Headgasket leak?
- Thread starter The Critic
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http://www.barsproducts.com/1111.htm
What do you have to lose?!? I've used this exact product for the intake manifold/gaskets leaking on my Dad's Olds 88 and it's worked perfectly. It specifically has ingredients that work with heat from the combustion chamber to seal internal leaks.
What do you have to lose?!? I've used this exact product for the intake manifold/gaskets leaking on my Dad's Olds 88 and it's worked perfectly. It specifically has ingredients that work with heat from the combustion chamber to seal internal leaks.
Update. I've put around 600 miles on the car since adding 1 full bottle of Bars Leak Liquid Aluminum solution:
http://www.barsproducts.com/1186.htm
Actually, maybe 85% of the bottle since I stupidly opened the surge tank when the coolant was very hot and some coolant came out.
Anyway, the leak is 95% gone. Maybe even 100%. I have not had to add any coolant at all, and the coolant level has not moved one bit ever since I added this sealer. It was only $7.99, and I didn't even have to drain the cooling system. Hopefully this has fixed it.
http://www.barsproducts.com/1186.htm
Actually, maybe 85% of the bottle since I stupidly opened the surge tank when the coolant was very hot and some coolant came out.
Anyway, the leak is 95% gone. Maybe even 100%. I have not had to add any coolant at all, and the coolant level has not moved one bit ever since I added this sealer. It was only $7.99, and I didn't even have to drain the cooling system. Hopefully this has fixed it.
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Update. I've put around 600 miles on the car since adding 1 full bottle of Bars Leak Liquid Aluminum solution:
http://www.barsproducts.com/1186.htm
Actually, maybe 85% of the bottle since I stupidly opened the surge tank when the coolant was very hot and some coolant came out.
Anyway, the leak is 95% gone. Maybe even 100%. I have not had to add any coolant at all, and the coolant level has not moved one bit ever since I added this sealer. It was only $7.99, and I didn't even have to drain the cooling system. Hopefully this has fixed it.
May I inquire how this was added? To coolant "As is" i.e. Coolant already in the engine, just opened up hot, poured in, and go?
I have had luck with sealers. Most of the time the leak reappeared when coolant was introduce. I believe that using a good SEALER oil, and a stopleak, CAN get it right.. adding some more along the way may help and i had one last a loong time that way, driven as normal.
At least one car i had, by using OIL Stop Leak (people hate it, i have had good results) AND coolant stop-leaks AT THE SAME TIME.. Car ran perfectly.
So! How did you add the product? I believe small leaks CAN be permanently stopped.. or for a long time, whichever the unique situation is.
And YES, i know that people hate LUCAS OIL STOP-LEAK with a passion. I believe it GREATLY HELPS leaks of this kind, as the oil passes over the gasket too.
Update. I've put around 600 miles on the car since adding 1 full bottle of Bars Leak Liquid Aluminum solution:
http://www.barsproducts.com/1186.htm
Actually, maybe 85% of the bottle since I stupidly opened the surge tank when the coolant was very hot and some coolant came out.
Anyway, the leak is 95% gone. Maybe even 100%. I have not had to add any coolant at all, and the coolant level has not moved one bit ever since I added this sealer. It was only $7.99, and I didn't even have to drain the cooling system. Hopefully this has fixed it.
May I inquire how this was added? To coolant "As is" i.e. Coolant already in the engine, just opened up hot, poured in, and go?
I have had luck with sealers. Most of the time the leak reappeared when coolant was introduce. I believe that using a good SEALER oil, and a stopleak, CAN get it right.. adding some more along the way may help and i had one last a loong time that way, driven as normal.
At least one car i had, by using OIL Stop Leak (people hate it, i have had good results) AND coolant stop-leaks AT THE SAME TIME.. Car ran perfectly.
So! How did you add the product? I believe small leaks CAN be permanently stopped.. or for a long time, whichever the unique situation is.
And YES, i know that people hate LUCAS OIL STOP-LEAK with a passion. I believe it GREATLY HELPS leaks of this kind, as the oil passes over the gasket too.
The liquid aluminum was poured directly into the pressurized surge tank. This tank receives lots of flow so the sealant was circulated into the system within a short period of time.
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Update. I've put around 600 miles on the car since adding 1 full bottle of Bars Leak Liquid Aluminum solution:
http://www.barsproducts.com/1186.htm
Actually, maybe 85% of the bottle since I stupidly opened the surge tank when the coolant was very hot and some coolant came out.
Anyway, the leak is 95% gone. Maybe even 100%. I have not had to add any coolant at all, and the coolant level has not moved one bit ever since I added this sealer. It was only $7.99, and I didn't even have to drain the cooling system. Hopefully this has fixed it.
Sweetness! When I add stuff to the system I try to get it into the *heart* of the system; surge tanks and overflows don't cut it for me, because of all the air. We're trying to find a product that reacts with air and turns solid, basically, and the least of that that can get in the surge tank the better.
