2015 Caravan Transmission Pan bolt Stripped

JC1

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Hi Guys, Decided to change the Tranny fluid on my 2015 Caravan Today. Ran into a few issues. Had to do the job twice. First attempt, After I installed the pan the first time, waited an hour to the RTV to setup and refilled with fluid, there was a slight leak on the pan. I guess I didn't use enough Permatex RTV black on that side. Had to run to the dollar store to get a fresh plastic pan so I could drain the ATF+4 and reuse it. Good thing it's a Dorman pan with the drain plug that I installed. On the second attempt, when reinstalling the pan, again I waited an hour before fulling torquing the bolts. Now, one of the bolts it won't fully tighten. This is not the drain plug, it's one of the small 8 mm bolts. It just keeps spinning without grabbing. I tried to swap it out with another bolt, but I guess that hole is stripped at the bottom. I was planning on leaving the pan empty overnight to fully cure like the instructions say. Anybody have tips to fix this last bolt without me having to remove the pan again.
 
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JC1

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Originally Posted by JustinH
i wouldn't worry about it. When I messed with a rusty RAV4 trans pan, two bolts snapped off when taking them out. No leaks.
Did you use RTV? I installed a lot more now and then I actually applied more this time and shoved the bolt in the hole. I was also thinking of maybe stacking some washers on it.
 

JC1

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Originally Posted by slacktide_bitog
Get an aftermarket pan with a drain plug, so you never have to do this again smile
I did that. Installed a Dorman pan. I will have to change the filter again eventually unless I get rid of the van. I looked on the Chrysler Minivan forum. Looks some some guys used a longer bolt to fix it. I will go to Lowe's tomorrow to see what they have
 
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Originally Posted by JC1
Originally Posted by slacktide_bitog
Get an aftermarket pan with a drain plug, so you never have to do this again smile
I did that. Installed a Dorman pan. I will have to change the filter again eventually unless I get rid of the van. I looked on the Chrysler Minivan forum. Looks some some guys used a longer bolt to fix it. I will go to Lowe's tomorrow to see what they have
oops I missed that, sorry blush
 
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I'm going to have to do this job soon. Is the OEM pan sealed with RTV or a gasket? I would think that after the first change, it's alot easier to put a Dorman pan (with drain bolt) and a gasket instead of RTV? Makes the next job much easier.
 
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Originally Posted by nobb
I'm going to have to do this job soon. Is the OEM pan sealed with RTV or a gasket? I would think that after the first change, it's alot easier to put a Dorman pan (with drain bolt) and a gasket instead of RTV? Makes the next job much easier.
There is no gasket. Chrysler FWD transmissions haven't used a pan gasket in ages, it's always RTV. However, the OP made a mistake. You don't wait to torque bolts while the RTV "cures", you torque them immediately. Depending on the manufacturer and the surface being sealed, most OEM's call for the parts to be assembled AND torqued within 5-15 minutes RTV application. Any more, and you are to remove the RTV and re-apply. This also applies to these transmission pans.
 
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What are you using for a torque wrench? If its anything other than a low lb.in one its no surprise. Those bolts will strip easy as you found out. I just snug them with a palmed 1/4" ratchet. To do a Helicoil you will have to drop the pan again. Personally I would have put a real gasket on it if available, RTV blows.
 

JC1

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Originally Posted by 14Accent
Originally Posted by nobb
I'm going to have to do this job soon. Is the OEM pan sealed with RTV or a gasket? I would think that after the first change, it's alot easier to put a Dorman pan (with drain bolt) and a gasket instead of RTV? Makes the next job much easier.
There is no gasket. Chrysler FWD transmissions haven't used a pan gasket in ages, it's always RTV. However, the OP made a mistake. You don't wait to torque bolts while the RTV "cures", you torque them immediately. Depending on the manufacturer and the surface being sealed, most OEM's call for the parts to be assembled AND torqued within 5-15 minutes RTV application. Any more, and you are to remove the RTV and re-apply. This also applies to these transmission pans.
The package of RTV says to snug it first, wait for 60 mins then torque it down.
Originally Posted by Trav
What are you using for a torque wrench? If its anything other than a low lb.in one its no surprise. Those bolts will strip easy as you found out. I just snug them with a palmed 1/4" ratchet. To do a Helicoil you will have to drop the pan again. Personally I would have put a real gasket on it if available, RTV blows.
I just snugged them down with a 1./4 inch wrench the first time. The RTV wasn't thick enough on the one area, so that's why I needed to redo it. The Second time, I have a cheap HF 3/8 inch torque wrench that I set to 8 lbs. I tried that. If I need a Helicoil, what size should I get? I think there is a gasket available, I'll keep that in mind for the next time, provided I can fix this tomorrow. I might try a larger M8 * 1.25 16 bolt tomorrow first to see if that works. If not, I guess it's Helicoil time! Thanks Everyone for your help.
 
