2019 Yaris (Mazda 2) long crank before start

[sw99]

High milage 2019 Yaris that is manufactured by Mazda. Iv'e been trying to chase this down for some time now with no luck. Current mileage is 197k. Car has an intermittent long crank before it will start. Here is a list of what I have tried:

*COP's checked with multimeter
*Spark plugs have been replaced with Denso iridium
*MAF cleaned
*Fuel pump replaced
*New battery
*Key FOB batteries replaced
*Checked all engine and fuel related fuses and relay's

Any idea's on what to check next?

 

[factorytuned2012]

direct injection? if so has the high pressure fuel pump been checked.

 

[kschachn]

Not saying this is the issue with your Yaris, but when that happened to my old Accord it was the fuel pressure regulator. It would somehow bleed down over time and would result in a long crank. If you turned the key to "ON" once or twice prior to starting it would start right up. I replaced the pressure regulator and all is back to normal now.

 

[Jetronic]

Not saying this is the issue with your Yaris, but when that happened to my old Accord it was the fuel pressure regulator. It would somehow bleed down over time and would result in a long crank. If you turned the key to "ON" once or twice prior to starting it would start right up. I replaced the pressure regulator and all is back to normal now.

Wouldn't that be part of the fuel pump assembly in a 2019 car? Ever since there's no more return fuel lines.

 

[D60]

Yeah if you prime the pump, say, three times does it fire right off immediately?

Some vehicles won't allow rapid successive primes ‐‐ I had a '14 Rogue do this -- so you'll need to be able to hear the pump. It seemed after 20 or 30 seconds I could prime again but I don't know if there's actually a timer or it saw FRP was acceptable, or what the requirements are. I think I also had an '11 Forester not prime in rapid succession, but in that case the pump was so quiet it was difficult to be certain

 

[Kira]

Treat your fuel with a PEA cleaner (Techron or other) before some local driving.
While not a concrete suggestion, it can't hurt.
The intermittency is the puzzler.

 

[D60]

Wouldn't that be part of the fuel pump assembly in a 2019 car? Ever since there's no more return fuel lines.

That's what I thought and I ASSumed why the fuel pump was replaced. Still, he could have an injector leaking down (which wouldn't be the fault of the FPR).

Would be ideal to get a true FP gauge on it and see exactly what pressure is doing overnight and during these episodes.

I suppose he could also have a sensor problem like a MAF or ECT causing a hard start when cold, but live data should probably clue one in on that. Indeed, looking at this first would be easier than finding a way to plumb in a gauge -- unless we're lucky enough to have a Schraeder valve -- seems unlikely?

 

[sw99]

direct injection? if so has the high pressure fuel pump been checked.

Looks like a possible culprit. Symptoms for this sound pretty spot on for what I'm experiencing. Looks like a fairly easy job, since it's right on top of the engine.

 

[kschachn]

Wouldn't that be part of the fuel pump assembly in a 2019 car? Ever since there's no more return fuel lines.

Yeah it might be. The Accord still has return lines.

 

[sw99]

That's what I thought and I ASSumed why the fuel pump was replaced. Still, he could have an injector leaking down (which wouldn't be the fault of the FPR).

Would be ideal to get a true FP gauge on it and see exactly what pressure is doing overnight and during these episodes.

I suppose he could also have a sensor problem like a MAF or ECT causing a hard start when cold, but live data should probably clue one in on that. Indeed, looking at this first would be easier than finding a way to plumb in a gauge -- unless we're lucky enough to have a Schraeder valve -- seems unlikely?

That was another possible thing I was thinking, a leaking fuel injector.

 

[sw99]

Treat your fuel with a PEA cleaner (Techron or other) before some local driving.
While not a concrete suggestion, it can't hurt.
The intermittency is the puzzler.

I've run the redline complete fuel system treatment and a couple cans of B12 Chemtool on a few different tanks of fuel. I believe this should have cleaned it up if something was dirty in there.

 

[Kira]

Different time/different car...Mrs. Kira's Saab had intermittent hard starting.

It turned out to be a bad Crankshaft Positioning Sensor. It had a magnet in it which weakened.
I say that because the old one would barely hold its own weight while against a steel garbage can while the replacement would swing hard to attach to the can (a thoroughly scientific test, to be sure).

Now that I'm thinking about it, there was a code which popped up under hard acceleration, so I don't know if this helps.

 

[sw99]

Different time/different car...Mrs. Kira's Saab had intermittent hard starting.

It turned out to be a bad Crankshaft Positioning Sensor. It had a magnet in it which weakened.
I say that because the old one would barely hold its own weight while against a steel garbage can while the replacement would swing hard to attach to the can (a thoroughly scientific test, to be sure).

Now that I'm thinking about it, there was a code which popped up under hard acceleration, so I don't know if this helps.

That one of the thing I was looking into also. I purchased a HPFP to try first. If that doesn't do it, I'll pick up a CPS next. Thanks.

 

[sw99]

Well the new HPFP did not solve the problem. Regardless, at almost 200k, it was probably a good time to install a new one anyway. I picked up a Crank Position Sensor and put that in yesterday. Fingers crossed, but it's looking promising so far.