Copper is the main point of contention, correct?
Not seeing a significant difference in fuel dilution between both reports - both are under 1%.
2019 RAM 1500 Sport 5.7L - HPL "overkill" 0W-20 10,876km
- Thread starter OVERKILL
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Not seeing a significant difference in fuel dilution between both reports - both are under 1%.
Yes, and it could be additional wear. It's not in triple digits, so nothing to worry about. It will be interesting to see if it goes back down. My opinion is that if copper decreases then the oil is just cleaning out the copper oxide, but if it doesn't, then it's wear.
Calling that "extreme fuel dilution" was exaggerated. Though I don't like any amount of fuel dilution, when I wrote that comment, I thought I saw 3%. Yes, I got yellow egg on my face now. To put it in context, I was referring to the fact that Mobil 1 health well with it, so why the need for an expensive motor oil? In fact, Mobil 1 did a good job overall, so why not stick with it? The only explanation I could come up with was "personal preference", or "ego". We all tend to make emotional purchasing decisions dictated by what we associate with our personality, self worth, etc. Just like some people like to rock the latest iPhone, or wear only a particular brand of sneakers. I'm sure you get the point. No offense meant @OVERKILL.
When things are going well, there are wear numbers that trend together...copper, aluminium and chromium, if I remember correctly.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
A quick search of the forum on the level of engagement @High Performance Lubricants has provided on here, and the fact they were willing to blend a custom lubricant (A3/B4 A40, LL01 MB229.5 additive package in a 0W-20) based on a question I made, answers that. Being less presumptive about a poster's intentions and motivations would serve you well. Instead of trying to come up with an explanation on your own, it would have been far more productive for you to simply ask.
I want to clarify that my previous statement was a broad generalization and not directly aimed at @High Performance Lubricants. It's evident that they are a reputable industrial lubricant manufacturer, standing leagues apart from the typical boutique blenders that rely heavily on marketing gimmicks and MLM tactics. In fact, from my observations, @High Performance Lubricants doesn't even cater to the average consumer in their marketing strategies.
I recognize the oversight in my earlier comment and its sweeping nature. Let's set the record straight and move forward, shall we?
Can you please list these boutique blenders and clarify what your comment is based on?
My comment was a broad observation based on various discussions, both online and offline, about boutique oil blenders in the market. It wasn't aimed at any specific brand but rather a general sentiment about how some brands position themselves in the market.
To be clear, I wasn't implying that all boutique blenders rely on marketing gimmicks. However, there are certainly some that do, just as there are in any industry. My intention was to differentiate between those and reputable manufacturers like @High Performance Lubricants.
I'd also emphasize that my comments are based on personal observations and experiences, and I always encourage everyone to do their own research and form their own opinions.
I think it’s worth a try so what it throws a CEL unless it cuts out power. If others are using 0/40. Remember it’s the 1st number that matters to an engine and pump ability to flow once at operating temp, it wouldn’t notice a difference between a 40 or 50
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
If you think it's worth a try, by all means do so in your own vehicle. I'm quite comfortable with the performance of the 0W-20 in this application and have no intention to change it up.
Don’t own one. Both of my vehicles recommend 0/20. I use M1 0/40
'Interesting that the "Thick oil" people are not all over this. ...Stating that the UOA is useless to be able to say the wear is normal and that your engine is really falling apart because the MOFT is not sufficient. And demanding at least a picture of your oil filter pleats showing chunks of metal, then presenting all sorts of graphs showing that a 20 grade oil is not usable...and so on.
Have these people come around to see that lower viscosity oils work well in many engines with no fear of catastrophic diseases?
Ali
Have these people come around to see that lower viscosity oils work well in many engines with no fear of catastrophic diseases?
Ali
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
A couple of points:
- This engine spec's an xW-20 grade, so I'm not deviating from the OE spec
- The ending viscosity of 9.5cSt puts this oil into xW-30 territory
Pictures of the filters off this vehicle have been posted in the filter section.
So a UOA is only useful if you don't deviate from factory spec?
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Maybe re-read the thread a few times until it's clear?
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Yeah, my takeaway is that the HEMI and my wife's driving aren't an "easy on oil" combination.Tbn is surprisingly low for an HPL oil. Oxidation and Nitration are up too. Virgin oxidation for this oil is around 23 or so. So quite a jump to 42. But it's only one run.
Same here as well. The last 15k mile sample of 10W-20 in my wife's Mustang thickened to 10.0 cSt from 8.8 cSt. HPL's oils are very shear stable so they don't lose viscosity. The oxidative thickening, which happens with all oils, is unavoidable.
If your UOA KV100 is the same as your VOA KV100, with no fuel or water dilution, your oil sheared 0.5-1.0 cSt and oxidative thickening brought it back to the original viscosity.
If your UOA KV100 is the same as your VOA KV100, with no fuel or water dilution, your oil sheared 0.5-1.0 cSt and oxidative thickening brought it back to the original viscosity.
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
20 wound up a 30 bcs of oxidation - in an oil known to run long range - Well, seems a good 30 that would end up a 20 would also protect the engine …
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