2022 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.5T, HPL No VII PCMO 5W-30 , 6K mi (~6mo)

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Hello folks,

Here is the UOA for HPL NoVII PCMO 5W-30 in a Hyundai's new smart stream 2.5T engine. Ended up changing the oil along with transmission 56K mi recommended service, but the UOA shows the engine has plenty of life left. Here are my observations:

No change in viscosity, not much fuel dilution (1.5%)
TBN is at 7.54 down by about 4.7 units from 12.2 in VOA.
Oxidation increased from 23 to 28, 5 units increase in 6K mi.
Al level is below the VOA, which probably indicates the VOA was bogus.
Iron is around 1ppm/1Kmi.

I had posted the UOA before for the same batch: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/hpl-no-vii-pcmo-5w-30-voa.380636/

1726543348425.webp
 
Hello folks,

Here is the UOA for HPL NoVII PCMO 5W-30 in a Hyundai's new smart stream 2.5T engine. Ended up changing the oil along with transmission 56K mi recommended service, but the UOA shows the engine has plenty of life left. Here are my observations:

No change in viscosity, not much fuel dilution (1.5%)
TBN is at 7.54 down by about 4.7 units from 12.2 in VOA.
Oxidation increased from 23 to 28, 5 units increase in 6K mi.
Al level is below the VOA, which probably indicates the VOA was bogus.
Iron is around 1ppm/1Kmi.

I had posted the UOA before for the same batch: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/hpl-no-vii-pcmo-5w-30-voa.380636/

View attachment 240802
Have a 23 Hyundai Santa Fe (Turbo) calls for 0W30. Do you think I could use a 5W30 instead? Reason: Pennzoil ONLY carries a 0W30 (Euro)! And of course, Hyundai is Korean. And the back of the container of oil is not marked ILSC GF6A. The climate in Philly never gets below 0F. Usually stays in the mid 30's or 40's F and car is garage kept. Would appreciate any advice. PS Have 0W20 in the engine now.
 
Have a 23 Hyundai Santa Fe (Turbo) calls for 0W30. Do you think I could use a 5W30 instead? Reason: Pennzoil ONLY carries a 0W30 (Euro)! And of course, Hyundai is Korean. And the back of the container of oil is not marked ILSC GF6A. The climate in Philly never gets below 0F. Usually stays in the mid 30's or 40's F and car is garage kept. Would appreciate any advice. PS Have 0W20 in the engine now.
Above -30 or so any oil with a 5W winter rating is acceptable for starting. At 0F you could use an oil with a 10W rating.
 
Have a 23 Hyundai Santa Fe (Turbo) calls for 0W30. Do you think I could use a 5W30 instead? Reason: Pennzoil ONLY carries a 0W30 (Euro)! And of course, Hyundai is Korean. And the back of the container of oil is not marked ILSC GF6A. The climate in Philly never gets below 0F. Usually stays in the mid 30's or 40's F and car is garage kept. Would appreciate any advice. PS Have 0W20 in the engine now.
U should use the recommended viscosity to maintain warranty. I also reside in SE PA and 5W is good till -30F unless u decide to goto the Poconos in mid-January for a polar vortex ski resort weekend. Lol. If u want to live on the edge u could go HPL VII Euro 5w-30 since it has cold crank simulator cst close to the 0w-20 cst. It has VII so it has better cold crank viscosity than the non VII HPL oil.

Just remember u have a Hyundai, direct injection, turbo, and a corporate history of oil consumption. That is four strikes which means max 4 to 5 k oil changes with constant monitoring of the oil level every 1k.

Sorry.

IMG_9157.webp
 
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U should use the recommended viscosity to maintain warranty. I also reside in SE PA and 5W is good till -20F unless u decide to goto Poconos in mid-January polar vortex for a ski resort weekend. If u want to live on the edge u could go HPL VII Euro 5w-30 since it has cold crank simulator cst close to the 0w-20 cst. It has VII so it has better cold crank viscosity.

