2022 Camry 2.5 fuel dilution/viscosity selection question

Joined
May 14, 2023
Messages
411
Location
Pennsylvania
Good morning, long time reader, first time poster. I’m curious as to whether anyone has any insight regarding the Camry 2.5 A25A (2022 Camry SE 2.5 Awd) engine in regard to fuel dilution. The engine is both direct and port injected.

I also am curious as to everyone’s opinion regarding viscosity selection in relation to vehicle usage, ambient temp, and of course fuel dilution; which is the main point of this thread. I recently purchased the vehicle for my wife. She will likely start it and drive away in the summer, or let it idle for 20 minutes in the winter, in addition to being heavy on the gas between stop signs and lights. This car will see both city and highway usage and I am located in southwestern PA for temperature reference. The vehicle specs 0w16 and I purchased it with 40k miles and Carfax reported 10k OCI at the dealer who may or may not have used a 16 or 20 weight (would assume 0w20 bulk but cannot be sure). I do not want to run a 16 or 20 weight given the vehicle will be operated at higher speeds and under load which meets Toyotas criteria for increased viscosity usage; however, not clearly defined. I spoke with David from HPL to pick his brain and he inquired about this engines fuel dilution as I was leaning toward 0w30 premium plus (don’t really need a 0w in my temp zone but liked the hths of 3 and the fact that it’s not as large of a jump from 0w16 as say a thicker 30 may be) or use the 5w30 no VII. In turn, I’m posting this to gain some input from you guys regarding this question. Oil change intervals would likely be 7500+, circumstance permitting, after the initial 4K run with whatever HPL I choose. I searched for this info prior to posting and only found a few threads and one informative post which had a 0w16 uoa showing minimal fuel dilution for this motor. Thanks for your time!

PS. I run HPL 5w30 pcmo in my Tundra (178k miles) and in the first 300 miles of use it all but eliminated my timing chain tensioner “clacking” that occured about 6 minutes into idling and then subsided once warm.
 
In outside markets the a25a can use 16 to 40 grade oil. The newest Toyota engines can use 8 to 30 grade in the owners manual. Made a post about the new yaris a couple years ago. If it was my engine I'd use any 30 grade oil. That engine isn't gdi prone and it might already have some deposits so I'd use Castrol edge European 5w-30. Very high detergent count makes it a no brainer for 10k intervals imo.
 
I have this 2.5 Dynamic Force Engine in a 2018 Camry, 109,500+ miles. I've always run 0w20 in it, most of the time about 7500 miles per OCI, but as long as 10,000 when I had HPL oil in it. It is run on the highway a good bit, but also in suburban use. I've run it several 800+ mile trips at 80+ mph, and the car loses no discernable volume of oil as detected on the dipstick. Mine is on original spark plugs, and gets high 30's to low 40's in mpg. I think you are over-thinking the lubrication needs of this engine family...but, I've only had ONE of these engines.
 
I will never understand idling for 20min. Start the car, keep HVAC on cold, move, in 2/3 miles some heat will be available and fuel dilution will be less of an issue.
How bad fuel dilution will be, besides idling, depends on how often vehicle is "exercised." Meaning, how often it sees hwy and for how long.
My wife uses her Tiguan (Turbo, DI) for short trips. But, whenever we don't need Atlas space to go 100-200mls trips to visit someone etc, we use her car, simply to see some hwy speeds for prolonged period of time.
That being said, yes HPL would work, or any Euro XW30 oil that you can pick up in Wal Mart.
 
