2022 Kawasaki Versys-300; Supertech 10W-40 motorcycle oil 2.5k mi

[Rally2045]

2022 Kawasaki Versys-300 2,499 mile interval, Supertech 10W-40 motorcycle oil. Elevated copper.

Not really liking the shear on this oil, currently trying Rotella 15W-40 T6, might change to something else. To clarify it’s Supertech moto oil, JASO and all that.

I am curious about the elevated copper but I’ll probably see where it’s at after the next analysis.

 

[fantastic]

Just keep testing to determine what to make of the Cu. This liquid cooled?

 

[Rally2045]

Just keep testing to determine what to make of the Cu. This liquid cooled?

Yes

 

[Bonz]

I believe the OCI for the Versys 300 is 7600 miles, why so soon? Since it began to shear so quickly, good that you did the analysis to see that trend with this oil. In any case, time in the crankcase is not a major factor in when to change the oil generally, miles is the key.

Mobil 1 10w40 4T. Holds grade or dang close to it in my modded ZRX1200 with 5x the torque going thru the gears and over 4x more hp to the rear wheel on the top end, for 5000 mile OCI's (Kawasaki recommended OCI). I change at the end of the riding season which is usually 5000 miles, stays in the engine over the winter for whatever riding I do, then is the oil through the next season. It's been a go-to oil for many on this forum.

Don't get me wrong, I run different oils just because I am curious how they perform in analysis, however M1 4T has been great for 3 of the last 5 oil changes. 82,000 miles and counting on the bike.

 

[Rally2045]

I believe the OCI for the Versys 300 is 7600 miles, why so soon? Since it began to shear so quickly, good that you did the analysis to see that trend with this oil. In any case, time in the crankcase is not a major factor in when to change the oil generally, miles is the key.

Mobil 1 10w40 4T. Holds grade or dang close to it in my modded ZRX1200 with 5x the torque going thru the gears and over 4x more hp to the rear wheel on the top end, for 5000 mile OCI's (Kawasaki recommended OCI). I change at the end of the riding season which is usually 5000 miles, stays in the engine over the winter for whatever riding I do, then is the oil through the next season. It's been a go-to oil for many on this forum.

Don't get me wrong, I run different oils just because I am curious how they perform in analysis, however M1 4T has been great for 3 of the last 5 oil changes. 82,000 miles and counting on the bike.

So the manual has this vague note next to the oil change interval “service more frequently when operating in severe conditions: dusty, wet, muddy, high speed, frequent stopping/starting”

I run this bike pretty hard, it’s a small engine, running at 12K rpm at times. I drive it on the freeway, and up mountains frequently, and use the 9,000-12,000rpm range a lot. I guess I just was being cautious and also the 2,500mi starting point seemed like a safe bet.

As far as the oil, that M1 4T 10W-40 sounds like a good option. A thicker 10W-40 that is shear resistant. I usually just buy the cheapest oil that is certified for my application and change it more frequently but in this case with the shear I’m not going to do that.

 

[Bonz]

So the manual has this vague note next to the oil change interval “service more frequently when operating in severe conditions: dusty, wet, muddy, high speed, frequent stopping/starting”

I run this bike pretty hard, it’s a small engine, running at 12K rpm at times. I drive it on the freeway, and up mountains frequently, and use the 9,000-12,000rpm range a lot. I guess I just was being cautious and also the 2,500mi starting point seemed like a safe bet.

As far as the oil, that M1 4T 10W-40 sounds like a good option. A thicker 10W-40 that is shear resistant. I usually just buy the cheapest oil that is certified for my application and change it more frequently but in this case with the shear I’m not going to do that.

Thanks for the response. You definitely run it hard, good idea on fresh oil oil, that is never a bad thing. Try M1 for an OCI and see how it does. Is the shear just what you see by the numbers in the report, or were you losing shift quality? A thicker oil of the same grade can be a benefit, however I feel the M1 is just a really good oil from experience regardless of where it starts.

 

[locomaster1969]

How many miles on the scooter?

 

[locomaster1969]

I like your Rotella T6 selection. Your engine is still breaking in so hopefully the CU will come down.

 

[CourierDriver]

So the manual has this vague note next to the oil change interval “service more frequently when operating in severe conditions: dusty, wet, muddy, high speed, frequent stopping/starting”

I run this bike pretty hard, it’s a small engine, running at 12K rpm at times. I drive it on the freeway, and up mountains frequently, and use the 9,000-12,000rpm range a lot. I guess I just was being cautious and also the 2,500mi starting point seemed like a safe bet.

As far as the oil, that M1 4T 10W-40 sounds like a good option. A thicker 10W-40 that is shear resistant. I usually just buy the cheapest oil that is certified for my application and change it more frequently but in this case with the shear I’m not going to do that.

play rough on those engines, u will pay , but I would run synthetic that they say to use, so when u throw a rod or something, you will have used their oil,,,now thats just my idea......................lol

 

[Bonz]

Throw a rod, drain the oil, put new oil (of whatever spec'd oil you think they will test for if it's a concern) in the engine and tell them you were looking for metal in the oil and then filled it back up. You will never throw a rod using any oil that is being talked about here, and if you do, it's not the oil.

 

[thetricky]

Throw a rod for riding a bike within it’s design parameters? He’s not throwing a rod, and if he does, as stated above, it isn’t the oils fault.

 

[The_Sheriff]

play rough on those engines, u will pay , but I would run synthetic that they say to use, so when u throw a rod or something, you will have used their oil,,,now thats just my idea......................lol

..
The engine in the Versys X-300 is a rock solid design that goes back to the mid 80’s, I believe, when it started life as a 250. It is designed to effortlessly run in the upper rpm range between 9k to 12k. It comes alive at those rpm’s and that is where it makes its power. I have had a few of these motors over the years and they are excellent.

To the OP…..Use some Mobil 1 10w40 4T and call it a day.

 

[Bonz]

M1 10w40 4T is the standard for 10w40's as far as I am concerned, and gets nothing but great reviews from others as well.

 

[Panda87]

..
The engine in the Versys X-300 is a rock solid design that goes back to the mid 80’s, I believe, when it started life as a 250. It is designed to effortlessly run in the upper rpm range between 9k to 12k. It comes alive at those rpm’s and that is where it makes its power. I have had a few of these motors over the years and they are excellent.

To the OP…..Use some Mobil 1 10w40 4T and call it a day.

Ran it in my 06 R6 religiously. That engine redlined at 16.5k and spent most of its life around the 10k mark on track days. Mobil 1 4T oil works very well in these applications.