True, but my bicycle chain stretches no matter how I maintain it. It's part of normal wear. I suspect that these extra long timing chains used on vehicles are all going to stretch just the same.
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2017 Civic 2.0 NA, Timing Chain Fail @ 70K Miles
- Thread starter dogememe
- Start date
True, but my bicycle chain stretches no matter how I maintain it. It's part of normal wear. I suspect that these extra long timing chains used on vehicles are all going to stretch just the same.
I used the term "stretch" also, but after all the responses to this thread, I believe the BITOG Politically Correct term may be "enlongated" due to wear at the intersection between the links and pins. Standing by for correction.
■ OFF TOPIC (sorta) ~ but interesting nonetheless:
I'm a retired ASE-certified "Master Mechanic" (zippety doo dah) and I've changed maybe 100 t/chains during my career. BUT..... the easiest one I've ever done was on an old Mercedes "450SL" that belonged to a long-time friend. I don't remember the exact year, but it had a SOHC V-8, with a MASTER LINK. in the t/chain! <eek>
As a result, I was able to replace it in about an hour, by removing the R/H v/cover, attaching the new chain onto the old one, then slowly rotating the crank by hand, while a helper and I held tension on both chains (new & old) as the new one was being drawn in. Then, when the "ends" reappeared, I installed the master link and reinstalled the v/cov..... VOILA!!
Obviously, such a "repair" didn't address any issues that might've existed with worn tensioner(s) &/or Nylon/Teflon-surfaced "guides" - but it worked nonetheless!
wemay
Site Donor 2023
I thought that revision only applied to the hybrid 2.0, with the non-hybrid, non-turbo 2.0 is still being port injected.
The timing chain was even simpler if the cam was not overhead. Who doesn't love 16 pushrods for a V8 engine?■ OFF TOPIC (sorta) ~ but interesting nonetheless:
I'm a retired ASE-certified "Master Mechanic" (zippety doo dah) and I've changed maybe 100 t/chains during my career. BUT..... the easiest one I've ever done was on an old Mercedes "450SL" that belonged to a long-time friend. I don't remember the exact year, but it had a SOHC V-8, with a MASTER LINK. in the t/chain! <eek>
As a result, I was able to replace it in about an hour, by removing the R/H v/cover, attaching the new chain onto the old one, then slowly rotating the crank by hand, while a helper and I held tension on both chains (new & old) as the new one was being drawn in. Then, when the "ends" reappeared, I installed the master link and reinstalled the v/cov..... VOILA!!
Obviously, such a "repair" didn't address any issues that might've existed with worn tensioner(s) &/or Nylon/Teflon-surfaced "guides" - but it worked nonetheless!
Sadly, no.
The NA version Civic constituted something like 70% of sales in years past. Not sure if that balance has shifted with the new hybrid, though. Anyway, it seems odd that Honda would bother to make the switch to a brand new engine for such a small gain.
Your bike chain in a flow filtered oil bath would probably go 20-30 times further before wearing out. Of course that's not practical on a bike. But in a car engine, a properly sized, well made timing chain, in the optimal grade clean oil(probably 5W30) should go for 5000+ hrs. This car got dirty sheared out 0W20, so it went maybe 2000hrs.
So there was no tensioner to deal with in this engine, or was it one of those weak hydraulic ones that your buddy was able overcome with shear strength?■ OFF TOPIC (sorta) ~ but interesting nonetheless:
I'm a retired ASE-certified "Master Mechanic" (zippety doo dah) and I've changed maybe 100 t/chains during my career. BUT..... the easiest one I've ever done was on an old Mercedes "450SL" that belonged to a long-time friend. I don't remember the exact year, but it had a SOHC V-8, with a MASTER LINK. in the t/chain! <eek>
As a result, I was able to replace it in about an hour, by removing the R/H v/cover, attaching the new chain onto the old one, then slowly rotating the crank by hand, while a helper and I held tension on both chains (new & old) as the new one was being drawn in. Then, when the "ends" reappeared, I installed the master link and reinstalled the v/cov..... VOILA!!
Obviously, such a "repair" didn't address any issues that might've existed with worn tensioner(s) &/or Nylon/Teflon-surfaced "guides" - but it worked nonetheless!
You forgot about the plastic teeth on the cam gear that would come off and get jammed into the oil pump. Then candy cane the oil pump driveshaft. Burned the main and rod bearings up.
