2014 Tundra 239,915 miles, HPL HDEO 5w30 7883 miles
- Thread starter Sumo91
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I only run OEM filters on everything I own, so this was just a regular toyota filter from the dealership.
Did you cut the filter to see if the HPL is removing carbonaceous deposits?
You can tell by the moly level that the HPL is diluted by the previous oil. When you run consecutive HPL changes the additive concentrations will go up and it will retain TBN like nobody's business.
You can tell by the moly level that the HPL is diluted by the previous oil. When you run consecutive HPL changes the additive concentrations will go up and it will retain TBN like nobody's business.
Here is a good thread on filter comparisons (for tacomas) and one of the reasons I use toyota filters exclusively.
Toyota Oil Filter (Made in Thailand) vs. the competition........
What do you get for your money? Fram is a cheap filter.....The extra gaurd is $3.54 at Wallyworld (out here), while the Tough Gaurd is $5.96....
www.tacomaworld.com
I started a thread about that and posted pictures, I found some metal flakes, but after much discussion, they're not of concern and it's normal. The filter had very very little deposits. But I was running Schaeffers prior to this, and the PO of the truck ran Toyota oil every 5k. So the engine is pretty clean I believe.
Ah, Any chance you'd run the Toyota TRD filter to see if anything changes.
It looks about the same as my previous filters I've cut open running Schaeffers. I need to get a boroscope to look at the internals, just out of curiosity. I beat the chit out if this truck.
I haven't. There has been alot of speculation about the TRD filters, but no definitive evidence that they are better at filtering the the regular OEM. Not worth the cost IMO.
One possible problem with Fumoto is that a crucial bit of oil is not drained out.
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- Jul 11, 2014
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Online cut open filter comparisons mean nothing. TRD filter is synthetic media. Whether you need the expense or not if for you to decide, like with any synth media. If you want to learn how good or pathetic your oil filter is, get a particle count analysis next time.
This HPL oil did an excellent job. It is an HDEO and is not lacking additives or viscosity.... good stout oil. Definitely giving Redline, RoyalPurple, Amsoil, Torco, MPT, Driven..... a run for the money.
This HPL oil did an excellent job. It is an HDEO and is not lacking additives or viscosity.... good stout oil. Definitely giving Redline, RoyalPurple, Amsoil, Torco, MPT, Driven..... a run for the money.
I
Have full skid plates, that's why I went with fumoto, makes oil changes much much easier. Just attach a hose and turn the valve. A couple of oz leftover shouldn't hurt anything.
No one has done a direct comparison between the two. The oem filter is more than adequate. It's what the million mile tundra used, and what lots of higher mileage tundras use, toyota is the most reliable brand for a reason. I honestly doubt it makes a big difference in these engines though, they're not picky.
I'm really happy with the oil. I think I'm gonna go 15k with it. I'm at 10k right now.
Yes. Yes. My small point had to do with the accuracy of future UOAs. I have used that HPL HDEO formula too. The boat load of calcium should keep your engine clean.
Ahhh I gotcha. I just installed it whenever I changed over to HPL. I guess I could use a mighty-vac or something to get any residual oil out.
I believe this engine is pretty darn clean already, Schaeffers has lot of calcium too, and I've ran that for the past 60k miles. But with the added esters and other goodies of HPL, I'm looking forward to it cleaning anything that may have been left behind.
Just got some HPL 20w50 in for my brand new mower too, gonna start it off on the right foot with great oil
