- Apr 6, 2015
- Upper midwest
Yes, it is a shame Hyundai chose not to add AWD to the Kona N. I had money down at the dealer a year before it came out thinking they would AWD the Kona N. I found out through Asian Youtuber's that all the test mules were 2wd, so I pulled my money. I decided to just keep my 2018 Kona 1.6T AWD and keep building it, most was already done by that time anyway. AWD is to important to me in performance driving, Minnesota winters, and towing a small boat to go 2wd.PUP seems more than adequate for the 3K intervals. Plan was to start at 3K intervals and switch to manual recommended intervals of 6K after X miles.
I would be willing to do teardowns if I had the training. Outside of seeing numbers way out of range, personal use of the data is mostly limited to a general health checkup.
The primary reason for the post is to provide the community with data on my specific car/engine running from start to finish on different oils. I also appreciate when a company is active in forums and provides good customer support. My email correspondence was with David. If the oil comes back looking good, plan is to use it for track days. I apologies if the information is not formatted proper, I consolidated the data from multiple PDF's sent my way. I actually have TBN data for all but the latest sample, my apologies again, seems I posted the wrong snip.
How you liking the 1.6T engine so far BTW? It's a real shame AWD isn't offered on the Kona N, on top of the US version missing many features offered in the EU.
As far as warranty, it is up to want level you are comfortable at battling Hyundai. A lot of their bark on warranty is just bark. Ask me how I know. No don't ask me. They abuse the Magnusen-Moss Warranty Act. God help the Canadians, with their abuse.You just need to throw that back into their face and they shut up, IF YOU have a simple cut and dry MMWA case they abuse.
As far as oil, 99.9% of the time multi brand of dealers simply check for semi-clean oil, oil at the proper level, check that the oil is not red (tranny fluid), it doesn't smell like gear oil. And in some cases check data for a over rpm money shift on manuals and pull a valve cover for sludge/or your oil change info. If all is good their and you are in warranty, you will get a new motor or warranty repair. Hyundai/Kia is "notorious" for charging $1,000-$1,500 to"partially pull the engine apart to check for sludge" they try to bully or money grub you. When a $200 R&R valve cover inspection is all that is needed to check for sludge. Let alone a simple look or bore scope in the valve cover oil fill is all that is needed.
I had no worries when my car was "sort of in warranty" running non suggested oils. I run A3 gas/diesel Mid SAP oils. Better oils then they specd back in 2018 by a wide margin.
For your use case, PUP is good for 4,000+mile dumps. Your wasting oil at 3,000 mile dumps. But it ends up being your choice. Better for the guy who buys your car in the long run.