2017 Cadillac ATS 2.0T AWD - PCV modifications?

[webfors]

Originally Posted By: StevieC
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Save your money.

Use something like Amsoil power foam through the throttle body regularly but just before an oil change or suck up a proper cleaner through a vacuum line regularly but at oil change time and use a properly rated high quality synthetic oil in between.




If you have done some homework on this matter before posting, you will find that deposits on DI engines are a completely different animal than traditional deposits. These deposits are extremely heavy and are not easily removed without Walnut Blasting or manual scraping. Chemical cleaners injected thru the intake tract will “barely make a dent” on the deposits if there is a decent amount accumulated.


We have Hyundai/Kia Direct injection engines in the family. This is why we use Amsoil power foam and they aren't having any issues. And yes they are the "Early" ones that had all sorts of problems. Like the Veloster.


Link to the product and ideally instructions on the exact process? Any warranty concerns with this product?

 

[StevieC]

I modified my post above with an example. Also there are other products you can suck up through a vacuum line that work just as well.

Also this video right from CRC: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=649wH80FXic

 

[WobblyElvis]

My son's 2008 Cadillac with 180,000 miles has not one problem due to direct injection. I think it's a non issue.

 

[webfors]

Originally Posted By: StevieC
I modified my post above with an example. Also there are other products you can suck up through a vacuum line that work just as well.

Also this video right from CRC: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=649wH80FXic



Thank you StevieC!

Since this car most likely had a diet of 87 octane as their test drive unit, I should probably do that sooner rather than later.

Any evidence that this stuff actually works?

Considering GMBoy has 147k miles on his 3.6 without any issue I suspect it does.

 

[StevieC]

I only have experience with the Amsoil Powerfoam keeping the intake valves clean in affected D.I. engines from Hyundai/Kia. I do however use other CRC products and they are excellent so I would imagine their cleaner would work fine.

I don't have experience on your particular engine and the intake build-up but I would think that the CRC or Amsoil Powerfoam would be a good regiment to do every so often at oil change time just as a precaution.

Others can comment on this particular engine and the need. GMBoy is probably a good person to ask.

 

[GMBoy]

Originally Posted By: webfors
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Save your money.

Use something like Amsoil power foam through the throttle body regularly but just before an oil change or suck up a proper cleaner through a vacuum line regularly but at oil change time and use a properly rated high quality synthetic oil in between.




This. My CTS is direct injected. All I do is at each oil change spray a full can of intake cleaner thru with motor running. It washes past the valves and removes atleast something because gray water will come out the pipes when doing this. I'm at 147k miles and still idles smooth as glass. I think if I had a carbon problem I would feel a rough idle and perhaps some missing. Runs great just like new.


Which intake cleaner? GM specific product?


I've used everything from GM Cleaner, Carb cleaners, intake cleaners - what ever on sale in the biggest bottle. Lately, I have settled on the CRC intake cleaner since it is purposely made for this. Gumout has a special solution too now that I used before.

 

[GMBoy]

Originally Posted By: webfors
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Save your money.

Use something like Amsoil power foam through the throttle body regularly but just before an oil change or suck up a proper cleaner through a vacuum line regularly but at oil change time and use a properly rated high quality synthetic oil in between.




This. My CTS is direct injected. All I do is at each oil change spray a full can of intake cleaner thru with motor running. It washes past the valves and removes atleast something because gray water will come out the pipes when doing this. I'm at 147k miles and still idles smooth as glass. I think if I had a carbon problem I would feel a rough idle and perhaps some missing. Runs great just like new.


Another question, what oil and filter do you use?



From new to about 40k miles I used Mobil 1 5w/30. From 40k to 120k I used Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w/30 and now I am on to Mobil 1 High Mileage. I have used AC Delco, Wix and the occasional STP and Fram filters. My oil change intervals are between 5-7k miles mostly because the timing chain issue on the 3.6 really requires good clean oil. So with you having the 2.0T - you already don't have to worry about timing chains and get plenty of power with better fuel economy!

 

[GMBoy]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Save your money.

Use something like Amsoil power foam through the throttle body regularly but just before an oil change or suck up a proper cleaner through a vacuum line regularly but at oil change time and use a properly rated high quality synthetic oil in between.




If you have done some homework on this matter before posting, you will find that deposits on DI engines are a completely different animal than traditional deposits. These deposits are extremely heavy and are not easily removed without Walnut Blasting or manual scraping. Chemical cleaners injected thru the intake tract will “barely make a dent” on the deposits if there is a decent amount accumulated.



What you say is true regarding these deposits. I just do my "cleaning" treatments to stay as far ahead of the game as I can. I might not be doing any benefit at all...but then again even if I am only removing 25% of any deposits - that's something. I can, in fact, see gray coming out of my pipes and my idle is always better afterward.

 

[webfors]

How do you apply these treatments?

The dealer put 0w20 in and I'm going to swap that out for the PP 5w30 I have in the basement. I want to perform this cleaning before swapping the oil out.

 

[ls1mike]

Don't bother with the catch can. I can't imagine it will stop enough oil to make a difference.

I run Mobil 1 5W/30 and the stock AC/Delco filter in my 2.0 turbo.

 

[webfors]

Just got back from Canadian Tire and picked up a can of CRC's GDI Intake cleaner.