I will never understand idling for 20min. Start the car, keep HVAC on cold, move, in 2/3 miles some heat will be available and fuel dilution will be less of an issue.
How bad fuel dilution will be, besides idling, depends on how often vehicle is "exercised." Meaning, how often it sees hwy and for how long.
My wife uses her Tiguan (Turbo, DI) for short trips. But, whenever we don't need Atlas space to go 100-200mls trips to visit someone etc, we use her car, simply to see some hwy speeds for prolonged period of time.
That being said, yes HPL would work, or any Euro XW30 oil that you can pick up in Wal Mart.
Yeah, 20 mins is ridiculous
 
I will never understand idling for 20min. Start the car, keep HVAC on cold, move, in 2/3 miles some heat will be available and fuel dilution will be less of an issue.
How bad fuel dilution will be, besides idling, depends on how often vehicle is "exercised." Meaning, how often it sees hwy and for how long.
My wife uses her Tiguan (Turbo, DI) for short trips. But, whenever we don't need Atlas space to go 100-200mls trips to visit someone etc, we use her car, simply to see some hwy speeds for prolonged period of time.
That being said, yes HPL would work, or any Euro XW30 oil that you can pick up in Wal Mart.
I have a 21 Camry with the same engine. With the electric water pump it builds heat in the engine very quickly, even on the coldest days the coolant temp is over 100 degrees F within a couple minutes. I monitor everything with the torque app and the best thing to do with this engine is to throw it in gear after the initial high idle after startup to light off the cat and drive it. This engine wont make it past 135-140 degrees no matter how long you idle it when it's 20 degrees or cooler. Even driving 60 mph with the heat on it will take 15+ miles before the engine makes it over 190 degrees just because the heater pulls more heat than the engine can produce. The engine coolant temp will hover in the 160-170 range until the cabin is warmed up and the heat demand is taken down a fair bit.

Interestingly this engine also has an oil temp sensor that I can monitor with torque and it takes about 15-20 miles at 60 mph to make it over the 140-150 degree mark
 
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I have a 21 Camry with the same engine. With the electric water pump it builds heat in the engine very quickly, even on the coldest days the coolant temp is over 100 degrees F within a couple minutes. I monitor everything with the torque app and the best thing to do with this engine is to throw it in gear after the initial high idle after startup to light off the cat and drive it. This engine wont make it past 135-140 degrees no matter how long you idle it when it's 20 degrees or cooler. Even driving 60 mph with the heat on it will take 15+ miles before the engine makes it over 190 degrees just because the heater pulls more heat than the engine can produce. The engine coolant temp will hover in the 160-170 range until the cabin is warmed up and the heat demand is taken down a fair bit.

Interestingly this engine also has an oil temp sensor that I can monitor with torque and it takes about 15-20 miles at 60 mph to make it over the 140-150 degree mark
Toyota's are not champion in building heat. My 2015 Sienna was horrible. I never had a car that needed so much time to build up heat.
What i did is, that regardless that car is garaged, in insulated garage, I installed block heater. $75, Toyota dealership charged $100 to install it (I did not want to do it in case something goes wrong, it is their responsibility). That helped A LOT (still not as good as VW or BMW I have, without block heater, but it was a dramatic improvement).
in few months, block heater would actually pay off itself instead of idling 20min. Also, I actually gained at least 1 mpg in the city as oil would warm up much faster.

As for the oil sensor, I am not sure if it is a sensor or an algorithm. I could monitor on that Sienna too, but it did not have sensor as far as I know.
 
Thanks everyone for taking the time to reply, I genuinely appreciate it. The 20 minute idling was a slight exaggeration, made in jest, to better portray her vehicle habits. It’s prob more like 10-15 but nonetheless excessive. 😆
 
I will never understand idling for 20min. Start the car, keep HVAC on cold, move, in 2/3 miles some heat will be available and fuel dilution will be less of an issue.
How bad fuel dilution will be, besides idling, depends on how often vehicle is "exercised." Meaning, how often it sees hwy and for how long.
My wife uses her Tiguan (Turbo, DI) for short trips. But, whenever we don't need Atlas space to go 100-200mls trips to visit someone etc, we use her car, simply to see some hwy speeds for prolonged period of time.
That being said, yes HPL would work, or any Euro XW30 oil that you can pick up in Wal Mart.
I can tell you why I do it. I'm not driving anywhere without heat. It's blowing on me when I leave or it idles longer.
 
Start the car, keep HVAC on cold, move, in 2/3 miles some heat will be available and fuel dilution will be less of an issue.
Does having HVAC on help get the car up to operating temp? Or are you just saying it's an indicator of when the car is at operating temp?
 