Just remember u have a Hyundai, direct injection, turbo, and a corporate history of oil consumption. That is four strikes which means max 4 to 5 k oil changes with constant monitoring of the oil level every 1k.

Sorry.

View attachment 255403
Grade is not a condition of warranty. If anything the presence of a required API license or ILSAC standard would be more influential.

If you're ignoring that then there is zero reason to worry about grade and especially not a specific winter rating. Besides, he's better off with a higher grade anyway.
 
Have a 23 Hyundai Santa Fe (Turbo) calls for 0W30. Do you think I could use a 5W30 instead? Reason: Pennzoil ONLY carries a 0W30 (Euro)! And of course, Hyundai is Korean. And the back of the container of oil is not marked ILSC GF6A. The climate in Philly never gets below 0F. Usually stays in the mid 30's or 40's F and car is garage kept. Would appreciate any advice. PS Have 0W20 in the engine now.
My cars manual says 0W-30 SN-plus. I use 5W-30 or 0W-30 depending on if I do the oil change or I take it to the dealer for regular maintenance. Contract-wise I am not 100 sure that anything other than what manual says is ok, but mechanically it should be totally fine to use xW-30 SN+/SP as kachachn said above.
 
My cars manual says 0W-30 SN-plus. I use 5W-30 or 0W-30 depending on if I do the oil change or I take it to the dealer for regular maintenance. Contract-wise I am not 100 sure that anything other than what manual says is ok, but mechanically it should be totally fine to use xW-30 SN+/SP as kachachn said above.
Thank you sir!
 
Grade is not a condition of warranty. If anything the presence of a required API license or ILSAC standard would be more influential.

If you're ignoring that then there is zero reason to worry about grade and especially not a specific winter rating. Besides, he's better off with a higher grade anyway.
Thank You sir
 
Grade is not a condition of warranty. If anything the presence of a required API license or ILSAC standard would be more influential.

If you're ignoring that then there is zero reason to worry about grade and especially not a specific winter rating. Besides, he's better off with a higher grade anyway.
Thank You sir
 
Patrick said it best. These engines are value-priced / value made. Short OCIs and keep the oil level at full.

This oil is great for your engine. It's just costly to use. I have it currently in our 2.0 Kia and I could care-less that folks here don't approve of my short OCIs.

I do what's best for me and not them. No crutches like drugs, gambling, cigarettes or gambling that involve excess $$$$.
I can easily afford expensive boutique oils at short OCIs. I treat my cheap engines like a King.

Ignore the ones that say what we're doing is a waste. It's really not.
 
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Patrick said it best. These engines are value-priced / value made. Short OCIs and keep the oil level at full.

This oil is great for your engine. It's just costly to use. I have it currently in our 2.0 Kia and I could care-less that folks here don't approve of my short OCIs.

I do what's best for me and not them. No crutches like drugs, gambling, cigarettes or gambling that involve excess $$$$.
I can easily afford expensive boutique oils at short OCIs. I treat my cheap engines like a King.

Ignore the ones that say what we're doing is a waste. It's really not.
Agreed sir!
 
U should use the recommended viscosity to maintain warranty. I also reside in SE PA and 5W is good till -30F unless u decide to goto the Poconos in mid-January for a polar vortex ski resort weekend. Lol. If u want to live on the edge u could go HPL VII Euro 5w-30 since it has cold crank simulator cst close to the 0w-20 cst. It has VII so it has better cold crank viscosity than the non VII HPL oil.

Just remember u have a Hyundai, direct injection, turbo, and a corporate history of oil consumption. That is four strikes which means max 4 to 5 k oil changes with constant monitoring of the oil level every 1k.

Sorry.

View attachment 255403
That belongs to the 2.4L engines of the past. The 1.6T and 2.5/2.5T Smartstream do not have the problems, and are dual injected as well.
 
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