So my general SOP is to drain about a quart of coolant, put a pint in a gatorade bottle with the miracle fix, shake it up, install it, and top off with the rest. In your saturn example this gets into the heater/bypass hose and right into the system, thermostat open or closed.
Update. I've put around 600 miles on the car since adding 1 full bottle of Bars Leak Liquid Aluminum solution:
http://www.barsproducts.com/1186.htm
Actually, maybe 85% of the bottle since I stupidly opened the surge tank when the coolant was very hot and some coolant came out.
Anyway, the leak is 95% gone. Maybe even 100%. I have not had to add any coolant at all, and the coolant level has not moved one bit ever since I added this sealer. It was only $7.99, and I didn't even have to drain the cooling system. Hopefully this has fixed it.
Sweetness! When I add stuff to the system I try to get it into the *heart* of the system; surge tanks and overflows don't cut it for me, because of all the air. We're trying to find a product that reacts with air and turns solid, basically, and the least of that that can get in the surge tank the better.
So my general SOP is to drain about a quart of coolant, put a pint in a gatorade bottle with the miracle fix, shake it up, install it, and top off with the rest. In your saturn example this gets into the heater/bypass hose and right into the system, thermostat open or closed.
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Update. I've put around 600 miles on the car since adding 1 full bottle of Bars Leak Liquid Aluminum solution:
http://www.barsproducts.com/1186.htm
Actually, maybe 85% of the bottle since I stupidly opened the surge tank when the coolant was very hot and some coolant came out.
Anyway, the leak is 95% gone. Maybe even 100%. I have not had to add any coolant at all, and the coolant level has not moved one bit ever since I added this sealer. It was only $7.99, and I didn't even have to drain the cooling system. Hopefully this has fixed it.
Sweetness! When I add stuff to the system I try to get it into the *heart* of the system; surge tanks and overflows don't cut it for me, because of all the air. We're trying to find a product that reacts with air and turns solid, basically, and the least of that that can get in the surge tank the better.
So my general SOP is to drain about a quart of coolant, put a pint in a gatorade bottle with the miracle fix, shake it up, install it, and top off with the rest. In your saturn example this gets into the heater/bypass hose and right into the system, thermostat open or closed.
I honestly think that opening up a Radiator Hose to let some pressure out when the car is turned off and then opening up the cap fast then taking off the Upper Hose, then adding it in to there (making note of flow of coolant) then replacing hose then topping up starting car right away when it is good and hot then letting it idle for 10 minutes all heater controls on if they work then driving for an hour or so.. works. HEAT is the key. And ditto on adding the cure to HOT water then IMMEDIATELY into the "Engine" as much as you can get it.. because if its going to work it needs a few to seal, then nice, easy driving.
From then on, nice, easy driving should be maintained. You now have filled a hole in a gasket, so you need to KEEP it there. Id add some if/when you check the level (if it stopped going down, etc) and call it fixed.
Also, Lucas Stop-Leak may do nothing. But it MIGHT HELP!
Bar's Aluminum is good because it works IN the coolant. The water only ones will seal too.. then go away when coolant is replaced.
Yes or no?
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Update. I've put around 600 miles on the car since adding 1 full bottle of Bars Leak Liquid Aluminum solution:
http://www.barsproducts.com/1186.htm
Actually, maybe 85% of the bottle since I stupidly opened the surge tank when the coolant was very hot and some coolant came out.
Anyway, the leak is 95% gone. Maybe even 100%. I have not had to add any coolant at all, and the coolant level has not moved one bit ever since I added this sealer. It was only $7.99, and I didn't even have to drain the cooling system. Hopefully this has fixed it.
Sweetness! When I add stuff to the system I try to get it into the *heart* of the system; surge tanks and overflows don't cut it for me, because of all the air. We're trying to find a product that reacts with air and turns solid, basically, and the least of that that can get in the surge tank the better.
So my general SOP is to drain about a quart of coolant, put a pint in a gatorade bottle with the miracle fix, shake it up, install it, and top off with the rest. In your saturn example this gets into the heater/bypass hose and right into the system, thermostat open or closed.
I honestly think that opening up a Radiator Hose to let some pressure out when the car is turned off and then opening up the cap fast then taking off the Upper Hose, then adding it in to there (making note of flow of coolant) then replacing hose then topping up starting car right away when it is good and hot then letting it idle for 10 minutes all heater controls on if they work then driving for an hour or so.. works. HEAT is the key. And ditto on adding the cure to HOT water then IMMEDIATELY into the "Engine" as much as you can get it.. because if its going to work it needs a few to seal, then nice, easy driving.
From then on, nice, easy driving should be maintained. You now have filled a hole in a gasket, so you need to KEEP it there. Id add some if/when you check the level (if it stopped going down, etc) and call it fixed.
Also, Lucas Stop-Leak may do nothing. But it MIGHT HELP!
Bar's Aluminum is good because it works IN the coolant. The water only ones will seal too.. then go away when coolant is replaced.
Yes or no?
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