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Buy the gasket and skip the RTV. Torque to pattern and spec without the need for curing time or re-torque. Every FCA mating surface that left the factory with rtv has an aftermarket preformed gasket available. I have ran across too many inept rtv installs to use it unless there isn't an alternative. RTV floating around in your tranny, valve cover,water pump, etc will eventually find its way to the pump or plug off passages. Make sure the pan lip is flat using a sheet of glass. Use the factory pattern and torque spec and any step sequence. RTV applied at the factory is a different animal than RTV applied laying on your back under your car on a piece of cardboard while the vehicle is on stands.
 
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I would guess M6x1.0 if that's the case you can usually get away by just running an M7x1.0 tap in it without drilling and put an M7 bolt in. Ace hardware carries M7 bolts, If its M6 you probably wont need to drop the pan to do an M7 its a smaller tap than an M6 Helicoil. I have done this lots of times and keep M7 bolts in the drawer. The 3/8 torque wrench in lb.ft is not accurate at that setting. M6 bolts usually are around 84 lb.in which is just snug and a hair. Edit: If they are M8 bolts which is more common on pans then a Helicoil is the only realistic option if the longer one doesn't work. You would need a coil the same as the original bolt eg M8 x1.25
 
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6mm is .236, use a 1/4-20 . .014larger You will be hard pressed to find a 7mm bolt, to my knowledge they are only used on French cars
 
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Every transmission filter I've purchased for my 62TE transmission ('07 Pacifica) has had a preformed gasket included. The pan is rather small on these, so I suppose using RTV wouldn't be the end of the world, but a premade gasket makes the job much simpler. There are M6 bolts holding the pan on mine. I would try a bolt a size bigger and see if you can get any amount of bite. Even better if you can tap to a larger size, hopefully it's a bolt that's fairly accessible. There are two or three holding the pan on mine that are buried under the front crossmember, one of those would be a real pain! Should be able to find M7 bolts online no problem.
 
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Trav gave good advice on dealing with the stripped bolt. Another vote here for a gasket, the only time I'd use RTV is if I was in a bind and couldn't source a gasket. That hasn't happened to me yet.
 
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Originally Posted by Mitch
6mm is .236, use a 1/4-20 . .014larger You will be hard pressed to find a 7mm bolt, to my knowledge they are only used on French cars
Yes, they are common on French cars 11mm head vs 10mm for the M6. Ace hardware has them in stock, not a huge selection but enough. Because the M7x1.0 needs an 6mm hole the tap goes right in a stripped M6 without drilling. Home Depot also has them. You can get M7 taps online or Grainger in store. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-M7-1-0-x-20-mm-Zinc-Plated-Hex-Bolt-35888/202209662
 
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QUick and dirty is a 2" C clamp beside the stripped hole. I once used Blue RTV on a water pump. It didn't leak, but i had a glob of it sitting on the tubes of the radiator ever after. I use Permatex #2Aviation Forma-Gasket now. Follow Trav's advice grin2
 

JC1

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Originally Posted by Trav
Originally Posted by Mitch
6mm is .236, use a 1/4-20 . .014larger You will be hard pressed to find a 7mm bolt, to my knowledge they are only used on French cars
Yes, they are common on French cars 11mm head vs 10mm for the M6. Ace hardware has them in stock, not a huge selection but enough. Because the M7x1.0 needs an 6mm hole the tap goes right in a stripped M6 without drilling. Home Depot also has them. You can get M7 taps online or Grainger in store. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-M7-1-0-x-20-mm-Zinc-Plated-Hex-Bolt-35888/202209662
Thanks Guys. I went to HD and they only had M6 & M8. The bolt is M6x1.0. Went to Lowe's and got an M7x1.00. I have a cheap HF tap set. About to try this, wish me luck.
 
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