22RE - leaking antifreeze

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on an '85 Toyota with only 40k/5yrs on rebuilt.

It's leaking on the driver's side underneith the heat-shield; can't tell for sure if it's the steel pipe, cracked block, or headgasket - again!

It is not overheating, oil is not diluted, and running fine overall. However, it does not leak antifreeze til it gets to operating temperature, and then it "runs" out, not just dripping.

When the headgasket blew on the 1st engine it took the bearings with it, so we got a newly rebuilt engine that came with some glitches from the factory. The crankshaft was bent and busted, killing the engine - warranty covered it, and they rebuilt the whole engine, new bearings, rods, valves, headgasket, and the works.

This truck had new everything at the time of the new engine, radiator, hoses, and waterpump. It did get a little too warm about 2 months ago - thermostat went out, but it did not overheat, and recently we've had to replace 2 heater core/radiator hoses, but has never been ran low on antifreeze nor overheated.

Would like some thoughts as we're about to throw in the towel on this rig. Bought it with only 40k, 1st engine only lasted 199k miles with meticulous maintenance.
 
retourque your head bolts. see what happens. if you have to do the head gasket again use a metal head gasket only. no more problems. i have owned 3 trucks and a celica with the 22r series engines. i have had to do 3 head gaskets. one of them twice. the head bolts will work their way loose in time. i dont know why.
 
We'll see what the mechanic says and what he wants to charge to take the top of the engine off, if it comes to that. But $1k is the max we're willing to spend on this rig, we've always loved the idea of it being the last of it's kind.

But we don't have the option to work on something as detailed - we could if it wasn't needed as an everyday rig and we had a bigger garage. And I know a mechanic is gonna want $$$$ for a new gasket, valve adjustment, and so forth.

And we have to look at the realistic view of it as well - it has no A/C, 5-speed (which is getting hard on the knees), and rust is making it's way into reality pretty strongly.

The bummer of it though, is it has all new parts, alternator, battery, starter, hoses, tires, shocks, full tune-up as the darn thing is paid for with a NEW engine!

I'll keep you posted, thanks for the reply.
 
Well, we took off the heatshield, antifreeze IS seeping from the headgasket.

Great - perfect end to a wonderful Holiday.
 
groan...
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That really sucks.
 
Yes!!

We've been so badly wanting to have it repainted and a new bed put on - where rust has literally eatin the bottom of the bed out - but what can you do?

Right now I just want to roll it off a cliff - but, we won't get anything from Insurance for it, it's not worth anything at it's age
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BUT - reality tells us that, right now anyway, it would be cheaper to throw in a new headgasket then it would to fork out dough on a newer truck payment.

So, if it hasn't caused internal damage and it's under $1,200, we'll fix it - otherwise
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It's currently on a flatbed being hauled to town, our mechanic will have his fun tomorrow
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.

Thanks.
 
Yeah - I can't say we haven't, I think we were just hoping with $3-4k in the new engine we could've gotten at least another 10yrs, and not just 5yrs.

But, it is after all a small 4-cylinder hauling around a heavy p-up; and she's done her share of hunting, fishing, mild 4x4ing, so there's really nothing we have to complain about.

Timing can't be worse though, this truck IS our daily office and is used as a homebuilder's construction truck.
 
I'd replace that gasket. That would cost much less than a new truck.

Older vehicles will always require more maintenance but I prefer that to a new payment.
 
Agreed with others to fix it. You'll probably tire of the vehicle before this engine wears out.

I'm assuming the coolant was an external leak? I guess time will tell from the HG post-mortem.
 
As a last resort you could try a K&W metallic head gasket sealer... I know a lot of people will jump to me in here but it has worked very good on my headgasket leaks.
 
njc - that is the other part of the question of "do we fix it or not", as we are getting somewhat tired of the vehicle.

The seats are long since shot, it's a 5-speed, tricky one at that, and it just seems the ride is getting rougher the older she gets (should read the older WE get
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)

Rust has long since eatin the bed - it was going to get a new one this year, along with a paint job - Toyota's greatest weakness at the time she was built.

