody knows til it lets go.
 
All of our timing belt driven vehicles have the original belt. Dad won’t let me replace something if it’s not broke even though I have explained to him why you should do it. At least my trucks are non interference engines so if it does break then it’s not as big of a deal but being 32 and 31 years old they could break anytime.
Livin' on the edge. :D
 
I did an anecdotal comparison between new Mitsubishi OEM timing belt vs new Gates. The Mitsu rubber seemed softer and more pliable. Mitsu OEM radiator hoses always lasted double vs Gates. Gates would crack faster. However; Gates rubber seemed harder and wouldn't bend as easy. Just my observation. I have no way to quantify this. Every application is different as is the environment. Perhaps harder is better in the short term IDK.
 
When I replaced the timing belt in my '04 Subaru Forester at 100k miles and 17 years, the original still looked fine. No cracks etc. But not all wear and stress is obvious upon visual inspection. These belts can break with no warning or visual indication of wear. With many engines, if that happens when the engine's running, the damage is severe enough the cost to repair can exceed the value of the engine. For most things I'm a "repair on condition" guy. If it ain't broke don't fix it. But for situations like this, where the part's condition can't be assessed by inspection and failures are catastrophic, I'm willing to replace blindly on service intervals.
 
When I replaced the timing belt in my '04 Subaru Forester at 100k miles and 17 years, the original still looked fine. No cracks etc. But not all wear and stress is obvious upon visual inspection. These belts can break with no warning or visual indication of wear. With many engines, if that happens when the engine's running, the damage is severe enough the cost to repair can exceed the value of the engine. For most things I'm a "repair on condition" guy. If it ain't broke don't fix it. But for situations like this, where the part's condition can't be assessed by inspection and failures are catastrophic, I'm willing to replace blindly on service intervals.
Especially if that part failure will lead to catastophic engine damage.
 
Timing belts are a complete gamble. I had a 97’ Camry that I changed the original timing belt at 185k miles, it was extremely cracked but didn’t break yet.

My current Camry went 95k miles on it’s previous timing belt and it snapped, no cracking. Luckily it’s a non-interference engine.
 
I'd stick to a mileage interval for replacement, not a time interval like some of the manufacturers suggest.
 
I drive longer with non-interference timing belts before changing. with the interference engines/belts, about 150K max. One of our cars the belt looked very bad at about 150K miles when it was changed ... My Tacoma was running fine at 275K miles. iirc both car wanted the belt changed at 80 or 100K miles.
 
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It could be the tensioner, pulleys or water pump failing that can cause the belt to fail.

I worked on two early 2000's Toyota Tundra's one with a V8 other with a V6. The V8 has 210,000mi on the original timing belt when I pulled one of the covers. No cracks, frays or abnormal noises. The V6 had 76,000 when the belt failed (more like blew up) because one of the idler pulleys locked up because of a leaking upper radiator hose leaking onto the bearings of the pulley.
 
On a V8 there is plenty of power in low RPM so it could explain it lasted this long. When I did the belt on my Highlander got back the old belt from the dealer and when inspected it and it was as it was NEW. So although it is surprising it lasted this long on your ride the one I replaced could have easily lasted 200K miles (did it at 140K). Yours is an example of how good the Japanese get their basics right - I paid $30 for the rear wipers and it has lasted 8 yrs and the ones made in America/China in the front need replacement every year. There goes American enginerring in the toiler
 
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