Now I need to figure out the level of effort to inject this into the throttle body at 2k rpms, with some brief revs. Sounds like a two person job

 

[webfors]

Originally Posted By: ls1mike
Don't bother with the catch can. I can't imagine it will stop enough oil to make a difference.

I run Mobil 1 5W/30 and the stock AC/Delco filter in my 2.0 turbo.


Agreed. I want to keep the warranty. I'll mitigate this issue with good oil and the periodic intake cleaner treatment (every oil change).

And here I thought I could sit back like an old man and let the Cadillac dealer take care of everything LOL. I didn't realize that naivety came with age... I thought it was supposed to be wisdom

 

[StevieC]

Originally Posted By: webfors
Just got back from Canadian Tire and picked up a can of CRC's GDI Intake cleaner.

Now I need to figure out the level of effort to inject this into the throttle body at 2k rpms, with some brief revs. Sounds like a two person job


Take the car for a drive first and make sure not only is the engine up to temperature but so is the oil before reving it to 2K RPM. Also try to spray it directly in the center of the Throttle Body and not off to one side. This will help clean the throttle plate all around and behind the throttle plate all around.

 

[webfors]

Originally Posted By: StevieC
Originally Posted By: webfors
Just got back from Canadian Tire and picked up a can of CRC's GDI Intake cleaner.

Now I need to figure out the level of effort to inject this into the throttle body at 2k rpms, with some brief revs. Sounds like a two person job


Take the car for a drive first and make sure not only is the engine up to temperature but so is the oil before reving it to 2K RPM. Also try to spray it directly in the center of the Throttle Body and not off to one side. This will help clean the throttle plate all around and behind the throttle plate all around.


So the car won't throw a code if I pull the intake tube while it's running? This would essentially disable the MAF upstream since all air would then be pulled directly into the throttle body, bypassing all intake sensors and filters.

 

[StevieC]

It will throw a code but it should clear itself after so many ignition starts when the ECU realizes that the sensor is fine. Takes quite a while though.


You could also buy a can of the Seafoam spray so you have their bendy straw that allows you to have the air duct work in place while you spray. Just spray after the MAF Obviously.

 

[Cujet]

Originally Posted By: webfors
I thought I could sit back and let the Cadillac dealer take care of everything LOL.


My very first thought was to distrust any dealership. I feel badly that I did not articulate that thought clearly enough on the other thread. Time after time, the dealership is responsible for a large segment of the problems.

I am also a HUGE fan of full synthetic oils on turbocharged cars. While a full syn is sometimes rumored to be helpful with intake valve deposits, a qual syn will absolutely prevent ring sticking and other varnish/carbon related problems on pistons. And the turbo itself will have less or no coking.

My friends turbo Audi has a coked turbo. That's what you get from a Car-Max car.

 

[webfors]

Originally Posted By: Cujet
Originally Posted By: webfors
I thought I could sit back and let the Cadillac dealer take care of everything LOL.


My very first thought was to distrust any dealership. I feel badly that I did not articulate that thought clearly enough on the other thread. Time after time, the dealership is responsible for a large segment of the problems.

I am also a HUGE fan of full synthetic oils on turbocharged cars. While a full syn is sometimes rumored to be helpful with intake valve deposits, a qual syn will absolutely prevent ring sticking and other varnish/carbon related problems on pistons. And the turbo itself will have less or no coking.

My friends turbo Audi has a coked turbo. That's what you get from a Car-Max car.


Thank you for the tips. I agree. I have used full syns in so many vehicles that never needed it. Now I have one that does.

I just finished the CRC GDI IVD cleaning. That can lasted a lot longer than I expected it to. My wife got a cramp holding 2k RPMS

I sprayed directly into the turbo (well directly into the 6 inch white plastic housing just before the turbo. It was really neat seeing a turbo in action for the first time in my 45 years!

There was a good oil film on the walls of that white plastic housing. There's also a small depression/sump just before the turbo inside that housing that logic states is designed to pool oil just before the turbo. The cleaner washed that out. There was a ugly brown film that got washed into the turbo. The turbo impellers looked clean prior and definitely post cleaning. That stuff is powerful... what a strong smell and irritation if you get it on the skin.

The engine is soaking for the hour now before I take it for a spin prior to the oil change.

Thanks everyone for the tips. This cleaning procedure each oil change will give me a warm and fuzzy and avoid any mods, and most importantly not void the warranty.

 

[StevieC]

Cool

 

[ls1mike]

Originally Posted By: webfors
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Originally Posted By: webfors
Just got back from Canadian Tire and picked up a can of CRC's GDI Intake cleaner.

Now I need to figure out the level of effort to inject this into the throttle body at 2k rpms, with some brief revs. Sounds like a two person job


Take the car for a drive first and make sure not only is the engine up to temperature but so is the oil before reving it to 2K RPM. Also try to spray it directly in the center of the Throttle Body and not off to one side. This will help clean the throttle plate all around and behind the throttle plate all around.


So the car won't throw a code if I pull the intake tube while it's running? This would essentially disable the MAF upstream since all air would then be pulled directly into the throttle body, bypassing all intake sensors and filters.

It shouldn't the Malibu does not. you should only be affecting the AIT sensor which really doesn't care.

 

[ls1mike]

I don't want to sound like a d-bag...but I think you are over thinking it a bit. I have the same engine in my Malibu. No issues, it young but lay into it once in a while and you will have no problems.