Does having HVAC on help get the car up to operating temp?
Keeping it at cold will prevent the secondary radiator from additionally cooling off the coolant. Same reason why in case your engine is overheating, one puts heat at max and ventilation at max. When I track BMW my heat is at max and ventilation at max.
I move as soon as I put my seatbelt on, turn on the radio, etc. What I do is make sure it is on cold, and ventilation maybe on 1 if windows are fogging.
 
There are many of these Toyotas with the A25A accruing high mileage on 0W-16. That platform came out in 2018. I haven't read much about any fuel dilution issues with this engine.

I recently purchased a 2024 gasoline RAV4 with the same A25A engine as the Camry that also recommends 0W-16. I'm a little hesitant to use the 0W-16 even though people are getting good MPG and high odometer mileage with it. Maybe I'm just resistant to change?

When I got my Honda CR-V in 2010, it recommended 0W-20 and I was ok with that since I came from a 2001 Honda Civic using 5W-20. I used the 0W-20 in the CR-V for 14 years (7500mi OCI) and it's now at 145K miles and still going strong. Also had a 2019 4Runner 4.0 V6 and used 0W-20 in that for 75K miles (5K OCI) even towing a small camper without any issues.

I'm currently running 0W-20 in the RAV4 and plan to continue in the future. This way I can stock just one oil type for the two cars.
 
Good morning, long time reader, first time poster. I’m curious as to whether anyone has any insight regarding the Camry 2.5 A25A (2022 Camry SE 2.5 Awd) engine in regard to fuel dilution. The engine is both direct and port injected.

I also am curious as to everyone’s opinion regarding viscosity selection in relation to vehicle usage, ambient temp, and of course fuel dilution; which is the main point of this thread. I recently purchased the vehicle for my wife. She will likely start it and drive away in the summer, or let it idle for 20 minutes in the winter, in addition to being heavy on the gas between stop signs and lights. This car will see both city and highway usage and I am located in southwestern PA for temperature reference. The vehicle specs 0w16 and I purchased it with 40k miles and Carfax reported 10k OCI at the dealer who may or may not have used a 16 or 20 weight (would assume 0w20 bulk but cannot be sure). I do not want to run a 16 or 20 weight given the vehicle will be operated at higher speeds and under load which meets Toyotas criteria for increased viscosity usage; however, not clearly defined. I spoke with David from HPL to pick his brain and he inquired about this engines fuel dilution as I was leaning toward 0w30 premium plus (don’t really need a 0w in my temp zone but liked the hths of 3 and the fact that it’s not as large of a jump from 0w16 as say a thicker 30 may be) or use the 5w30 no VII. In turn, I’m posting this to gain some input from you guys regarding this question. Oil change intervals would likely be 7500+, circumstance permitting, after the initial 4K run with whatever HPL I choose. I searched for this info prior to posting and only found a few threads and one informative post which had a 0w16 uoa showing minimal fuel dilution for this motor. Thanks for your time!

PS. I run HPL 5w30 pcmo in my Tundra (178k miles) and in the first 300 miles of use it all but eliminated my timing chain tensioner “clacking” that occured about 6 minutes into idling and then subsided once warm.
Kirkland 5w30
That's all it needs.
Save the dough and go out for dinner
 
When I see someone sitting in a parking lot in an SUV or Truck idling for literally hours as they wait on someone in the office building, I think the same thing: gas is not yet too expensive...
Or I am picking up the kids in daycare, and they leave the car idling while they get a kid. If the car loses all the interior heat in 10-15min, change the car.
 
F

Fuel should be more expensive because you don't agree with my choices....... I could spin that 1000 ways with your choices and you'd argue endlessly about why you are right and I am wrong. Go ahead and get the last word, you always do.
You have a choice. No doubt. Higher demand, higher prices. Add to that number of people who do same and becomes obvious why stop/start system is ridiculous. If something needs to be regulated is my neighbor idling Explorer every morning for half an hour, but never fails to complain about gas prices.
 
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