But she is paid for and a $1k goes a long way on one you're not making payments on. And I would do the same if it came to the other daily driver, as spending $1-2k is A LOT cheaper then today's market of $20-26k for a new little truck w/few options, or $28-38k fully loaded.

Can't find any little used Nissan's or Toyota's for under $15 without excessive mileage or being a 4x2. Having a 4x2 SUV is one thing, but I will not spend $16-20k on a 4x2 truck.

Will keep you posted. Haven't heard back from the mechanic, they are tearing down the top-end as we speak.

I'm hoping the engine itself is not effected - as then it would mean
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Can't justify putting a new engine in again, as if it were ever in an accident it wouldn't be covered and we'd lose out anyway.
 
it sounds like it was not rebuilt correctly from the get go.. get the head bolts re-tourqed properly and in the correct pattern and see if its better. it sounds like the gasket maybe gone though. the az headset is around $60 and new headbolts are ~30.. the toyota gasket is probably the best and can be bought by itself.
now..if/then, head maybe also issue then. even then you can get brand new head ready to install for around $400. if you were closer i'd sell you one out of my 85 or 86 that went to the bone yard last summer that are still very healthy... my vote would be to fix and drive it till the frame is cracked or rusted through.. get r' fixed and get a few more years out of it.

..mudd
 
I've just picked up this thread, Are you saying $1k for a new head Gasket and installation!
This is like 4 hours work, Max!
You say it's a New, Factory Engine!! I find it hard to belive that you or your mechanic has found such a thing. More like you bought a rebuilt motor and not a good one at that.
Do you know that you can buy all the parts to re build a 22r engine block, Pistons, Bearings Gaskets, Oil Pump etc, etc, for under $200.
That engine should be the strongest part of your Truck, I have had 22r's with over 500K on them, no problem.
Honestly I think you need to check out your mechanic.
 
Spitty - the engine was NOT a new engine, it was, in fact a rebuilt engine put in by a mechanic out in Las Vegas, NV, a place where rip-off's are the norm, so this is no surprise, really.

My mechanic here is the one fixing the headgasket leak that the rebuilt engine developed. His labor rates are $65/hour which is a lot cheaper then what the dealership wanted.

Yes, we are able to produce the parts cheap enough, but we don't have the garage space, nor the time to do the work ourselves - in which, the cost is nothing but labor.

Total bill was $950, but it included a new radiator, all new hoses, new heatercore, and the headgasket. This time around the engine was spared and in good overall shape.

We were told the gasket material used on the rebuilt engine was crappy to begin with.

I find it hard that the 22RE engine could go 500k or so without major headgasket issues. As the original engine - new from factory - in this truck was babied and VERY well taken care of, and yet the original HG blew at 199k, taking the overall engine with it.
 
i've only had 1 headgasket issue with my fleet (i've had more than a few at one time) and i believe that it was my fault do to a slightly crusty rad and a bad fan clutch. it got a little hot one day out of the blue and then once it cooled back down it was done. sucking antifreeze back down through cyl 3. the head was removed and it was still straight and there was no cracks. i cleaned it up and put in another oem toyota and was on my way. fan clutch and rad was also replaced.
I'd really suggest that you have the head retorqued and have the valves adjusted when you get about 500 to 1000 miles on it. it should'nt take your mech more than a few hours in labor either. the capability is there to get a ton of miles but the reality is that you'll break the chain guides several times during that time. which is somewhat a major failure and timely fix. aftermarket metal guides are available.
..mudd
 
First check that stupid pipe that takes coolant around the side of the block. These rust through all the time and leak all over the place. It is a steel pipe with a rubber hose on the one end. If that is not the source of the leak then retorque the head bolts. If my memory is functioning it should be 64lb-ft of torque. Even though you are simply checking the torque spec I would still follow the standard 22RE torque sequence.
 
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