2018 Honda Civic 1.5l Turbo: octane? Oil?

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Without specifically quoting anyone’s responses:

* I agree - so far the mileage I’ve gotten in my first tank of gas has been far better than I hoped... 404 miles and fill up was 9.4xx gallons

* I’ve been driving almost exclusively in Econ mode and trying to avoid engaging turbo

* as for maintenance, I’ll simply say that I care about cars and enjoying making them run as well as possible. In 3 years I can either buy or give back the car. If I keep it, I’d like to ensure a long life. If I give it back, I’d like the next owner to get as much life out of it as possible. I’m under no obligation to do any more than what the mm indicates but knowing this car could have “faults”, I can use the knowledge from BITOG and the other forums to make the best decision in caring for the car

* an earlier posting indicated this car has 10.3:1 compression. I don’t have a clue if that’s high compression or not and, per my signature, you can see I’m not buying high end cars and have absolutely no idea about turbos, compression, digital tuning.... or whatever it’s called. Not my thing. That said, I’m not discounting the need for this car to make use of a higher octane fuel and it’s not necessarily a question of money... more a question of Why...? Can anyone tell me why a higher octane fuel would help with fuel dilution?

* with regard to the turbo, I understand that a heftier oil should be used. Combined with fuel dilution, all the more so. Is using my jug of 0W-40 a bad thing? Again, I can easily run out and grab a jug of 5W-30 but I’m just wondering if the 0W-40 is tooooo thick? And what about the moly? Several threads indicated extra moly should be run for thousands of miles during “break in”.

Any thoughts?

Thank you
 
In my opinion there’s no reason to that thick. If you’re looking for something a bit thicker you could pick up any 5w30 D1G2 oil - valvoline or PP. they are on a lighter side and should do just fine. Despite fuel dilution wear numbers on these engines are really low as long as you don’t over run the oil. My 2c
 
Originally Posted By: parshisa
In my opinion there’s no reason to that thick. If you’re looking for something a bit thicker you could pick up any 5w30 D1G2 oil - valvoline or PP. they are on a lighter side and should do just fine. Despite fuel dilution wear numbers on these engines are really low as long as you don’t over run the oil. My 2c


Ok, 5W-30 it is

How many miles on your civic? You posted a uOA right?
 
I’m at 19K right with 5k on 5w30 - no difference performance and mpg wise. I’ve done 3UOA’s on the car with the first one being FF and two other 0w20 oils. Last report showed very little dilution and good viscosity. For the past 7K i’ve filling up with Costco 93. Just because i have some 0w20 in the stash i’ll use it for next 2fills. Hope this helps
 
No worries. One more thing: if you wish to greatly improve gear shifting experience- change transmisson fluid with Amsoil MTF. I promise, that’ll be the best 25$ you spend on car maintenance.
 
Originally Posted By: parshisa
I’m at 19K right with 5k on 5w30 - no difference performance and mpg wise. I’ve done 3UOA’s on the car with the first one being FF and two other 0w20 oils. Last report showed very little dilution and good viscosity. For the past 7K i’ve filling up with Costco 93. Just because i have some 0w20 in the stash i’ll use it for next 2fills. Hope this helps


Are you uoa's posted here?
 
10.3 isnt high for a modern N/A engine.. its high for a turbo engine.

Historically you would make a turbo(or supercharged) engine lower compression because you are increasing the air in the cylinder with forced induction.
 
You may want to search the 87 octane thing on this site because it's been discussed at length. Here is the abridged version:
The computer pulls the timing when knock is sensed and dumps more fuel in cylinder. With 87 octane this happens under more instances experienced during normal driving. With higher octane there is more resistance to knock so timing gets pulled less often and less instances where fuel gets dumped in cylinders. A turbo raises the compression. Drive the car normally, try to avoid boost when cold but that's about it.
I welcome all correction(s) as I connected dots far apart.
 
I like maintaining vehicles as much as the next guy on here but if it was my lease payment it would get Super Tech 0w20 and a Super Tech filter changed at the MM. Then use your savings to do UOA and share with the group to prove/disprove that the engine ends anything other than a basic oil and filter despite being a turbo DI that's known to dilute.
 
Honda is adamant about NOT changing the factory fill early. Does it not have a manual for the correct oil viscosity? Surely it's on the oil filler cap........
 
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