2022 Kona N HPL Premium PCMO 5W30 UOA

Keep in mind the fuel % figure provided by Blackstone is not accurate.
Hello Overkill, thank you very much for pointing this out. I've contacted Blackstone and will be adding their reply to the original post soon.

So, am I missing something, or have you not used or tested the HPL yet? If that’s the case, the title is a bit misleading.
Impatient, I apologize for this and assure you that is not my intention. I figured that given the nature of the post, multiple samples spanning different oils, I could start the post off before any HPL results were on hand. While I don't yet have the oil results, I put the money down and have the HPL case in my possession.
HPL Case.jpg
 
Would you be intersested in sharing a blank copy of that spreadsheet (so all the blackstone stuff can stay but your specific numbers can be empty)? I've thought about starting one using the Blackstone template too but just haven't gotten to it yet.
 
What is your expectation through use of UOAs here w/r to these various oils?
 
Would you be intersested in sharing a blank copy of that spreadsheet (so all the blackstone stuff can stay but your specific numbers can be empty)? I've thought about starting one using the Blackstone template too but just haven't gotten to it yet.
Let me see what I can do about this hemioiler.

What is your expectation through use of UOAs here w/r to these various oils?
My expectation is the info will provide some amount of usefulness to the community, whatever forum members or non-members take from it. Given the oil being used is the main topic of this specific thread, I will be posting 4 results using HPL Premium PCMO 5W30 before I stop updating the data. As always, am open to suggestions and discussions.
 
Hello Overkill, thank you very much for pointing this out. I've contacted Blackstone and will be adding their reply to the original post soon.


Impatient, I apologize for this and assure you that is not my intention. I figured that given the nature of the post, multiple samples spanning different oils, I could start the post off before any HPL results were on hand. While I don't yet have the oil results, I put the money down and have the HPL case in my possession.
View attachment 141685
and apologies back at you, I didn’t mean to be gruff. It occurred to me later that was what you were going to do. but you did get my attention mentioning HPL in your title. It would be awesome to have some 6k-10k results from Pennzoil to compare to something similar with HPL (Or however long you intend to run one fill of it.).
 
and apologies back at you, I didn’t mean to be gruff. It occurred to me later that was what you were going to do. but you did get my attention mentioning HPL in your title. It would be awesome to have some 6k-10k results from Pennzoil to compare to something similar with HPL (Or however long you intend to run one fill of it.).
All good mate, no worries. I'm running 6K intervals on HPL, that is the OCI recommended by the owners manual. I can definitely follow up the 4 HPL 6K results with 4 PUP 6K results, not a problem Impatient.
 
Well, I doubt I’ll be returning to PUP without a sea-change at Pennzoil, but am definitely interested in your HPL results…but would be awesome to have apples-to-apples comparison HPL to run-of-the-mill synthetic oil (rightly or wrongly, I consider PUP ROTM…maybe upper end ROTM, maybe mid-pack ROTM). Would also really like HPL to Amsoil SS comparison…semi-unicorn to maybe-semi-unicorn.
 
I wanted to thank you for taking the time to do this for the "N" community, I picked up a 2023 Elantra N and reserved my factory fill oil as well and had the same plans you did of documenting different oil types but unfortunately my lack of willingness to ship stuff around got the best of me. I share the same experience of Hyundai's service department being laughable and trying to put in 0w-20 oil instead of the proper oil, which made me decide to let the "free" oil changes go out the wayside. I have put together a spreadsheet and documented all oil changes due to fears of Hyundai declining warranty work for self oil changes as I have read they will find any excuse possible to decline warranty repairs.

I am a little curious if you were able to get a document or anything from Hyundai saying that the 5w-30 was okay in the car, I have been eyeballing 5w-30 PUP for a while now. I know it will not hurt the car what-so-ever and would much prefer to run a good 5w-30 to the Mobil 1 AFE 0w-30 I am running now to abide by the manual (I feel it's a bit more noisy than the factory fill). I know Amsoil has a 0w-30 but I have a hard time running Amsoil due to the hatred of the "salesman" style of business.

Just so you know my tensioner looks similar only after 4200 miles lol.
 
Last edited:
I’m not sure what you’re asking, the winter rating is irrelevant for the grade here except for your expected starting temperature.

And Mobil 1 ESP is about as good as it gets.
Hyundai historically at least in some of the N Owners Groups I am in tried to decline warranty work for absolutely any reason possible. While I understand the irrelevant starting temperature, it's more of an issue with Hyundai using it as a possible crutch to try to decline warranty repairs that I am concerned with. I am glad to see your review of Mobil 1, I did realize after the fact I am running the "AFE" version to abide by the API SN PLUS Standard called for in the Hyundai Manual. I would be running the recommended Shell Helix oil Hyundai recommends but it cannot be found here in the US.
In the owners manual they show 0w-30 as the ONLY correct grade.
 

Attachments

  • Oil Type.jpg
    Oil Type.jpg
    27.7 KB · Views: 19
Lol, I would love to see them run a test that actually measures the winter rating of an oil. This isn't a $30 Blackstone UOA.

Besides, SAE J300 allows the winter rating to slip one grade under use so the whole notion that a warranty would be predicated on a specific winter rating is a bit ridiculous.

Notice the Owner's manual says recommended, that's because all grade recommendations are... recommendations. No warranty is predicated on grade. It's not the only "correct" grade.
 
