2018 VW tuned Golf Sportwagen track use 69.5K/3.9K OCI Liquimoly Molygen 5W40 + MoS2

[Zee09]

Yep BG MOA is what my dealer hawks, and some other stuff but I think it's all the same brand. MOA is the one they push though.

If you were the type to worry about this buy a can of whatever from your dealer and simply use your own preferred additive instead.
If it came up they sold it to you.
I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[KCJeep]

I used to dump all sorts of interesting stuff in my Jeep without worry. It was fun. In the newer engines I've owned lately I don't see the point.

 

[Deleted member 89374]

No - heard folks here talk about it a lot. What would it do for me?

Probably nothing. I ran it for around 10K miles in three different vehicles and have nothing positive or negative to say about it. I was excited about it in the beginning, so I ran it for longer to wait for the placebo to wear off. It's one of those products that's designed not to do any harm, but it won't do good either. It's mainly a plant-based ester that has detergents, antioxidants, and anti-wear additives in it. It has no VI and way higher density than motor oil so it won't alter the viscosity of your engine oil. Sadly, it will slightly displace your existing additive ratios, depending how much of it you use.

On the other hand, I was very impressed with Liqui Moly Pro-Line Engine Flush. It did an awesome job cleaning my engines, they are spotless now. I did a second fill and drain after using it in each engine. The Liqui Moly products actually work, stick with them. The Lubegard Engine Flush doesn't really clean anything, just thins out your existing oil. As long as their products don't cause any harm, and the placebo effect works, Lubegard will stay in business.

Under the valve cover of my 2016 RAM 1500 at 40K miles:

 

[TiGeo]

Probably nothing. I ran it for around 10K miles in three different vehicles and have nothing positive or negative to say about it. I was excited about it in the beginning, so I ran it for longer to wait for the placebo to wear off. It's one of those products that's designed not to do any harm, but it won't do good either. It's mainly a plant-based ester that has detergents, antioxidants, and anti-wear additives in it. It has no VI and way higher density than motor oil so it won't alter the viscosity of your engine oil. Sadly, it will slightly displace your existing additive ratios, depending how much of it you use.

On the other hand, I was very impressed with Liqui Moly Pro-Line Engine Flush. It did an awesome job cleaning my engines, they are spotless now. I did a second fill and drain after using it in each engine. The Liqui Moly products actually work, stick with them. The Lubegard Engine Flush doesn't really clean anything, just thins out your existing oil. As long as their products don't cause any harm, and the placebo effect works, Lubegard will stay in business.

Under the valve cover of my 2016 RAM 1500 at 40K miles:

View attachment 80114

Did you have before and after shots with the LM Engine Flush?

 

[Deleted member 89374]

Did you have before and after shots with the LM Engine Flush?

Nope. I took off the valve cover to replace a leaking seal.

 

[TiGeo]

Nope. I took off the valve cover to replace a leaking seal.

So they may have looked that way without the engine flush.

 

[Deleted member 89374]

So they may have looked that way without the engine flush.

I meant the valve cover gasket, not seal. I always maintained this engine well, so it's always been clean. I did notice LM Pro Line Engine Flush clean out some varnish deposits that formed on my 2018 Sant Fe Sport on the inside of the valve cover. That 2.4L is a soot factory and will destroy the oil. I suspect that the varnish was there from the days I was running ILSAC oils in that engine. I also tried LM Pro Line fuel system cleaner and noticed smoother idle after running it in the same 2.4L GDI engine. Liqui Moly products seem to work reasonably well. I have my reservations when it comes to LM MoS2, but that's a different story.

[Edit]

I also replaced the exhaust manifold on the same side and all nine bolts because one bolt was broken and caused it to tick. I believe that the exhaust manifold bolts break because they are not evenly torqued at the factory, thus allowing the manifold to warp, and after so many heat cycles they start snapping off the bolts. I went very slow and in 3 ft-lb increments until I got to a little bit over 18 ft-lb on each bolt, following the torque pattern every time. I had no issues so far and the engine is quiet and smooth.