I mean kinda makes sense haha
210,000 miles with K&N air intake system
- Thread starter Georgiey22
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I mean kinda makes sense haha
My overall anecdotal lifetime K&N use here in mid-atlantic suburbia "normal" use:
1) 2003 VW Passat W8 - ~2 years/10K miles
2) 2018 VW Atlas - ~5 years/45K miles
3) 2008 Lexus RX350 - ~3 years/20K miles
4) 2013 Ford Focus - ~10 years/125K
5) 2018 VW Golf Sportwagen - ~4 years/90K miles
On all of these vehicles, there have never been issues with 1) any UOAs showing elevated SiO2 related to filtration* 2) oil consumption issues 3) dirty intake hoses/tracts** or 4) fouled MAFs. I typically clean the filters at try recommended 50K here b/c we are in a low dust area but sometimes out of convenience at shorter intervals.
*On the Sportwagen I have had elevated SiO2 that corresponded to 1) repairs/sealers in ares where oil flows/touches and 2) HPL oil that has more SiO2 in it than other oils I've used accounting for the increase in the UOAs.
**On the Sportwagen, last year I switched intakes to one with a dry flow filter from one with an oiled filter. At this point I am not overly impressed as when I had things apart recently there was a fair bit of dust in the intake hose - it's the first time I've seen that so not sure there....I may see if K&N makes a filter in the correct size/dimensions and swap it out for the oiled media as my anecdotal evidence supports better filtration...could also just be that I need to disassemble the intake and make sure it's not come loose etc. Folks seem to really like the dry filters so not sure here as they have been shown to have higher filtering efficiency vs. K&N at the expense of a little flow.
1) 2003 VW Passat W8 - ~2 years/10K miles
2) 2018 VW Atlas - ~5 years/45K miles
3) 2008 Lexus RX350 - ~3 years/20K miles
4) 2013 Ford Focus - ~10 years/125K
5) 2018 VW Golf Sportwagen - ~4 years/90K miles
On all of these vehicles, there have never been issues with 1) any UOAs showing elevated SiO2 related to filtration* 2) oil consumption issues 3) dirty intake hoses/tracts** or 4) fouled MAFs. I typically clean the filters at try recommended 50K here b/c we are in a low dust area but sometimes out of convenience at shorter intervals.
*On the Sportwagen I have had elevated SiO2 that corresponded to 1) repairs/sealers in ares where oil flows/touches and 2) HPL oil that has more SiO2 in it than other oils I've used accounting for the increase in the UOAs.
**On the Sportwagen, last year I switched intakes to one with a dry flow filter from one with an oiled filter. At this point I am not overly impressed as when I had things apart recently there was a fair bit of dust in the intake hose - it's the first time I've seen that so not sure there....I may see if K&N makes a filter in the correct size/dimensions and swap it out for the oiled media as my anecdotal evidence supports better filtration...could also just be that I need to disassemble the intake and make sure it's not come loose etc. Folks seem to really like the dry filters so not sure here as they have been shown to have higher filtering efficiency vs. K&N at the expense of a little flow.
That's the entire point of the oil....that's what handles the filtration while maintaining the high "see through" flow.
Where does the "cold" portion come into play. To me the condition under the hood is much more extreme than the engine breathing in atmospheric air from outside. My kid had a beat up Jetta he picked up that was CAI. Filter would be wet after car wash.
It's not really a CAI - just an open-element intake is what I call it. I've run them and never had water issues with washing or driving in the rain...I'm sure it's just dependent on the car's setup w/r to it's stock intake track/pathway.
The setup in post 61 looks more like a hot air intake setup. Especially at slow city driving and idling situations. At least the open elements located up close to the grill have a better chance of not sucking hot air.
They are that for sure depending on the setup. What testing on the VWs has shown is that...it really doesn't matter b/c any increase in temp to the turbo is negated fully by the intercooler. So take the flow basically over the warmer air to the turbo. It does however cause the turbo to have to spin *a little bit* faster to compress the slightly less dense air...that's about all.
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We keep one K&N in the van and one outside the van and rotate during cleanings.
Easy…my floorjack took a dump after a long week. I was in the mood for sitting around and not doing it. I was the guy checking torque on the lug nuts before pulling away. I’m a DIY nightmare.
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I think the AEM Dryflo and the Injen Super Nano-web filters are better options without the cleaning pains. I'm pretty sure the Injen Nano-webs use the same tech as the air filters Amsoil was selling for a while did.
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D
Deleted member 89374
"The best oil filter is a good air filter." - someone on BITOG
I have them on 3 of my vehicles. 2 with over 150k. Still running. I change the filters after 100k miles with a new dryflow for piece of mind. The Injen was also replaced with a similar sized AEM. Injen redesigned the filter and the new version didn't fit correctly.
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I like the dry flow filters. AFE in my 15 Tacoma and AEM in my wife’s 19 Pilot. Every 30K I lightly blow them out, nothing special. Got at least 90K on the AFE and 40K on the AEM.
Based on this post and recent oil change in my Atlas that I've had a drop-in K&N installed since ~4K...had a look today. ~44.5K on the vehicle so ~40K on K&N. Haven't ever cleaned it. Filter looked good/clean on downstream side and dirty (not terrible) on upstream side; didn't grab a pic unfortunately. But I did pop the MAF sensor connector and had a look inside the intake tube. Clean as can be and no oily film. I'll clean/re-oil at 55K so ~50K on filter. I've done a few UOAs on the Atlas and none showed elevated SiO2. No MAF issues. Basically same experience that I've had with all my K&N filters..."no drama".
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Same. I’ve used K&N and AFE dry panel filters on all of my cars and never ever had silicone or particulate out of nominal in my UOAs. In fact they’re usually lower than the averages.
Let’s say UOAs don’t matter. Furthermore the K&N panel filter in my truck now actually was provided by Ford and came with their engine tune, which preserves factory warranty! Even Toyota offers a washable ungraded filter I thought. Two big OEMs are backing these air filters and that says a lot.
For sure in a performance-oriented situation and either way, K&N drop-in filters should never impact a warranty or "void" it (hate that term w/r to this discussion). It rides a line/grey area really between "OE-equivalent" parts that should be within the scope of the Mag-Moss act and performance replacement parts which are not within the scope of MM. So easy to pop it out/replace with an OE filter if you have warranty concerns anyway. I still don't think I'ver seen a proper example of a K&N giving high SiO2 readings that wasn't related to improper care/maintenance or fit.
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OVERKILL
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That'd be interesting if true, that was Donaldson media, same stuff as you see in the PowerCore filters sold through Volant, but in panel and cone form.
At 19.45mins mark 9nwards in the youtube video attached the curse has been lifted.
K&N air filters undeserved curse lifted!
David Vizard early researcher in the development of the K&N filter 40 years ago says the "steady state air will pass more particulate, but due to the pulsating/ vibrations in the intake system, that's how the K&N was designed to work .............. ie the various layers of fibres "sweep" and trap the microscopic fines from the air instake systemCan the ISO 5011 flow test rig be setup such that the filter can mimic the pulsating/ vibrations claimed.
BTW in my opinion the claim by David Vizard is just as valid as the claims of high Si from using K&Ns that are made; without a UOA/s monitoring process to establish a baseline for a sufficient number of OCIs under the same testing conditions and carrying out of a VOA of the engine oil in question to validate the UOA. There are various operating conditions that lead / cause elevated Si levels other than using a K&N filter.
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Sorry wrong link above, see this one.
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