Hyundai historically at least in some of the N Owners Groups I am in tried to decline warranty work for absolutely any reason possible. While I understand the irrelevant starting temperature, it's more of an issue with Hyundai using it as a possible crutch to try to decline warranty repairs that I am concerned with. I am glad to see your review of Mobil 1, I did realize after the fact I am running the "AFE" version to abide by the API SN PLUS Standard called for in the Hyundai Manual. I would be running the recommended Shell Helix oil Hyundai recommends but it cannot be found here in the US.
In the owners manual they show 0w-30 as the ONLY correct grade.
They show 0W30 as the "recommended" grade. And why is there a concern with the zero winter rating? They are both 30 grade oils.
 
Last edited:
Lol, I would love to see them run a test that actually measures the winter rating of an oil. This isn't a $30 Blackstone UOA.

Besides, SAE J300 allows the winter rating to slip one grade under use so the whole notion that a warranty would be predicated on a specific winter rating is a bit ridiculous.

Notice the Owner's manual says recommended, that's because all grade recommendations are... recommendations. No warranty is predicated on grade. It's not the only "correct" grade.
Excellent! You seem to be a very regular poster on here and seem knowledgeable on the proper oil choices. What oil would you personally recommend? PUP? Amsoil? I do want to abide by the SN PLUS standard if possible for LSPI.
 
I wanted to thank you for taking the time to do this for the "N" community, I picked up a 2023 Elantra N and reserved my factory fill oil as well and had the same plans you did of documenting different oil types but unfortunately my lack of willingness to ship stuff around got the best of me. I share the same experience of Hyundai's service department being laughable and trying to put in 0w-20 oil instead of the proper oil, which made me decide to let the "free" oil changes go out the wayside. I have put together a spreadsheet and documented all oil changes due to fears of Hyundai declining warranty work for self oil changes as I have read they will find any excuse possible to decline warranty repairs.

I am a little curious if you were able to get a document or anything from Hyundai saying that the 5w-30 was okay in the car, I have been eyeballing 5w-30 PUP for a while now. I know it will not hurt the car what-so-ever and would much prefer to run a good 5w-30 to the Mobil 1 AFE 0w-30 I am running now to abide by the manual (I feel it's a bit more noisy than the factory fill). I know Amsoil has a 0w-30 but I have a hard time running Amsoil due to the hatred of the "salesman" style of business.

Just so you know my tensioner looks similar only after 4200 miles lol.

Hi RHD, I always highly recommend people not willing or able to deal with warranty denials cover their bases. I actually had to directly message a higher up at Hyundai for the rep to answer my oil question, clarifying 5W30 as approved. The clarification came through an email exchange, which I documented and saved.

I don't at all feel your worries are unwarranted, having a record stating you were allowed to deviate from the manual's recommendation is absolutely reasonable. I'm going to add the same disclaimer on this post that was added on Reddit after seeing people being a bit too comfortable with my section regarding oil viscosity. I understand you own an Elantra N but will include a snip of my Kona N's owner's manual for the community to see as well. Depending on the manual, the chart can list multiple viscosities, my car only list 0W30.

Dealer experience has been subpar, after starting cases and making phone calls, the manufacturer also worries me. I attempt to be reasonable as we are all human but don't ignore the sensory data, it is all we have to go by.

Edit: Would you happen to have a picture of your tensioner RHD?
 

Attachments

  • Oil Weight.jpg
    Oil Weight.jpg
    138.8 KB · Views: 36
Hi RHD, I always highly recommend people not willing or able to deal with warranty denials cover their bases. I actually had to directly message a higher up at Hyundai for the rep to answer my oil question, clarifying 5W30 as approved. The clarification came through an email exchange, which I documented and saved.

I don't at all feel your worries are unwarranted, having a record stating you were allowed to deviate from the manual's recommendation is absolutely reasonable. I'm going to add the same disclaimer on this post that was added on Reddit after seeing people being a bit too comfortable with my section regarding oil viscosity. I understand you own an Elantra N but will include a snip of my Kona N's owner's manual for the community to see as well. Depending on the manual, the chart can list multiple viscosities, my car only list 0W30.

Dealer experience has been subpar, after starting cases and making phone calls, the manufacturer also worries me. I attempt to be reasonable as we are all human but don't ignore the sensory data, it is all we have to go by.

Edit: Would you happen to have a picture of your tensioner RHD?
I'd say that wording is unambiguous.
 
Yes, but some people apparently have a difficult time comprehending the totality of what is written and extrapolate it to something unwarranted.
I agree - in the case of "XYZ car company recommends ABC oil viscosity." which is quite different that what is written in this one.
 
On the other hand, in light of this iron-clad requirement how should the poster interpret where it says "however, higher viscosity engine oils are required for satisfactory lubrication in hot weather?"

If you note it's the only statement in the whole thing that actually uses the word "required."
 
Last edited:
On the other hand, in light of this iron-clad requirement how should the poster interpret where it says "however, higher viscosity engine oils are required for satisfactory lubrication in hot weather?"

If you note it's actually the only statement in the whole thing that actually uses the word "required."
Yep. I've seen that same ambiguous language on other owner's manual post w/r to oil. So as is said over and over....go thicker not thinner and you will be fine.
 
Top